i am currently building a N/A b16 and i want to use the skunk 2 flat faced valves to up the compression a little more. i just wanted to know if any of you guys out there have used these or if there is another flat faced valve that might be more sufficient than the skunk 2's, and what valve guides work with what valves the best with the least amount of wearing. just trying to get a few opinions before i blow more cash on my hoopty. all and any information is welcomed.

 

get either rev or supertech

the both offer flat face and are better quality than the skunk2

edit: after more research. rev flat faced valves are supertech

and i think skunk2 just get them from supertech as well.

i vote honda valves now or manley until I find more info....


Modified by Bob-DC2 at 7:05 PM 6/28/2003

 

(REV) im me for info

 

skunk2 valves are made with poor quality. i actually know shops that carry everything skunk2 makes besides thier valves bc they dont like the quality they are made with. id go with somthing else

 

OEM; ITR intake. Stock valves bend, aftermarkets break.... less detremental in the end if something happens. if you want compression, get pistons or a thinner headgasget....

nick

 

go with the stock b16 valves all the b series exhaust valves r the same.
the type r valves r .5 grams liter then the b16 but u would be surprised to hear the b16 intake valves flow better then the itr valve

as long as the pistons dont come into contact with the valves u will never bend or break the stock stuff.

you will be amazed if u asked around how many fast guys still use the stock valves.
p.s the back cutted type r intake valve does not help flow what so ever. you will save a bunch of money i rather spend it on head work

 

the reason that i want the flat top valves is because when i match my combustion chambers with the 85mm bore of my block i dont want to lose any compression, so what imsaying is that i want the high compression valves to make up for the loss of deshrouding my combustion chambers. i just want to know what valves are good and which ones arn't. thanks for all the info people have already given

 

I've seen a few broken stock valves before, what happens is the heads fall of a kills yhe motor. Stainless Steel valves like REV valves wont brake. I've broken timing belts,broke cams but never broke a REV valves.

 

is rev valves light weight too? is there any light weight valves similar to type r valves?

 

I'm running Endyn's flat back and very happy with it

 

I got REV on my exhaust side and planning to put ITR Intake valves..


QUESTION, whats is the ups and down when using oversize valves

 

REV's prolly lighter then Type-R.

 

i was wondering if any of you guys had information on jg valves, if they are good or not

 

factory valves are nice for the price, pretty damn strong if you get them shotpeened and baked

 

REV SS intake and exhaust here for 2+ years. No problems with them at all. I will use REV in my next motor too.
I ended up with the REV after my stock ITR ones started not sealing. The REVs have seen a little more mileage and much more abuse.

Jason

 

the supertech/skunk2 valves mushroom at the top because when they are used with a aftermarket Ti retainer that are designed to use the stock keeper, which is a cheap stamped steal piece and the valve will start to pull through the retainer as far as I know Ferrea is also the only company that offers a Ti retainer that Cannot be used with the stock keeper, the forge there own and are used also with a spring locater that is also way better than the stock one. I also don't like the design of some of these valves because on the exhaust side they have a sharp edge unlike the ferrea valve that has a rolled edge-which would help flow. Problem is I don't think they make a valve with the flat bottom, which is what you were looking for but I would make a sacrifice in compression for a gain in relability and more airflow.

 

I using .5 oversized DPR valves. They're stainless steel with a swirl polish design. No complaints from me

 

DPR uses a Ferrea valve

 

Dpr also usess si stainless valves . I know this for a fact. Well at least his older valves.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HEAD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the supertech/skunk2 valves mushroom at the top because when they are used with a aftermarket Ti retainer that are designed to use the stock keeper, which is a cheap stamped steal piece and the valve will start to pull through the retainer as far as I know Ferrea is also the only company that offers a Ti retainer that Cannot be used with the stock keeper, the forge there own and are used also with a spring locater that is also way better than the stock one. I also don't like the design of some of these valves because on the exhaust side they have a sharp edge unlike the ferrea valve that has a rolled edge-which would help flow. Problem is I don't think they make a valve with the flat bottom, which is what you were looking for but I would make a sacrifice in compression for a gain in relability and more airflow.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
what do you think about type r valves?

 

how much do the skunk valves weigh versus the stock ITR's. Anyone know?

 

why wouldnt you just go with higher compression pistons if you building the bottom end anyway??? besides, flat face valve give you only .04 comp gain at best, wouldnt make much difference anyway...

 

he had to decide whether to go 13:1 or 14:1, and since this is his daily driver he opted for the 13:1 since good gas is hard to get around here so he's looking for any little extra compression that he can get out of it over the 13:1.