steering rack rebuild worth it??
I'm in the process of doing mine, and I believe it's worth it.
Look at it this wayyou can either spend a hundred or more for a remanufactured rack. Or you can spen over 300 for a new one.
Or (my choice) spend about 30 bucks for all the stuff you need to rebuild yours.
Seems like an easy choice to me
Look at it this wayyou can either spend a hundred or more for a remanufactured rack. Or you can spen over 300 for a new one.
Or (my choice) spend about 30 bucks for all the stuff you need to rebuild yours.
Seems like an easy choice to me
there's a Honda dealership somewhere in Texas (someone posted the link before) that had an OE 88-91 civic/crx steering rack complete listed for ~$150-170.
someone post the link back up. i need to save it this time!
someone post the link back up. i need to save it this time!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCracer723 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it worth it? motor is out easy access to it. wut yall think?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Isnt still easy access with the motor in? Dont you just remove the lower header pipe and cat, pop off the tie rods and un bolt the 4 or 6 bolts to the rack and drop it? I think its easier to just buy a remanufactored one since you get new tie rods as well and its not much more
Isnt still easy access with the motor in? Dont you just remove the lower header pipe and cat, pop off the tie rods and un bolt the 4 or 6 bolts to the rack and drop it? I think its easier to just buy a remanufactored one since you get new tie rods as well and its not much more
really u get new tie rods?? cuz im missing mine.. yeah i got quoted about 90 bux for a re manufactured 1. does it sound good?? with core of course
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PoonHunter »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Isnt still easy access with the motor in? Dont you just remove the lower header pipe and cat, pop off the tie rods and un bolt the 4 or 6 bolts to the rack and drop it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah that is pretty much it except there is one bolt under the dash that holds the steering column to the rack.
yeah that is pretty much it except there is one bolt under the dash that holds the steering column to the rack.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by keithv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yeah that is pretty much it except there is one bolt under the dash that holds the steering column to the rack.</TD></TR></TABLE>
but is it worth it? besides the fact that my car is 15 years old. I don't have much play in the steering, but it does follow ruts in the road like glue....if that makes any sence.
yeah that is pretty much it except there is one bolt under the dash that holds the steering column to the rack.</TD></TR></TABLE>
but is it worth it? besides the fact that my car is 15 years old. I don't have much play in the steering, but it does follow ruts in the road like glue....if that makes any sence.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16_madman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but it does follow ruts in the road like glue....if that makes any sence.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's your tires, not the steering.
</TD></TR></TABLE>that's your tires, not the steering.
Does anyone know the dealer that sold OE racks for only $150-170? I need one also, and I'd much rather buy OEM than a reman from autozone or advance.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PoonHunter »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Isnt still easy access with the motor in? Dont you just remove the lower header pipe and cat, pop off the tie rods and un bolt the 4 or 6 bolts to the rack and drop it? I think its easier to just buy a remanufactored one since you get new tie rods as well and its not much more</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't forget about removing your shift linkage from your transmission and you will need a "Punch" to knock out the cotter pin. AFter you drop your cat and lingages the rack will then fall down. In most cases you will need a "ball joint seperator".
Don't forget about removing your shift linkage from your transmission and you will need a "Punch" to knock out the cotter pin. AFter you drop your cat and lingages the rack will then fall down. In most cases you will need a "ball joint seperator".
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