the ones that go from the fuel tank to the engine bay...

it looks like my main line that goes from the pump to the fuel filter (or somewhere around there) is leaking. i need to fix it and i'm assuming i need to replace the entire line. is there a way to fix it without replacing it? that would save a ton of time.

if not, how hard was it to replace the line?

thanks.

 

You could always find the leak cut it and then use high pressure fitting on the ends to connect the gap. I dont know if I would want to deal with replacing the whole line that might be quite the project but well if you have the time and want to drive the half hour to work on your car!! You might just have to flare each end where you cut it and add in a little piece (kind of like a brake line) but I know there are other methods as well like you might even be able to add fitting on each end (without flaring them) and then attach them with some high pressure tubing. I would go to the parts store and see what they have for fitting just make sure you know how thick your line is (dont remember off the top of my head?) Where is it leaking BTW? In the front?

 

His leak is in the rear of the car. The line comes off the tank and right before it goes up through into the car thats where the leak is.

It's in a tricky place and if he were to just change that portion, as you said, I think it would be quite a little project in itself.

 

the problem with replacing the line is dropping the tank, trying to remove the line from the 2-way valve, and having to remove what's left of my heater. since my car is really stripped for racing, the dash is out and half of the heater. i just need to pull the main control unit for the heater, so there isn't too much work left. i am just worried that i might strip the line going into the 2 way valve since its being a real PITA to remove. oh and the 2-way valve is $91 vs $43 for the (3) fuel feed lines...

i am also thinking of using some steel braided hose instead. i just need to make sure the fittings i get match into the stock parts (fuel pump, fuel filter, etc.). if i go that route i might actually be able to fix the car this weekend (but that is the last of my concerns right now).

 

well i am going with SS line from the fuel pump to the fuel filter. i'll try to do a write-up on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by keithv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i am going with SS line from the fuel pump to the fuel filter. i'll try to do a write-up on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That would be something I'd like to see.

 

I am doing that very thing right now.
i am using a fuel cell in the back and an MSD external fuel pump.
I am using AN-8 for fuel feed and AN-6 for fuel return.
For SS braided hose you will need:
straight hose end (2) I'd recomend AN-8 that's 1/2" ID hose.
Now you need to go from AN to barbed hose end, you can go the expensive route and buy Earl's or Aeroquip (that's what I am using) barbed hose fitting to AN.
Or you could go to the hardware store and buy a couple of adaptors to turn from An to barbed. I am at work , but as soon as I get home I'll post a few pics about it.

 

i am going with this (hope it works):

fuel filter &gt;&gt; banjo fitting to hose end &gt;&gt; -6an hose &gt;&gt; banjo fitting to hose end &gt;&gt; fuel pump

 

so here are some pics of my replacement fuel line. sorry i didn't take more, but this job was a TON of work so i didn't have lots of time to take pics.

one end of hose:


the other end:
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....DE%3D

the line installed:
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....DE%3D
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....DE%3D

line on the fuel filter (dark pics, sorry):
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....DE%3D
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....DE%3D

if anyone has questions, let me know.

 

here is some updated info on what i used...

i used (2) banjo to hose end fittings $22.99 ea.

http://store.summitracing.com/...M1070

and about 12 feet of -6AN hose $65.95

http://store.summitracing.com/...A0615

if anyone has questions, just IM me.

 

UPDATE

I just bought a similar setup: here what I used,

20 feet, -6AN fuel Line from Earl's : priced at 205,79$ canadian
2 Aeroquip fitting Banjo 12 mm bolt with 1.25 tread patern: priced at 79.66 for two.
total cost taged @ 285.45$ CDN
just want to share for canadian buddy, all part's available Via Keystone speciality product.

see ya
Kranked

 

I sell complete fuel line kits using -6AN lines from stock filter to any aftermarket (AEM, Golden Eagle, Inline Pro, STR, Venom and etc) and machined stock fuel rail.
I provide the service to machined the rail as well and can give you a core for stock rail.

