Well, a few of you guys have asked me how I did my CAI, so I thought I'd post the how-to. Sorry about the lack of pics though, my camera ran out of battery juice... Welp, I'll just copy-paste from another forum I frequent.

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Finally decided to post up my DIY intake thread. It was really easy. You don't even need to jack up the car.

Pros:
1) The whole thing costs $10. You can get the parts at Home Depot.

2) Sleeper bling! You won't even know it's there unless you look under the airbox.

Cons:
1) Haven't been pulled over yet, so I really have no idea if it's legal or not...lol

Materials you'll need:
1) 3" dryer hose
2) duct tape
3) zip ties


(don't mind that elbow adapter thingie... I didn't need it anyway)

Let's begin!

Note: You can do this without having to jack up the car, but jacking it up does make it a lot easier because you can see better.

First, you must remove the front bumper, bumper support, corner lamps and about half of the clips holding up the front right inner fender liner. Take out the corner lamps first, then unplug the light bulbs and go from there. Sorry I didn't take any pics, but it's not that hard. 9 bolts holding up the bumper suppport, 2 bolts on each side holding the top of the bumper, 2 bolts underneath, one bolt on either side of the inner fender, and that's it.

Next, remove the resonator (1 bolt on top, 2 on the bottom).

I'm sure you're all familiar with a CAI design. Run the dryer hose from the bottom hole of the airbox to behind the front bumper.



This is where it's necessary to unclip half of the inner fender liner. Also, if the dryer hose is too long...cut it! To secure the other end of the hose, you can zip tie it to the bottom hole of your corner lamp or one of the many holes behind the bumper. Notice that I taped the filter end of the hose to the airbox just to keep it snug. Dryer hose is nice since it's flexible and stretchable, huh?

Guess what? You're done! Just plug up the fender liner, put the front bumper and corner lights back on, and replace the air filter and top half of the airbox. Neato!

Sorry, no pics of the finished product...hehe. Basically all you'll see is the airbox with a little hint of silver from the dryer hose peeking out. Hell you could spray paint the dryer hose black too for the uber sleeper look!

Butt dyno:
This thing r0x0rz! It sounds like stock when idling and cruising, but roars when you floor it, especially in VTEC! It ******* rips!

for a job well done!

Drive safe and stay cool guys!

~ Dom

P.S. All I need now is a K&N drop-in filter to complete the setup. w00t!

P.S.S. Oh yeah, I also duct taped the opening of the dryer hose by the bumper so that the lip is smooth. Don't want bits and pieces of that stuff going around the airbox!

 

I prefer BSQ's DIY Icebox, which can also be done for about $10 in materials. It consists of a piece of 3" plastic drain tubing (smooth type) or ABS tubing, 2 3" elbows (w/ short piece of the pipe to connect them, or just a regular elbow and a "street" elbow if you can find it in 3"), and a speaker box port for the open end, which serves as a velocity stack. The 3" tube is rigid (like PVC pipe but thinner) but it can be made to fit the opening in the airbox. I did this, painted the whole thing black, and used a K&N RU-2820 filter ($30) for my setup. Works great, you can only hear it under 1/2 throttle or more.

 

Yeah, same here. You can only hear it when you get on it, that's why it's great! BTW I'm a lazy *** and didn't want to use PVC piping or some shiet. Dryer hose works just fine for moi!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I prefer BSQ's DIY Icebox, which can also be done for about $10 in materials. It consists of a piece of 3" plastic drain tubing (smooth type) or ABS tubing, 2 3" elbows (w/ short piece of the pipe to connect them, or just a regular elbow and a "street" elbow if you can find it in 3"), and a speaker box port for the open end, which serves as a velocity stack. The 3" tube is rigid (like PVC pipe but thinner) but it can be made to fit the opening in the airbox. I did this, painted the whole thing black, and used a K&N RU-2820 filter ($30) for my setup. Works great, you can only hear it under 1/2 throttle or more. </TD></TR></TABLE>

any pics of the bsq setup? is it the same on on ti.com?

 

If you search for the username BSQ you will find a link to his site, he has pics of it there.

