Battery re route???
I have an h22 in a 91 Crx Dx....I dont wish to put the battery in the hatch...too much hastles...I want to leave the battery in the engine compartment...where is the best place to position it?
I heard of Dyno Batt...they are 1/2 the size of a regular Battery....but they are 140 bucks..I am trying to save $$$
I heard of Dyno Batt...they are 1/2 the size of a regular Battery....but they are 140 bucks..I am trying to save $$$
what makes you think its so much of a hassle? it will actually lighten the front and help proportion the weight. i have no probs w/mine and its been in there for 3 years! it really opens up engine bay for easier access! btw i did mine in 1hour tops
how many cranking amps did you loose by re locating to the hatch...I heard that there is an air quality breathing issue by having it in the car with you...I dont want to spend loads of $$ doing this...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Racer613 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how many cranking amps did you loose by re locating to the hatch...I heard that there is an air quality breathing issue by having it in the car with you...I dont want to spend loads of $$ doing this...</TD></TR></TABLE>
You wont loose any amps if you use thicker cable to run the wire from the rear to the front. I used 1+ or +1 welding cable which comes out to being like 0 or 2 gauge sterio wire but it also saved me $4.05 cents a foot!! The sterio place wanted $5 bucks a foot the welding shop wanted $.95 per foot and your not going to have a problem using it since welders draw more current than any amp or car would ever draw.
As for air quality yes this is true if you use a non-sealed battery like the stock one or something but you can get an Optima sealed battery and use that and you will be just fine.
As for a total price I am not sure yet?? I payed about $20 for the cable (bought 20' enough for power and ground) and I paid $15 for a distribution block. I still need a battery box and the battery. But i also had extra wire loom and wire connectors laying around so I didnt have to buy those either.
You wont loose any amps if you use thicker cable to run the wire from the rear to the front. I used 1+ or +1 welding cable which comes out to being like 0 or 2 gauge sterio wire but it also saved me $4.05 cents a foot!! The sterio place wanted $5 bucks a foot the welding shop wanted $.95 per foot and your not going to have a problem using it since welders draw more current than any amp or car would ever draw.
As for air quality yes this is true if you use a non-sealed battery like the stock one or something but you can get an Optima sealed battery and use that and you will be just fine.
As for a total price I am not sure yet?? I payed about $20 for the cable (bought 20' enough for power and ground) and I paid $15 for a distribution block. I still need a battery box and the battery. But i also had extra wire loom and wire connectors laying around so I didnt have to buy those either.
The battery re-route is easy and space saving, plus it makes ur motor bay look a whole hell of a lot cleaner. I have a 91 hatch and a Moroso battery box. Relocated to the rear, with a breather line for the battery fumes to excape out of the box and out of the car. The relocation is simple if done right. Just disconnect the batter, re-ground the tranny to the body, re-route the starter wire into your accesory in your underhood fuse box, and run the thick line from that box to your battery, making sure to get a nice solid ground against the body and your set...goodluck...
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pyro_freak8
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Jan 8, 2004 02:27 PM




