How to properly flush the brake system?
I'm replacing the stock brake fluid with Motul 600. What's the correct way to remove the old fluid from the lines?
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From: First in Flight, Type Rs of East Coast, NC, FL
Snap-On makes some damn tool that will force flush everything from the master cylinder out. One brake caliper at a time, till you see clear fluid. Personally I would just take the new fluid, and put it into the system and flush it unitl I see it at each wheel. I think the sequence is RR, LF, RR, RF....I would check on that though.
After reading the HELMS I used a turket baster to pull all of the fluid out of the Master Cylinder, the poured in new fluid, and bled each side(in the correct order) until I had new fluid coming out of the caliper. As a precaution I went back and rebled each corner in the correct order to make sure that there weren't any bubbles that managed to make their way into the system.
Austin
EDIT - now that I read it, my comment about looking it up in the HELMS manual could be taken incorrectly...it was meant to show that I had an idea that I kinda knew what I was talking about
Modified by Austin at 4:02 PM 2/2/2004
Austin
EDIT - now that I read it, my comment about looking it up in the HELMS manual could be taken incorrectly...it was meant to show that I had an idea that I kinda knew what I was talking about

Modified by Austin at 4:02 PM 2/2/2004
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Austin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After reading the HELMS I used a turket baster to pull all of the fluid out of the Master Cylinder, the poured in new fluid, and bled each side(in the correct order) until I had new fluid coming out of the caliper. As a precaution I went back and rebled each corner in the correct order to make sure that there weren't any bubbles that managed to make their way into the system.
Austin</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've done it this way also. Very effective and easy.
Austin</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've done it this way also. Very effective and easy.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I've done it this way also. Very effective and easy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ditto, and with the addition of speedbleeders, it was even easier. I know some people have had problems with them but I've had them for quite a while and no problems here at all
I've done it this way also. Very effective and easy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ditto, and with the addition of speedbleeders, it was even easier. I know some people have had problems with them but I've had them for quite a while and no problems here at all
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Austin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After reading the HELMS I used a turket baster to pull all of the fluid out of the Master Cylinder, the poured in new fluid, and bled each side(in the correct order) until I had new fluid coming out of the caliper. As a precaution I went back and rebled each corner in the correct order to make sure that there weren't any bubbles that managed to make their way into the system.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Same process I use, however this is my best firend when it comes to brake bleeds/flushes.

http://www.motiveproducts.com/index.htm
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Same process I use, however this is my best firend when it comes to brake bleeds/flushes.
http://www.motiveproducts.com/index.htm
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and remember. crescent wrenches are your friend when it comes to bleeding brake/clutch lines. they are worth the money so you dont strip the nut or whatever it is called.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by canuckr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's cool!
First time I see a tool like this. So, this one works by air pressure instead of air vaccum?
What about the brake pedal, do you live it alone or keep it depressed?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's cool!
First time I see a tool like this. So, this one works by air pressure instead of air vaccum?
What about the brake pedal, do you live it alone or keep it depressed?
i don't know if that is the same thing my buddy used when we put in Motul 600, but it was connected to an air compressor. he first sucked all the fluid out of the reservoir. then, filled it with the new stuff. went to each caliper and connected the tool, opened the valve and sucked out the fluid. then, he closed the valve, went to the brake pedal, and pumped to get pressure back. he repeated this on every wheel and it took about 10-15 minutes.
oh, he made sure to keep a n eye on the reservoir level.
oh, he made sure to keep a n eye on the reservoir level.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nightrider »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't know if that is the same thing my buddy used when we put in Motul 600, but it was connected to an air compressor. he first sucked all the fluid out of the reservoir. then, filled it with the new stuff. went to each caliper and connected the tool, opened the valve and sucked out the fluid. then, he closed the valve, went to the brake pedal, and pumped to get pressure back. he repeated this on every wheel and it took about 10-15 minutes.
oh, he made sure to keep a n eye on the reservoir level.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're thinking of a vaccula.
As for that motive power bleeder, how do you like it? Does it really end up saving you a lot of time??
oh, he made sure to keep a n eye on the reservoir level.
</TD></TR></TABLE>You're thinking of a vaccula.
