eagle rods vs gsr rods in weight
The Eagle rods weigh around 525 +/- 5 grams
I'm guessing that thr GSR rods weigh about 400 grams?? This is really just a wild guess, I could be WAY off.
I'm guessing that thr GSR rods weigh about 400 grams?? This is really just a wild guess, I could be WAY off.
On a set of ITR rods I have, they were 547g, 548g, 551g, and 551g.
The rods still had the bolts pressed in, with nuts. But, they lacked bearings and the small-end's bushing.
GS-R's rod are supposedly heavier than the ITR rods. I'll have to see tho when I pull the rods from one of our two cars.
The rods still had the bolts pressed in, with nuts. But, they lacked bearings and the small-end's bushing.
GS-R's rod are supposedly heavier than the ITR rods. I'll have to see tho when I pull the rods from one of our two cars.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1320in11 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">gsr's are prolly stronger too
</TD></TR></TABLE>
GSR rods stronger than Eagles? That's pretty ignorant.
</TD></TR></TABLE>GSR rods stronger than Eagles? That's pretty ignorant.
with that said, is it safe to say a complete eagle rod is lighter than a gsr rod by more than 25g since gsr rods are heavier than type r rods?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1320in11 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">gsr's are prolly stronger too
</TD></TR></TABLE>
mooooahahahahahaha
</TD></TR></TABLE>mooooahahahahahaha
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1320in11 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was being sarcastic, duh, i ony use saenz, and eagle are junk so
to u
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then saenz must be junk too.Both companies use the same china forging.
to u
</TD></TR></TABLE>Then saenz must be junk too.Both companies use the same china forging.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1320in11 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was being sarcastic, duh, i ony use saenz, and eagle are junk so
to u
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Eagle are not junk.
to u
</TD></TR></TABLE>Eagle are not junk.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by anlia »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Saens NOT made in China , they are made in Argentina , If I wasn't wrong.
Eagle forging was made in China .
God Bless U</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok,i could be wrong,but a while back i inquired about them to a distributor on them and they told me saenz uses the same steel forging eagle uses.They are just machined here in the states.I do know however that steel forgings from china are very good.
Eagle forging was made in China .
God Bless U</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok,i could be wrong,but a while back i inquired about them to a distributor on them and they told me saenz uses the same steel forging eagle uses.They are just machined here in the states.I do know however that steel forgings from china are very good.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aeolus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ok,i could be wrong,but a while back i inquired about them to a distributor on them and they told me saenz uses the same steel forging eagle uses.They are just machined here in the states.I do know however that steel forgings from china are very good.</TD></TR></TABLE>
damn u are so knowledgeable, actually 2 different types that saenz have and we use the Titanium for the race car. Oh by the way these rods are the best, ask steph what he runs in his 1500hp nsx motor. I think itss....Saenz. Damn he does
http://www.aempower.com/pdf/RWDSpecs2.pdf
ohh i forgot to mention that Adams NSX runs those too. Damn but im sure ur eagles can hold more power then what these two cars are putting down.
and if ur reply is there prolly custom made, then your even a bigger moron, there all custom, but then again im sure when if you were to look at the design sheet which i fill out every time i order rods you wouldnt know what the hell your looking at.
AND EAGLES ARE JUNK. no one said they cant take the power its just an issue of how long.
Modified by 1320in11 at 7:05 AM 6/20/2003
Modified by 1320in11 at 7:11 AM 6/20/2003
ok,i could be wrong,but a while back i inquired about them to a distributor on them and they told me saenz uses the same steel forging eagle uses.They are just machined here in the states.I do know however that steel forgings from china are very good.</TD></TR></TABLE>
damn u are so knowledgeable, actually 2 different types that saenz have and we use the Titanium for the race car. Oh by the way these rods are the best, ask steph what he runs in his 1500hp nsx motor. I think itss....Saenz. Damn he does
http://www.aempower.com/pdf/RWDSpecs2.pdf
ohh i forgot to mention that Adams NSX runs those too. Damn but im sure ur eagles can hold more power then what these two cars are putting down.
and if ur reply is there prolly custom made, then your even a bigger moron, there all custom, but then again im sure when if you were to look at the design sheet which i fill out every time i order rods you wouldnt know what the hell your looking at.
AND EAGLES ARE JUNK. no one said they cant take the power its just an issue of how long.
Modified by 1320in11 at 7:05 AM 6/20/2003
Modified by 1320in11 at 7:11 AM 6/20/2003
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phantomcivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK, a little bit of fact is needed here. I respect everyone for their opinions.
I am a pretty silent member on H-T, but this is one of the few posts I will make.
My name is Alan, I am in charge of the import program at Eagle.
That's right, I work at Eagle.
Here is a few things to think about:
We have dyno sheets from Jojo (who did a lot of testing for us in the early days) of 783 HP at the flywheel on Eagle rods - STANDARD Eagle rods. I guess that's about 700 at the wheels - who knows. They won't hold much more than that - they're not designed to. For anyone making that much power we recommend our optional upgraded bolt - which is about 36% stronger. It is an ARP "Custom Age 625" bolt. It has a 245kpsi tensile strength vs. a 180 kpsi for the ARP2000. We have seen this combo to over 950 at the flywheel. It is also a 5/16" bolt.
