When I try to screw the castle nut on, the ball joint spins. I know it is not supposed to, but a tech at Honda told me its not that big of a deal. Anyone know any tricks to tighten the nut? Thanx.

 

Take some thin wire, run it through the hole in the bottom of the bolt and pull it down and wrap it around itself counterclockwise. Slide the nut on the bolt with the wires running through the nut. Grab some vice grips and clamp on the wires and twist them again counterclockwise(because your going to tighten the nut turning clockwise) While holding the vice grips tighten the nut, you should be able to keep the bolt from spinning and when it gets on tight you untwist the wires and pull it out. Badda bing, and dont forget the cotter pin.

 

or, put a jack under your control arm to put pressure on it. This is a little easier than the wire trick.

 

Or, slide the stud out, and wipe all the grease and ol off it, and stick a rag through the hole, and clean the grease out of the hole.

 

I tried supporting the lca w/ a jack, but it didn't work. The castle nut is stuck to where I cannot put a piece of wire through the holes.

I'm not sure what you mean by sticking a rag through the hole.

Is it possible to safely drive the car about 15-20 miles with the bolt not tightened?

Any additional help would be great.

 

I wouldn't drive 1 mile without that catle nut tightened.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maztur &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't drive 1 mile without that catle nut tightened.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats what I was thinking, but it never hurts to ask!

I have been working on my suspension for a while now, and this one castle nut is the only thing I need to do before it is complete. Getting pissed...

 

I have heard of one technique from a friend...he said to put pressure on it while u are tightening it (so if you are lying on ur back, push upwards) and he said that usually works. He also mentioned that if the ball joint is spinning, its worn out.

 

I don't think mine is tight.

but I drove 200+ miles NO PROBLEMS

 

I finally got it on. Crossed six lanes on traffic to go to Pep Boys and bought a C-clamp. C-clamped the radius rod to the axle. It's ghetto but it worked.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hartlage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I finally got it on. Crossed six lanes on traffic to go to Pep Boys and bought a C-clamp. C-clamped the radius rod to the axle. It's ghetto but it worked.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are so ghetto.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blah13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take some thin wire, run it through the hole in the bottom of the bolt and pull it down and wrap it around itself counterclockwise. Slide the nut on the bolt with the wires running through the nut. Grab some vice grips and clamp on the wires and twist them again counterclockwise(because your going to tighten the nut turning clockwise) While holding the vice grips tighten the nut, you should be able to keep the bolt from spinning and when it gets on tight you untwist the wires and pull it out. Badda bing, and dont forget the cotter pin.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've been trying to picture this all morning and I still can't

 

I tried this just before I used the C-clamp and I think it would have actually worked if I had a piece of wire that was stronger and could still pass in between the castle nut and the bolt. The wire I was using was very thin and broke shortly after I started screwing the castle nut on.

 

or next time use an electric or air impact gun