got a 99 lude just wondering what everyone thinks should give best power for the buck.

 

a cai if your on a tight budget.

how much are you looking to spend would be appropiate to include with this question. best bang for the buck is subjective to price limitations in my book.

 

I recently bought an 01 Lude, if your goin NA the , intake,headers, exhaust is where to start.From there it's personal pref on whats next.Otherwise, turbo is the best bang for the buck that I can find.Can't wait to start on mine! I will also doing alot of susp mods to my car to get GREAT handling,LUV the corners!! What all do you have in mind and is $$ an object currently? $$ to do all we want is usually the issue. My $$$ trees keep dyin', tooo much watering I guess. Good luck.

 

you need to put some kind of a number that you are willing to spend...and what kind of power

 

Well said! Budget is the ultimate problem with any project.

 

$500. i wanna stay away from I/H/E.

 

NITROUS!

You'll not even come close w/ any other mod as far as bang for the buck goes....and you have just enough money for a good kit!

 

NOS. nah. im not into that much of a 'blowing the motor' risk.

 

There is no more cost-effective mod than nitrous. 60-70 whp for around $500 is a real bargain, especially by FI standards.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Elkins911 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NOS. nah. im not into that much of a 'blowing the motor' risk.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're a little paranoid and worried about blowing the motor with nitrous, use the correct shot for your application and/or get either the Venom VCN -2000 kit (far more expensive though, more than twice the price). It monitors your a/f ratio and will cut itself off if you run lean, before you start blowing **** up.

 

yup yup,, NOS is best for the money, but you might get pissed when u have to keep refillin ur tank -_-)b

 

whats the unit of measurment for nos? lbs????
how much $ per lbs?

 

Nos is the best bang for buck power adder, But the down side that
ruins it for me. Is you only have that extra power when your bottle is
actualy in the car.

 

It goes by lbs. it runs around $4 per lb. to refill a 10lb bottle

Take the red pill ............join the dark side.........Juice it.

 

Just be smart about using it and you have nothing to worry about. Check the plugs and check compression often. Only spray for ~10 sec's at a time and let it cool off for about 15 min's between runs. Use a WOT microswitch and get a RPM switch as a safety net. Nitrous has a bad rep b/c the little ricers that just bolt 'em on their cars and go w/ no knowledge on using it, then blow their motors a week later.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J01SH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It goes by lbs. it runs around $4 per lb. to refill a 10lb bottle

Take the red pill ............join the dark side.........Juice it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow $4? That kinda sucks. I pay $3 per lb.

 

my opinion is if you have some hook-ups, buy a clutch and flywheel, or just the flywheels, but get the lightest flwheel you can buy, will easily take a second off almost any car. put a 9 lb one on my LS integra with i/h/e, and beat a awd talon turbo (stock) 3 times in a row in the 1/4

if not, get cam gears, unorthadox racing pullies, hondata gasket (call landspeed raceing and ask, they will tell you , and tune the motor

other than that, internals or head work

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Elkins911 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$500 budget... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Geez, start reading everything you can find. You're not going to get a solution for $500, especially since you've already shot down the obvious answers. You REALLY need to save some more money before starting in on this stuff.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BUCKO5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my opinion is if you have some hook-ups, buy a clutch and flywheel, or just the flywheels, but get the lightest flwheel you can buy</TD></TR></TABLE>
If he's short on cash he'll definitely need a hook-up. Installation on a flywheel can cost as much/more than the part itself...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if not, get cam gears ($140-ish), unorthodox racing pullies (full set of 3 {c/ps/alt}: $265), hondata gasket (call landspeed racing and ask, they will tell you) ($60; got mine from KS-Motorsport yesterday)</TD></TR></TABLE>
The 3 of those together are relatively cheap, but really won't net you much at the wheels.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and tune the motor</TD></TR></TABLE>
Kinda unclear here. Are you referring to the cam gears or fuel management or what?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">other than that, internals or head work</TD></TR></TABLE>
Internals don't make hp, they prepare you for more hp, and head work is expensive; if it wasn't, I'd have that P&P TB, IM, and head by now.

 

Thanks for ideas.......Lol i can afford more than 500......i allready got aem intake, nology wires, and denso iridium plugs iwas just looking for what everyone thought was the best for the buck...Thanks

 

lol...ya got nology wires and denso iridium's, but now you want to know what's the best bang for the buck....hehe, just a bit funny to me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol...ya got nology wires and denso iridium's, but now you want to know what's the best bang for the buck....hehe, just a bit funny to me</TD></TR></TABLE>
That was soooo COLD dude. I wanted some HotWires but they were too damned expensive...so I just got some Hot Wings instead. P

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Final Flash &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That was soooo COLD dude. I wanted some HotWires but they were too damned expensive...so I just got some Hot Wings instead. P </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think this guy knows much about bang for the buck. Look at all his Mugen crap lol... J/p


Modified by PoweredByPrelude at 10:19 AM 6/19/2003

 

hahaha. i love how i didnt start this thread, but its all about me now....
'and god said, thread jacking is fun'

 

you should get nitrous but get a compression check and leakdown first. If its good then buy the kit then you have to as a precaution cause with any forced induction the more you do to it the better it is. Like upgrading your fuel ,timing,and yes i/h/e is better to for better flow so the engine can breathe then you have to learn how to drive with the nitrous on. Beware a 50 shot will have you like wow the power the first time i tired it i felt like super man but after i blew it upin the shot and didnt have enough fuel and leaned out . I felt like i got hit with a huge damn piece of kryptonite.

 

i think a clutch might be a good way to go to keep it simple. A friend of mine just got a new clutch for his GS-R and the car is pulling like crazy. of course driving his car is a work out, but chirping from 2 --&gt; 3 is a completely foreign feeling to me being that i've always driven hondas It's not "cheap" but it'll make a big difference. Also i would get a shorter gears but that's $$$ too...

I'm trying to keep my engine as close to stock as possible so outside of I/H/E i think transmission/suspension work would be my solution for making my lude even funner to drive.