I have a 97 prelude and I'm blowin a little white smoke very time i shift in the upper RPMs, so i figure either valve seals or head gasket, but either way i have a little over $1000 saved up for a body kit that im not going to buy now, instead im gonna beef up the engine for a big fat shot of nitrous. What all do i need to replace, im gonna start with the entire fuel system, (pump,rails,injectors) and ignition(coil, distributor, plugs, wires) so in addition to these what am i gonna need. i'd appreciate it, thanks.

 

before you put nawZ on your car you should fix whatever is wrong with it. if you don't have your car in good working order, your just asking for problems if you use the unit.

 

compression check.

 

its expensive to succeed in show and go. Btw wwhat kind of kit did you have.

 

The VTEC ludes ive seen around here usually let out a puff of smoke when racing...seems normal to me. For a nice shot of nitrous, don't worry about fuel; everything stock will work fine. Go w/ a wet set; if you want some extra safety, you can upgrade the stock fuel pump, but the stocker's good for up to a 100 shot. Best thing you can do is get forged pistons and rods. For no more than a 100 shot, you could be cheaper and pull the rods/pistons and get the pistons and rods cryo'd and the rods shotpeened; it will help to strengthen the stock rods a bit more.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zerocool00101001 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 97 prelude and I'm blowin a little white smoke very time i shift in the upper RPMs, so i figure either valve seals or head gasket, .</TD></TR></TABLE>

Mine does that usually when i hit vtec, i hope it doesnt mean there is something wrong, its been doing it since i got it.

 

its doing it because all hondas come rich from the factory, and the prelude comes really rich from the factory. but white smoke? i dunno. and if you want to have forged pistons you have to get the motor re-sleeved do to th material honda used on the prelude;FRM-fibre reinforced material or something like that. and it wont allow the use of aftermarket pistons wtihout re-sleeveing htem.

 

and for the question about doing a 75-100 shot. you HAVE to get a wet kit, dry kits only go up to 75 shot due to safety reasons.i would get a VAFC to make your fuel map more rich, injectors, and if you really wanna be on the safe side, a fully built motor.

edit:spelling

 

A 75 shot can be done with colder plugs, and a MSD ingnition. A stock engine can probably handle a 100 shot for a while, but not near as proven as a 75 shot. On a build motor, 150-175 shots no problem. Includes forged pistons, rods, sleeves, prodrive oil pump, and a few other miscellanious items. To keep drive shafts and axles from snapping, a limited slip differential is a must. Its about 5k to have an engine built for 150 shot, so if you really dont want to spend that kind of money, stick with a 75 or less, a 75 shot can get you into the 13's.

 

yes, a wet set is a must, but you won't need a VAFC for on-the-bottle tuning; to run richer on the bottle, you just run a bigger jet. The VAFC would only be good for a dry set or n/a tuning off the bottle.

 

why is a wet set better than dry?
just to clear things up in my head all i need to do with 75 shot: is get colder plugs, msd ign. with stock internals and it will be ok.
if you run a 50 will that be better, and your motor will be killed as fast?

 

wet is safer, yes thats all you need, and 50 would be safer, but it'll still kill your engine depending on how much you use it.

 

i heard that you need non platium plugs so should you use iridium plugs. how do you get a colder set i'm not that muchinto plugs and how to get colder ones. like different gap or something

 

If you dont know, what/how/ or to get colder plugs, you should leave the NAWS alone.
Can I get a AMEN..

 

ummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm your gay hence this is a tech board hence why i asked a damn question i could do whatever i want to my motor and not give a damn how it works. i know how most stuff works just never looked into plugs sorry i don't know how to get colder plugs i know how to read them and also how to gap them just no the colder thing cuz i don't see in any cat a plug saying its 2 deg colder or something.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sslude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wet is safer, yes thats all you need, and 50 would be safer, but it'll still kill your engine depending on how much you use it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A wet kit is definitely safer and a 50 shot would be safe also, but nitrous doesnt kill your engine. If you dont take the proper safety precautions and do regular maintenance it can, but it isnt some kind of poisonous gas you are using that will put your car into an early grave.

 

when you say regular mant. you mean regular oil changes, timeing belt etc. right?
and the only way to kill your motor wuld be if you use it at every red light you hit, or every time you give it right?

 

you need to check your plugs regularly...i've been told that you should check them after every squeeze of the bottle. i'm not spraying so i can't talk from personal appearance

 

personal appearance....lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AREJAY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you say regular mant. you mean regular oil changes, timeing belt etc. right?
and the only way to kill your motor wuld be if you use it at every red light you hit, or every time you give it right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well that too, but I was mainly talking about checking your plugs after spraying, monitoring fuel pressure, etc. Using nitrous WONT kill your motor no matter how much you use it as long as you continue to make sure everything is in good working order. Nitrous will only cause problems you already have to become bigger. For ex. you need to do a compression test before installing N2O. Lets say your numbers are 210 210 210 175. If you decide to use N2O anyway even though your #4 cylinder is has low compression nitrous will cause that problem to become worse. Just make sure you do everything the right way and you wont have any problems.