b18a vs b18b???????????????
i plan on swapping this into a crx. so what im trying to find out is if i will be at any disadvantage with a b18a swap vs a b18b?
and i do plan on doing a turbo on the stock motor
and i do plan on doing a turbo on the stock motor
b18b will (obviously) yield higher numbers, but there is no downside to a b18a, if u tune it properly at 1 psi higher it will produce higher numbers than the same b18b 1 psi less... if tha made sense
-ryan
-ryan
the b18a's cams are a little more aggressive than the b18b. the b18a's intake cam has a little higher lift. as for the b18b's exhaust cam has higher lift than the b18a's exhaust cam.
it might be the other way around...
it might be the other way around...
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxjake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so the bottom ends are the same?</TD></TR></TABLE>
pretty much the same.
pretty much the same.
either way most b18a have high mileage than b18b
and you will find a lot of people that dont want them and have them
as paper weight in their garage so be carefull when you shop.
and you will find a lot of people that dont want them and have them
as paper weight in their garage so be carefull when you shop.
lots of misinformation in this thread.
heads are thes same.
intake manifold/exhaust manifold are different.
bottom end is the same (essentially).
cams are different as mentioned, its VERY subtle and IMHO is worth maybe 2 hp.
intakes are different.
I have a b18a with a b18b intake manifold, i had the bottom end rebuilt so milage didnt mean jack to me, there was no sense in paying the extra few hundred for a b18b.
heads are thes same.
intake manifold/exhaust manifold are different.
bottom end is the same (essentially).
cams are different as mentioned, its VERY subtle and IMHO is worth maybe 2 hp.
intakes are different.
I have a b18a with a b18b intake manifold, i had the bottom end rebuilt so milage didnt mean jack to me, there was no sense in paying the extra few hundred for a b18b.
94 gold is correct..
basic diffs already mentioned,...
cams,
intake manifold
also all b18b's are obd's where as the b18a was a non obd. the difference is the ecu's also made a slight difference.... 94+ tegs (b18b's) use hydro trannys,
90-93 (b18a's) use cable trannys
basic diffs already mentioned,...
cams,
intake manifold
also all b18b's are obd's where as the b18a was a non obd. the difference is the ecu's also made a slight difference.... 94+ tegs (b18b's) use hydro trannys,
90-93 (b18a's) use cable trannys
the b18b will hold stock around 8-10 pounds of boost stock..but yea its basically the b18a is the 90-93 ls motors, and the b18b is the 94 and up ls motors..newer ones have a lil more hp and torque but tahts to be expected...the b18a will only hold iunno somethin like 5-8 or so pounds of boost stock..
plus the heads on the b18b is slighty better flowing. i swapped a b18b into my 91 teg. besides the difference in sensors, intake manifold and internals its the same. if you could get a b18b then thats what i would go with.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxjake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if there almost the same then why will a b18a not hold as much boost as a b18b??????????</TD></TR></TABLE>
milage, age, plus the older blocks werent as strong as the newer ones.
milage, age, plus the older blocks werent as strong as the newer ones.
ok well ive got a 90 teg but it doesnt have the original eng in it, but its still a b18a1. Is there a way of telling if the eng is a 90-91 or 92-93 w/out taking it to the dyno? Jst curious how much h/p exactly i have and what boost ima be able to push later on. ty
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BaLLinTeGrA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok well ive got a 90 teg but it doesnt have the original eng in it, but its still a b18a1. Is there a way of telling if the eng is a 90-91 or 92-93 w/out taking it to the dyno? Jst curious how much h/p exactly i have and what boost ima be able to push later on. ty</TD></TR></TABLE>
get the engine number and go to a acura dealer....
thats pretty much the only way to tell.... i dont know how to measure cam lift so thats how i would find out..
get the engine number and go to a acura dealer....
thats pretty much the only way to tell.... i dont know how to measure cam lift so thats how i would find out..
arent they both(90-91 and 92-93) 9.2:1?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbob18a1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">90 teg b18a1 has a lower comp. ratio so it is better for boosting. you can argue all you want but i have the paperwork to prove it!</TD></TR></TABLE>
can u be specific and state how much lower the CR is?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbob18a1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">90 teg b18a1 has a lower comp. ratio so it is better for boosting. you can argue all you want but i have the paperwork to prove it!</TD></TR></TABLE>
can u be specific and state how much lower the CR is?
