I have three blocks at my house. I have the B20Z, LS, and GSR blocks. I was looking through some dyno charts on importreview.com and was impressed by the GSR bored to 84 mm with mods that got 216.5 WHP and 163.3 Torque. I was wondering how a B20 block with 84.5 mm pistons at 11:1 comp would stand up against a GSR block sleeved 84.5mm 11:1 comp? Given that both motors would have the same exact mods in the same car the only difference being the stroke, which of the 2 would win out? I heard that GSR blocks are better for reving higher and wouldnt the shorter stroke result in quicker acceleration? Thanks

 

the b20 is a torque monster and would beat the gsr in the torque dep't but you can't beat the high revving and reliabilty of a gsr block. gsr gets the from me

 

build the B20 right and you can rev it... just not quite as high... and i personally like the added displacement

 

One way to decide: take the width of the torque curve in the RPM range your gearing will support, and the one with the most 'area under the curve' (average over the RPM range) will tend to win.

The winner will tend to have the widest RPM range of usable torque, with gearing that keeps you in that band from shift to shift. Wider band means less shifting and therefore more time at max power/accel between shifts.

So, if the B20 gives you 1500RPM between 5000-7000 and the B18C gives it to you between 6000-8000, the torque is identical, and the gearing resulted in the same rotational speed at the wheel for each gear...

Who would win?

Mark

 

If you are going to build one, I`d use the GSR Block, sleeve n bore.

Ryan

 

stick with the gsr its great to be able to rev to 9500.it will make good power till around 9000. whats not to love about that.gsr has proven it self through the years.

 

I'd just look at all the drag cars and what they are running. B20-Vtec all the way.

However ericks runs a GSR, but its a GSR with a 95mm crank (If I remember right) so that doesn't count as a GSR anymore.

 

put the gsr crank in the b20. then you'll have a 1.9 ltr gsr.

 

2.0 gsr block, I believe it makes more torque than a built crvblock.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecvoodoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...I`d use the GSR Block, sleeve n bore...</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by evilxkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put the gsr crank in the b20. then you'll have a 1.9 ltr gsr.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Close but the gsr block has a different webbing/casting on the block which makes it more rigid. Also the girdle, but many people have different opionons on this subject(some say its makes a difference so say it doesn't). Think about it like this: When honda decided to make the b20, ls, and gsr blocks the engineers did not try and design the b20 and ls to be race motors or motors to be raced with. The gsr on the otherhand was designed to rev high and take the abuse. I'd stick with the gsr motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nebula &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2.0 gsr block, I believe it makes more torque than a built crvblock.</TD></TR></TABLE> Uhh yeah no.

Does it really even matter anymore? Hell build one and send me one of the spare. I'll use any of them.

 

The actual block you use has no effect on power output. The actual displacement and head are what is important. With this said, you might get a little more power and torque from a sleeved LS or B20 block than a sleeved GSR due to the slightly increased displacement. But since the GSR block is stronger and has oil squirters, it would be more reliable. Also keep in mind that you can get the extra displacement from a GSR block by using a LS/B20 crank in that block. The rod ratio would be no different since the GSR block has the same deck height.

 

is money an issue in this? b/c u have to think about how much it would cost to resleeve the b20 and maybe port polish the head. and the ls/crVtec conversion kit. and also the water/oil pump/ and timing belt. with the b20. also the cost to bore and resleeve the GSR.