I've had nothing but problems with my Holley 190 lph Fuel Pump (part # 12-917 94-98 Integra), since I got it about a year ago. Right now it's in my CRX tank which I'm using on my Civic. The problem is, no matter how I mount it and install it, it always seems to struggle for gas when I'm braking or going down a hill, usually when I have half a tank of gas left. Originally, I was using the strainer that came with the pump, but I found that it sits too high in the gas, so I flipped the pump backwards, and that worked until I got down to about half a tank full.

So, I went out and bought a CRX Si strainer, and compared it to the placement of my stock Civic fuel pump in the other gas tank. I positioned them the same and installed the tank, but still, even though I have 3/4 of a tank of gas, I can hear it making funny noises when I brake or go down a hill. Is this normal? I don't see why it would be sucking air, because it is in the same position as the stock one would be! Raene has the same fuel pump with no problems! I don't know what to do anymore.... I'm temped to throw my Stock D15B2 pump back in... would the D15 pump be sufficient for my B16A?? Anyone else running this pump? Any ideas?

 

Well here's my set-up. I'm running boost and was origninally going to run a 255 intank pump. Then I found out I had to re-wire crap with bigger gage wire because the stock wire harness is only ment to see 5 amps and the 255 pushes up to 15 amps which could fry or melt the stock wire which is why you have to re-wire it. With the inline set-up I have it 's own source and the way it's wired it won't effect the stock harness. Now I have heard and read about poeple having to make custom brackets or bend the stock ones to make the pump work like stock. I'm using my stock pump now with the inline andI'm going to switch it out soon for a teg. just cause of the age of the pump and I want something alittle better that can be run inline with my Bosche but won't effect the stock harness. Try looking around and see if you see any articles about having to ben the bracket. I'll look to see if I can find it where I saw it.

 

Thanks for the insight... anyone else?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Raene has the same fuel pump with no problems! I don't know what to do anymore.... I'm temped to throw my Stock D15B2 pump back in... would the D15 pump be sufficient for my B16A?? Anyone else running this pump? Any ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think the D15 pump would work just fine, but remember it's a 15-year old pump... yecch

I really wonder why my pump works so well and yours sucks so bad...

 

How much wireing is required when you put in the new pump so you dont fry the wires???

Blaze

 

The d15 pump will be just fine.

 

I never even thought to change the wires. I've been running stock wires for something like a year now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The d15 pump will be just fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So it'll put out 38 psi... what my stock B16 FPR sets fuel pressure at&gt; Till what psi do you think it'll be good for?

 

Not sure about how high of fuel pressure you can go with the hf fuel pump, but it will be just fine for the b16. If your gonna up the pressure later on just upgrade the pump to.

 

ahh well technically it's a DX pump!

 

I figure that the problem might be that the CRX strainer is a little loose on the pump (I could wiggle it a bit, but I didn't think it would be a problem at the time.

Here's what I'm gonna do: Take my Civic tank and sintall the Holley pump with the Civic strainer on it, and position it exactly the same as the stock pump was positioned!

 

I had the same problem when i did my swap, only i used an out of tank pump on my original tank. I was fillin' up every other day and it was doin my head in, i couldn't do any long journeys or anything. Added to this, if an injection pump draws air then its probably already knackered as they rely on the fuel as a lubricant and to dissipate the heat produced, especially on high performance ones. So i came up with a solution. I decided on a swirl pot/header tank to gravity feed the injection pump and another, carburettor pump to feed the header tank, as these can cope with drawing air without failing(and it would also not effect performace). I drilled and tapped the vent hole on the top of the swirl pot for the return from the fuel rail and ran new, stainless overbraid lines. All the parts were made in america i think(facet, walbro, systec etc). The result is a massive, de-airated, ever-reliable fuel supply that can be used right down to the bottom of the tank(even if the pumps are a bit noisy). The injection pump hasn't drawn air for a fraction of a second since. It was an expensive way of doing it but probably one of the best. Photos: (dunno if this will work) [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]

 

stockwires and walbro 255...running it for over two years now
works just fine.

 

Hmm interesting idea, UK CIVIC B16A2... but I don't think that if the pump draws air it's going to instantly die... I've been driving with it jury rigged for a year now, and it used to suck air sometimes, it hasn't died yet!

I emailed Holley tech support, and the guy suggested that maybe the problem is that the strainer is crushed against the bottom of the tank, preventing some fuel from getting in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonny Black &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stockwires and walbro 255...running it for over two years now
works just fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm interesting idea, UK CIVIC B16A2... but I don't think that if the pump draws air it's going to instantly die... I've been driving with it jury rigged for a year now, and it used to suck air sometimes, it hasn't died yet!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

It maybe woulnt die straight away, but u may find its outright performance has been reduced. they get noisy when on their way out. Speaking from experience here. Might be an idea to check the lockout pressure sometime...

 

Well, here's an update.

Last night, I pulled the tank, reinstalled the ruber piece that goes underneath the ful pump, and put it back together. Primed the pump; nothing. Turns out the ground wire fell off the pump!!!

So I pulled it again this morning, redid the wire, and pu it back together. It primed fine, and it seems to be much much quieter now than before. I checked the pressure, it was at 38 psi (by my B&M guage). I took it for a spin, and braked fast, went down hills, etc, and as far as I could tell it seemed to be doing ok. I'm at half a tank now, so I'll keep driving it and see what happens. So far so good.

 

Has anyone ever taked the stock pump to the limit? I know rewiring the stock pump with 10 gauge wire (straight to the battery) , independent relay, and inline 30 amp fuse will help most pump more than you think. Don't forget a thick ground too. I am wondering because the civic pump flows 55 GPH...that is a good bit. If you convert it to LPH it is 207 LPH. Now that is more than the civic needs and that could be a reason that honda reduced the amperage( or voltage?) to 5. Imagine the pump at full power. I got my info from Airtex fuel pumps. I run a B20 with my stock civic pump and have never had a problem with fuel pressure dropping under WOT or shown any lean conditions on my wideband.