Well I recently buffer polished my car and used the yellow wax hi tech 26 from meguiars and then a turtle wax carnuba wax on top, the paint still had the roughness to it, how can I get it out. BTW try blue majic polish for the metal(raw/chrome) and automajic for rubber(gives a nice shine but isn't like armorall that gives it an eyesore shine. How can you get scratches out of leather, it's from my 4Runner.

I was also wondering what are the different colors in my Desert Dune pearl in my 4Runner. I know there's a pearl white when I look at it in a lighted dark area at a parking lot, there's silver, beighe and what other color pigments does it have.

Where can I also get the best touch up paint, don't say the dealer because their touchup paint for my truck doesn't even blend in it's not even pearlized or tinted

 

try to claybar your car before you wax next time but after you wash it, it'll remove the built up crap that's stuck to the paint over the years and it'll make your paint as smooth as a babies butt

 

Like others have said, clay is your friend. All that buffering and layering is not going to matter much if the surface is contaminated with crap that need to be shaved off. Without a clean surface, it's hard to make any wax stick.

 

whats the order?

1.wash
2.clay bar
3. wax?

i never used a clay bar

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91hatchcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats the order?

1.wash
2.clay bar
3. wax?

i never used a clay bar</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. Wash
2. Clay
3. Wash
4. Wax

P.S. When using clay, hold it tight. Drop it, and you are toast, cause it will pick up dirt from the ground. Usiing it will be like grinding sand into your paint. Therefore cut the clay up into smaller pieces, and clear wrap the un-used portion. I also make my own lube with dish washing soap and water in a spray bottle.

 

where does the lube come into play?

 

You have the order correct.

I recently had my car detailed. The car was compounded, polished, the waxed lightly.

I was told to wax it again to help maintain the new finish.
Light coats only and stay away from the edges and rubber areas.

I have photos of my wash/claybar/wax and waxing here:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=536554


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91hatchcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats the order?

1.wash
2.clay bar
3. wax?

i never used a clay bar</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91hatchcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where does the lube come into play?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Clay is like the clay you play with in school. In order to slide it across with paint surface, without scratching, it needs lube. Lube helps it glide over nice and easy. Mother's Clay- for example, use a Qucik Detailer as lube. That thing is not slick enough.

It's just like shaving in the morning. You use shaving cream before you drag the blade across your face right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GoLowDrew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's just like shaving in the morning. You use shaving cream before you drag the blade across your face right? </TD></TR></TABLE>

acutally i just use an electric and dont need shaving cream

so you spray the lube on, then rub the clay bar, then wash again, then wax?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91hatchcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so you spray the lube on, then rub the clay bar, then wash again, then wax?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct. Clay breaks down as you rub, so you'll be left with "mud." You'll need to wash again before you wax. Soap and water is free, so use lots of lube.

 

tip... dont let the clay residue sit too long after you work on an area. wipe it off with a clean cloth.

Work in small sections that is out of direct sunlight for best results.

 

i heard you dont usually need to clay the whole car, just the front? is this true?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91hatchcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i heard you dont usually need to clay the whole car, just the front? is this true?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Crap fall from top to bottom. Brake dust are sharp contaminants that goes from the bottom up. Spend the time to clay the entire car. Do it once, do it right. Later, you can pick and choose. Let's not forget about exhaust too. So there's crap all over the place coming from all directions.

I like to start at the hood, roof, trunk with the fresh clay. Then from front to back. When the clay is all dirty, then I'll do the bottom of the car, and bumpers to pick up the heavy stuff. I do this so I don't pick up and grind the heavy stuff back on top like the hood, where shine is very important.

 

What about the plastic fender flares and the chrome bumpers

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neuspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about the plastic fender flares and the chrome bumpers</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you got chrome bumpers, it must be old school. I like and have been using Chrome Polish, I think it's by Turtle Wax. It's (was) in a round metal green & white can. My current bottle lasted 5 years so far.

I use it at home too for chrome fixtures. The only thing with Chrome Polish is that it's strong stuff and does the job well. Use it when you need to, but not everyday kind of stuff.

The chrome job on today's wheels and trim are ****** compare to the old days. I would use nothing more than cleaner wax when I need to.

 

For the Chrome I use blue magic the best stuff, strong as hell though.

 

clay magic and a coat of zymol