Holy crap, call me crazy, but there's a TON of false information floating around about these motors. I've had my B18A1 for a year or two now, but let me tell you what I've heard from the gurus around here to be true and what I can tell you from experience:
-B18A1 was used 90-93, and B18B1 from 94+. B18A1 from 90-91 was OBD-0 and boasted 130hp@6000 & 121tq@5000. B18A1 from 92-93 was OBD-1 and packed 140hp@6300 and 126tq@5000. Then, B18B1 was thrown in as replacement from 94-95, still at 140hp@6300, but with 128tq@5200. The B18B1 became OBD-2 from 95+, still at same power ratings. Numbers were obtained from http://www.team-integra.net.
-Compression ratio is 9.2:1 across all B18A/B motors.
-There is hardly any visual distiction between the two (cept. valve cover, manifold I believe, and small details such as those)
-Trannys have identical ratios with the exception of 5th gear (0.714 in B18B1 compared to 0.742 in the B18A1). 90-93 Tegs used cable-actuated transmissions, and 94+ used hydralic-actuated transmissions. Other differences in the transmissions are negligible.
-The fact that the B18B1 lasts longer or holds more boost than the A1 is ridiculous: they are the same motor. Pistons, rods, crank, block, and manifold are all functionally identical. I hear the head has a slight difference between B18A1 and B18B1, but the difference is negligible and not large enough to choose either motor over the other.
-B18A1's will last just as long as B18B1's will last, however finding a lower mileage B18A1 is more difficult. However, properly rebuilding a worn-down B18A1 will result in a motor identical or better performing than a used B18B1 counterpart.
-Everything (or just about) is interchangable between the two motors. Sensors, harnesses (same OBD generation, only), and parts bolt onto both motors.
-The motors, for all intensive purposes, ARE THE SAME after 91.
If it wasn't already clear, I think this covers it. All the details were found at http://www.team-integra.net. When it comes to choosing one motor over another for boost, pick the one with lower miles that's been properly maintained. Run a leak-down and/or compression test to see if you should run it. Rebuilding is fairly cheap, very straight forward, and doesn't take long at all with the proper manual next to you. OBD1 is more beneficial for your application and will work to your advantage later if you decide to add Hondata or modify the ECU (that means OBD1 B18A1 OR OBD1 B18B1). Keep in mind that the car receiving a swap MUST use a transmission that's actuated the same way (ie. cable -> cable, hydralic -> hydralic, no mixing an 88 CRX with a B18B1's hydralic transmission). Cable to hydralic conversion kits are available (Place Racing, I believe, makes them), but they are expensive and are difficult to install.
... think I got it all...
-B18A1 was used 90-93, and B18B1 from 94+. B18A1 from 90-91 was OBD-0 and boasted 130hp@6000 & 121tq@5000. B18A1 from 92-93 was OBD-1 and packed 140hp@6300 and 126tq@5000. Then, B18B1 was thrown in as replacement from 94-95, still at 140hp@6300, but with 128tq@5200. The B18B1 became OBD-2 from 95+, still at same power ratings. Numbers were obtained from http://www.team-integra.net.
-Compression ratio is 9.2:1 across all B18A/B motors.
-There is hardly any visual distiction between the two (cept. valve cover, manifold I believe, and small details such as those)
-Trannys have identical ratios with the exception of 5th gear (0.714 in B18B1 compared to 0.742 in the B18A1). 90-93 Tegs used cable-actuated transmissions, and 94+ used hydralic-actuated transmissions. Other differences in the transmissions are negligible.
-The fact that the B18B1 lasts longer or holds more boost than the A1 is ridiculous: they are the same motor. Pistons, rods, crank, block, and manifold are all functionally identical. I hear the head has a slight difference between B18A1 and B18B1, but the difference is negligible and not large enough to choose either motor over the other.
-B18A1's will last just as long as B18B1's will last, however finding a lower mileage B18A1 is more difficult. However, properly rebuilding a worn-down B18A1 will result in a motor identical or better performing than a used B18B1 counterpart.
-Everything (or just about) is interchangable between the two motors. Sensors, harnesses (same OBD generation, only), and parts bolt onto both motors.
-The motors, for all intensive purposes, ARE THE SAME after 91.
If it wasn't already clear, I think this covers it. All the details were found at http://www.team-integra.net. When it comes to choosing one motor over another for boost, pick the one with lower miles that's been properly maintained. Run a leak-down and/or compression test to see if you should run it. Rebuilding is fairly cheap, very straight forward, and doesn't take long at all with the proper manual next to you. OBD1 is more beneficial for your application and will work to your advantage later if you decide to add Hondata or modify the ECU (that means OBD1 B18A1 OR OBD1 B18B1). Keep in mind that the car receiving a swap MUST use a transmission that's actuated the same way (ie. cable -> cable, hydralic -> hydralic, no mixing an 88 CRX with a B18B1's hydralic transmission). Cable to hydralic conversion kits are available (Place Racing, I believe, makes them), but they are expensive and are difficult to install.
... think I got it all...
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