We have sold a little over 900 sets of Honda rods in the past year. I have had exactly 4 sent back to me with failures. In EVERY case, the rod bolts were either overtightened or undertightened. They torque to 28 ft-lbs with the supplied ARP moly assembly lube. Not 33, not 25, and not with motor oil, and not dry. Follow the instructions! If you come up with your own torque figure or lubrication on the threads - I GUARANTEE they will break. Well, probably. I have had calls from shops (who I won't mention) that call me and say "I broke a bolt during assembly". I ask, "what did you torque them to?". One guy said "35 ft-lbs, like the factory bolts"....... NO! This is a well-respected engine builder!!! The torque on the bolt is VERY important - it sets the preload of the bolt, and is vital to proper strength.
Also, We were in contact with Jojo's team immediately after that failure happened (for obvious reasons). We were told the rod DID NOT CAUSE THE FAILURE - another part of the assembly (which will remain nameless to protect other manufacturers) failed. Seeing a hole in the block only tells you something failed. Who's to say a valve wasn't dropped and crashed into the piston causing failure? Or a wrist pin didn't break? or a piston didn't fail? or it spun a rod bearing- heating everything up and causing it to fail?
Also, Crower's econo-billet rod is not a "reworked Eagle rod". It is not "made at the same factory Eagles are made at". But, under their own admission, is not to be used at higher boost levels than 12 psi.
People are scared of our rods because of the price. We forge our rods in big quantities - to save cost. We use a proprietary 4340 chromoly steel. All rods are visually inspected, X-rayed, magnafluxed, sonic-tested, shot-peened, and machined with only the best equipment available. Custom rods have to be CNC'd one at a time. This is costly. Crower, Pauter, Manley are all good rods - but I have seen them fail too. No product anyone produces is completely immune to failure. That is racing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
700WHP for $300 sounds like a good deal to me. 950 with a rod bolt upgrade.
I am a pretty silent member on H-T, but this is one of the few posts I will make.
My name is Alan, I am in charge of the import program at Eagle.
That's right, I work at Eagle.
Here is a few things to think about:
We have dyno sheets from Jojo (who did a lot of testing for us in the early days) of 783 HP at the flywheel on Eagle rods - STANDARD Eagle rods. I guess that's about 700 at the wheels - who knows. They won't hold much more than that - they're not designed to. For anyone making that much power we recommend our optional upgraded bolt - which is about 36% stronger. It is an ARP "Custom Age 625" bolt. It has a 245kpsi tensile strength vs. a 180 kpsi for the ARP2000. We have seen this combo to over 950 at the flywheel. It is also a 5/16" bolt.
We have sold a little over 900 sets of Honda rods in the past year. I have had exactly 4 sent back to me with failures. In EVERY case, the rod bolts were either overtightened or undertightened. They torque to 28 ft-lbs with the supplied ARP moly assembly lube. Not 33, not 25, and not with motor oil, and not dry. Follow the instructions! If you come up with your own torque figure or lubrication on the threads - I GUARANTEE they will break. Well, probably. I have had calls from shops (who I won't mention) that call me and say "I broke a bolt during assembly". I ask, "what did you torque them to?". One guy said "35 ft-lbs, like the factory bolts"....... NO! This is a well-respected engine builder!!! The torque on the bolt is VERY important - it sets the preload of the bolt, and is vital to proper strength.
Also, We were in contact with Jojo's team immediately after that failure happened (for obvious reasons). We were told the rod DID NOT CAUSE THE FAILURE - another part of the assembly (which will remain nameless to protect other manufacturers) failed. Seeing a hole in the block only tells you something failed. Who's to say a valve wasn't dropped and crashed into the piston causing failure? Or a wrist pin didn't break? or a piston didn't fail? or it spun a rod bearing- heating everything up and causing it to fail?
Also, Crower's econo-billet rod is not a "reworked Eagle rod". It is not "made at the same factory Eagles are made at". But, under their own admission, is not to be used at higher boost levels than 12 psi.
People are scared of our rods because of the price. We forge our rods in big quantities - to save cost. We use a proprietary 4340 chromoly steel. All rods are visually inspected, X-rayed, magnafluxed, sonic-tested, shot-peened, and machined with only the best equipment available. Custom rods have to be CNC'd one at a time. This is costly. Crower, Pauter, Manley are all good rods - but I have seen them fail too. No product anyone produces is completely immune to failure. That is racing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
700WHP for $300 sounds like a good deal to me. 950 with a rod bolt upgrade.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Quote, originally posted by Phantomcivic »
OK, a little bit of fact is needed here. I respect everyone for their opinions.
I am a pretty silent member on H-T, but this is one of the few posts I will make.
My name is Alan, I am in charge of the import program at Eagle.
That's right, I work at Eagle.