 

i have his site bookmarked http://www.geocities.com/bretq/ and i didn't see it there

 

n/m i see it... on me for not reading...

 

**** that

the dryer hose is much more creative

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you search for the username BSQ you will find a link to his site, he has pics of it there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.geocities.com/bretq/DIY_Icebox_CAI.html

 

nice. you got yourself an icebox now. i have the drop-in k&n filter for sale if you want it. i.m. me

 

This is not a bad idea, but I like (and just completed) BSQ's setup.

The aluminum is ok, as it does not conduct heat that well - but PVC or ABS doesn't conduct heat at all. Also, the venting you used it corregated on the inside (not smooth) and will likely cause millions of vortexes that would cause the air to be very uneven. The horn on the front is used to properly vortex the air for maximum velocity and thurst. That is why plastic tubing is preferred, cause it will not disturb what the horn has aligned. However, with that being said, I think the difference in performace would be minimal (probably not noticable on the butt dyno). but you get a for being creative......

 

Yeah, the intake tubing definitely needs to be smooth on the inside.

 

hmmm, you will get crappy air flow with that pipe. It won't be a smooth laminar air flow.
Last year, a PVC home made Icebox was tested in a dyno and it showed loss of hp over stock.
The AEM and Icebox has gone through detailed engineering that is not as easy to duplicate. Grab a book on Thermal Sciences and you'll see.

But for the effort though.

 

yeah ill stick to my aem for now. but its definately a creative DIY mod.

 

blah blah.. you guys are probably right about air flow and all that great physics, but if he runs his car with this DIY setup on a drag strip, then switches over to comptech icebox immediately after for the next run, and repeats this, i doubt there will be any significant difference in e.t.

 

I don't know what your definition of significant. I can't find the post from the archives.
But the DIY Ice intake lost like 3-4 hp over baseline stock. Now, why would someone do that other than to make their car louder?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jl74 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmmm, you will get crappy air flow with that pipe. It won't be a smooth laminar air flow.
Last year, a PVC home made Icebox was tested in a dyno and it showed loss of hp over stock.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Say what? I HIGHLY doubt that a tube drawing air from the fenderwell would lose hp over the stock convoluted resonator assembly that draws warm air from inside the engine compartment.

In case you didn't know from thermal science, warm air is less dense than cool air.

 

there have been dynos of people doing exactly what you did, and guess what, you LOST power.

just a get a filter on a stick

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Say what? I HIGHLY doubt that a tube drawing air from the fenderwell would lose hp over the stock convoluted resonator assembly that draws warm air from inside the engine compartment.

In case you didn't know from thermal science, warm air is less dense than cool air. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Contact username Asahi. He did the dyno. Yes, the cooler air was not enough to compensate for the resulting turbulent airflow.
Yes, I do know that cooler air is more dense.


Modified by jl74 at 12:22 PM 6/11/2003

 

in case you didnt see this. the guys at aem, injen and comptech have done a good job hyping cold air.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=514964

 

How could the airflow inside a smooth PVC tube (which has each individual piece port-matched to each other) be more turbulent than inside the stock resonator box and piping?

And Trey's test lost hp to an ITR intake, which also draws air from inside the fenderwell. Non-R intakes draw from inside the engine bay.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How could the airflow inside a smooth PVC tube (which has each individual piece port-matched to each other) be more turbulent than inside the stock resonator box and piping?.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Where the bends are and the overall design makes a whole lot of difference.

 

Has there been a test between a non ITR stock box (with the resonator in its stock place with a stock filter) and an icebox replica made with PVC/ABS and an aftermarket filter (K&N)? I have a hard time believing that if done carefully and intelligently, the DIY model would actually lose HP. I agree that maybe against the ITR intake it might not be as good, but I just don't think that it is not even as good as the stock intake on a regular teg (I feel that mine is an improvement over the stock, but we all know how accurate the butt dyno is )

 

it's nice and all that but why bother?
ebay have those made in taiwan CAI with a okay filter for 35 buck..

 

dats some ghetto shiat