I ran into this post on carsound http://www.carsound.com/ubb/ul...21564

What got me was RC's post <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jerry------think about it--------sure if power wires are adajcent to signal cables noise will be induced into the signal cables--------BUT when the current is high the music is so loud that it is almost always covered up by the music-------at idle and low power when we could have a chance of hearing the noise the current in the power wires is very low----------another thing to remember-------what good does it do to seperate the + wire from the signal cables when they are usually laid right on the chassis that is carrying the - current that is a exact mirror of the + current---------its a silly installer voodoo belief that has been passed from one technically challenged installer to the next--------and i doubt it will ever die...............RC
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I am leaving work now. What do you guys think of this?

 

I would agree if I hadn't ripped up carpets and re-ran cables on opposite side of the vehicle before. (only 2 cars I ve done had that propblem, One of them it cured instantly, the other needed a few more tricks)

 

HEY! RC is always right!
lol

 

I routinely route my signal within inches of power. I have never had a problem with it. I know I should not, but I am lazy, and I don't compete

I have had many ground problems in the past, and noise because of grounding issues. But that is all.

 

almost every car ive done that had noise in the system was due to a bad ground

 

Yikes gound and power may be a mirror immage but the chassis has a much larger surface area. Which means there will be a much smaller magnetic field near the chassis then the + wire. Now if it was laid near a ground wire I would agree that it is the same. The amount of induced signal is directly tied to how much current you pull. As the current in a wire goes up the magnetic field around the cable also goes up. If you would like to learn more do a search for transmission lines on the internet. I don't agree with his "RC" reasoning, but I do the same thing. I'll bust out the old Emag book later see if I can find some equations.

Most noise I have found has also been tied to faulty connections. I have always laid my power with RCA's and never had any noise. If you want no noise got to fiber its' cheaper and impossible for noise to be induced into the line.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> If you want no noise got to fiber its' cheaper and impossible for noise to be induced into the line.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Pioneer P9 it is then

 

My MDX-400 liked being in digital mode so much it won't switch back to anolog. Piece of crap Sony . I'm probably the only person that hates Sony but ownes almost everything made by them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Pioneer P9 it is then </TD></TR></TABLE>

Then you sir will have purchased one of the worst crossovers in all history....Go all Zapco and use Symblink!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rcurley55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Then you sir will have purchased one of the worst crossovers in all history....Go all Zapco and use Symblink!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not bad. Balanced and 18volts

I am sure it is expensive enough to be called symbling though.