Here is a few things to think about:
We have dyno sheets from Jojo (who did a lot of testing for us in the early days) of 783 HP at the flywheel on Eagle rods - STANDARD Eagle rods. I guess that's about 700 at the wheels - who knows. They won't hold much more than that - they're not designed to. For anyone making that much power we recommend our optional upgraded bolt - which is about 36% stronger. It is an ARP "Custom Age 625" bolt. It has a 245kpsi tensile strength vs. a 180 kpsi for the ARP2000. We have seen this combo to over 950 at the flywheel. It is also a 5/16" bolt.
We have sold a little over 900 sets of Honda rods in the past year. I have had exactly 4 sent back to me with failures. In EVERY case, the rod bolts were either overtightened or undertightened. They torque to 28 ft-lbs with the supplied ARP moly assembly lube. Not 33, not 25, and not with motor oil, and not dry. Follow the instructions! If you come up with your own torque figure or lubrication on the threads - I GUARANTEE they will break. Well, probably. I have had calls from shops (who I won't mention) that call me and say "I broke a bolt during assembly". I ask, "what did you torque them to?". One guy said "35 ft-lbs, like the factory bolts"....... NO! This is a well-respected engine builder!!! The torque on the bolt is VERY important - it sets the preload of the bolt, and is vital to proper strength.
Also, We were in contact with Jojo's team immediately after that failure happened (for obvious reasons). We were told the rod DID NOT CAUSE THE FAILURE - another part of the assembly (which will remain nameless to protect other manufacturers) failed. Seeing a hole in the block only tells you something failed. Who's to say a valve wasn't dropped and crashed into the piston causing failure? Or a wrist pin didn't break? or a piston didn't fail? or it spun a rod bearing- heating everything up and causing it to fail?
Also, Crower's econo-billet rod is not a "reworked Eagle rod". It is not "made at the same factory Eagles are made at". But, under their own admission, is not to be used at higher boost levels than 12 psi.
People are scared of our rods because of the price. We forge our rods in big quantities - to save cost. We use a proprietary 4340 chromoly steel. All rods are visually inspected, X-rayed, magnafluxed, sonic-tested, shot-peened, and machined with only the best equipment available. Custom rods have to be CNC'd one at a time. This is costly. Crower, Pauter, Manley are all good rods - but I have seen them fail too. No product anyone produces is completely immune to failure. That is racing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha spanked
OK, a little bit of fact is needed here. I respect everyone for their opinions.
I am a pretty silent member on H-T, but this is one of the few posts I will make.
My name is Alan, I am in charge of the import program at Eagle.
That's right, I work at Eagle.
Here is a few things to think about:
We have dyno sheets from Jojo (who did a lot of testing for us in the early days) of 783 HP at the flywheel on Eagle rods - STANDARD Eagle rods. I guess that's about 700 at the wheels - who knows. They won't hold much more than that - they're not designed to. For anyone making that much power we recommend our optional upgraded bolt - which is about 36% stronger. It is an ARP "Custom Age 625" bolt. It has a 245kpsi tensile strength vs. a 180 kpsi for the ARP2000. We have seen this combo to over 950 at the flywheel. It is also a 5/16" bolt.
We have sold a little over 900 sets of Honda rods in the past year. I have had exactly 4 sent back to me with failures. In EVERY case, the rod bolts were either overtightened or undertightened. They torque to 28 ft-lbs with the supplied ARP moly assembly lube. Not 33, not 25, and not with motor oil, and not dry. Follow the instructions! If you come up with your own torque figure or lubrication on the threads - I GUARANTEE they will break. Well, probably. I have had calls from shops (who I won't mention) that call me and say "I broke a bolt during assembly". I ask, "what did you torque them to?". One guy said "35 ft-lbs, like the factory bolts"....... NO! This is a well-respected engine builder!!! The torque on the bolt is VERY important - it sets the preload of the bolt, and is vital to proper strength.
Also, We were in contact with Jojo's team immediately after that failure happened (for obvious reasons). We were told the rod DID NOT CAUSE THE FAILURE - another part of the assembly (which will remain nameless to protect other manufacturers) failed. Seeing a hole in the block only tells you something failed. Who's to say a valve wasn't dropped and crashed into the piston causing failure? Or a wrist pin didn't break? or a piston didn't fail? or it spun a rod bearing- heating everything up and causing it to fail?
Also, Crower's econo-billet rod is not a "reworked Eagle rod". It is not "made at the same factory Eagles are made at". But, under their own admission, is not to be used at higher boost levels than 12 psi.
People are scared of our rods because of the price. We forge our rods in big quantities - to save cost. We use a proprietary 4340 chromoly steel. All rods are visually inspected, X-rayed, magnafluxed, sonic-tested, shot-peened, and machined with only the best equipment available. Custom rods have to be CNC'd one at a time. This is costly. Crower, Pauter, Manley are all good rods - but I have seen them fail too. No product anyone produces is completely immune to failure. That is racing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha spanked
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
700WHP for $300 sounds like a good deal to me. 950 with a rod bolt upgrade.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
that sounds good to me
700WHP for $300 sounds like a good deal to me. 950 with a rod bolt upgrade.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
that sounds good to me
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