IM me if you are interested

stan
stan@fast-turbo.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flamenco-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I sell complete fuel line kits using -6AN lines from stock filter to any aftermarket (AEM, Golden Eagle, Inline Pro, STR, Venom and etc) and machined stock fuel rail.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah but that is the easy part of the fuel line.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by keithv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah but that is the easy part of the fuel line. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I can do compelte lines change as well, from tank or fuel cell to the rail and regulator. MOst of my cust only purchase from the filter, to rail and regulator. BUt I can do whatever setup you have. Even sump

stan

 

is there any pro's/con's of going w/ just the hoses from like kragen instead of the braided lines?
I'm starting to do the fuel set up on my cvcc and want to go w/ an economical solution

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1st-hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">His leak is in the rear of the car. The line comes off the tank and right before it goes up through into the car thats where the leak is.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Right before it enters the car there is a fitting junction. I am replacing the line from that connection to the fuel tank (or wrather from the fuel tank to that connection)...anyway, I was wondering if anyone knew the size/thread pitch of that connection (I would be ordering the female connector).

Thanks,
Jesse R

 

I ended up making my own banjo to An fittings.
Here are a couple of pics, I replaced all the lines, including the return line.

 

spaceballs, what brand banjo fitting is that? the aeroquip ones i used look different.

also, does that banjo fitting fit in the litte U-bracket the stock fuel filter has? if so, it looks like that brand of banjo fitting is better to use than the aeroquip ones.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by keithv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">spaceballs, what brand banjo fitting is that? the aeroquip ones i used look different. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The brand is Honda.
I used the OEM banjo fittings. Put them on the milling machine, drilled them and tapped them to 1/4 NPT thread.
Then I bought a 1/4 NPT to AN6 adapter. I did that on the fuel filter and the fuel rail
so the fitting was like OEM.

I used anodizing paint, so they look like something you'd buy.

 

look sweet,
I got fuel leak with my aéroquip, I might just doo that, that look sweet and the circular banjo are less prone to leak...
the crush washer aéroquip just gave with their fitting is pure f*cking ****....
thos are so thin you can bend them jus by looking at them...

i'll do it your way Spaceball's
do you got any part's number and compagni of the fitting you bought ??
Kranked.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kranked91dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the crush washer aéroquip just gave with their fitting is pure f*cking ****....
thos are so thin you can bend them jus by looking at them... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I ended up re-using the stock crush washer. The Aeroquip ones are just way too thin.

 

I bought a new aftermarket fuel filter and it came with brass washers.
I had a &#%#$@ leak at the filter and I thought it was dirt or the bolts were not torqued enough. It turned out to be the aftermarket brass wahers. I did some trash can diving, retreived my old honda washers and voila! problem solved.

One thing I ended up doing, was reversing the fuel filter. So the U brackets that hold the banjo in place don't get in the way.

 

Hi there! Just a quick follow-up to see if you can help me out. It appears that I have the same problem you had with your fuel line. The exposed line on my 1985 CRXsi is corroded through and leaking. I was hoping to avoid replacing the entire line and was hoping you could share with me how you fixed you leak in terms of parts and design. I'd like to just replace the leaking line with either a high pressure line or braided stainless steel line. I thought about using flared fittings as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ms01ds &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hi there! Just a quick follow-up to see if you can help me out. It appears that I have the same problem you had with your fuel line. The exposed line on my 1985 CRXsi is corroded through and leaking. I was hoping to avoid replacing the entire line and was hoping you could share with me how you fixed you leak in terms of parts and design. I'd like to just replace the leaking line with either a high pressure line or braided stainless steel line. I thought about using flared fittings as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Everything I used should be listed in this post. If you have specific questions, let me know.

 

Thanks. I've been out of town lately, but I'm thinking a fabricating a small section of the line and using flare fittings for the connections.