As for that motive power bleeder, how do you like it? Does it really end up saving you a lot of time??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baonest »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and remember. crescent wrenches are your friend when it comes to bleeding brake/clutch lines. they are worth the money so you dont strip the nut or whatever it is called. </TD></TR></TABLE>
sarcasim for those of you who didn't notice!!!!
sarcasim for those of you who didn't notice!!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by py1188 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As for that motive power bleeder, how do you like it? Does it really end up saving you a lot of time??</TD></TR></TABLE>
It saves you a whole lot of time if you don't have a helper. It can be a serious PITA, however, if you attempt to follow their directions. The biggest problem is that our cars use their "universal" adaptor, which doesn't make the greatest seal. So if you actually follow their directions, and put the fresh fluid in the tank of the Motive bleeder itself and attempt to pump it up to 20 PSI, you can end up with brake fluid all over the place.
The good news is that it still works at very low PSI, and you can just put the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir rather than in the tank of the Motive. Last time I flushed my fluid I just used 5 PSI (since that's all the piece of crap would hold) and opened all 4 bleeders at once rather than one at a time. Worked just fine. Had to fill the reservoir three or four times while bleeding (though the last time was just to be sure), and then topped off at the end. In total I used a little less than a liter of new fluid for a very complete flush.
As somebody else mentioned, using a turkey baster to suck the old fluid out of the reservoir before starting will save you some time.
This approach should work fine as long as you don't have any air in the system. If you think you might have air in the system, then you should definitely find a helper and use the Helms approach. The Helms approach is the only way I've found that consistently works to get air out of the system.
It saves you a whole lot of time if you don't have a helper. It can be a serious PITA, however, if you attempt to follow their directions. The biggest problem is that our cars use their "universal" adaptor, which doesn't make the greatest seal. So if you actually follow their directions, and put the fresh fluid in the tank of the Motive bleeder itself and attempt to pump it up to 20 PSI, you can end up with brake fluid all over the place.
The good news is that it still works at very low PSI, and you can just put the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir rather than in the tank of the Motive. Last time I flushed my fluid I just used 5 PSI (since that's all the piece of crap would hold) and opened all 4 bleeders at once rather than one at a time. Worked just fine. Had to fill the reservoir three or four times while bleeding (though the last time was just to be sure), and then topped off at the end. In total I used a little less than a liter of new fluid for a very complete flush.
As somebody else mentioned, using a turkey baster to suck the old fluid out of the reservoir before starting will save you some time.
This approach should work fine as long as you don't have any air in the system. If you think you might have air in the system, then you should definitely find a helper and use the Helms approach. The Helms approach is the only way I've found that consistently works to get air out of the system.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can ask a 100 people and get 100 answers
ive tried it many ways and found this to be the best for me
all four wheels off
on four jackstands
start the car, ebrake down
I use this sequence
passegner rear
driver front
driver rear
passenger front
have someone pump the brake
push the pedal down 80%
you do not want to depress completely as it will damage the MC
open the bleed valve
close bleed valve
let off brakes
push brakes
open valve
close valve
let off brakes
and repeat until no air comes out
do all four wheels, making sure that the MC is always full, if it goes empty...u just introduced air into the system
also pump up the brakes maybe 8-10 times between doing each caliper to build pressure
you should use a whole bottle when doing a complete flush
the first caliper will take the longest to do, will require the most pumps</TD></TR></TABLE>
you don't have to do it my way, just found that it works best for me, and has worked very well for other people as well
ive tried it many ways and found this to be the best for me
all four wheels off
on four jackstands
start the car, ebrake down
I use this sequence
passegner rear
driver front
driver rear
passenger front
have someone pump the brake
push the pedal down 80%
you do not want to depress completely as it will damage the MC
open the bleed valve
close bleed valve
let off brakes
push brakes
open valve
close valve
let off brakes
and repeat until no air comes out
do all four wheels, making sure that the MC is always full, if it goes empty...u just introduced air into the system
also pump up the brakes maybe 8-10 times between doing each caliper to build pressure
you should use a whole bottle when doing a complete flush
the first caliper will take the longest to do, will require the most pumps</TD></TR></TABLE>
you don't have to do it my way, just found that it works best for me, and has worked very well for other people as well
I have a vaccum pump that I use... it works well. i like it. except last time I overtightened my bleeder bolt and it kept turning.. I didn't back it out, and its still there.. I'm actually kinda scared to..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
sarcasim for those of you who didn't notice!!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
lol. maybe i should of stated that. i hope no one actualy does it. thos PIA nuts. ill take a breaker bar to them.
sarcasim for those of you who didn't notice!!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
lol. maybe i should of stated that. i hope no one actualy does it. thos PIA nuts. ill take a breaker bar to them.
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