Started my sunroof plug project today...
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From: DFW, TX
Started my sunroof plug project today...
*READ THIS BEFORE YOU REPLY TO THIS POST*
The wood is only being used as a TEMPLATE to bend the metal around. There will be NO WOOD IN THE CAR AT ALL! NO WOOD IN THE SUNROOF HOLE!
Okay, now that you're ready:
Pics will come soon -
I already had the sunroof panel removed, so today I went ahead and dropped the headliner and the sunroof assembly itself and got started on the template for the plug.
I traced the outline of the hole in the roof with a sharpie onto a piece of 3/4" ply, then got busy with the jigsaw.
Cut, lined it up, cut, lined it up, trimmed, lined it up, and I still have some more cutting, trimming, and lining up to do.
Next step: Once the template is done I will take my 22ga. sheet metal and cut it a little big, then bend the edges around the wood in order to be able to rivet the plug in place.
The plug will most likely be painted flat black until I can afford to paint the top of the car. I'm going to seal it with 3m's "Drip Chek" heavy sealant. It <u>will</u> be waterproof.
As I said, I have some pics but just need some time to get them up.
Updates will come soon too...
Alex
p.s. Thanks very much to user "Uncleben", who did the exact same thing with his EF hatch and helped me out immensely.
Modified by Quik89Si at 10:29 AM 6/23/2003
The wood is only being used as a TEMPLATE to bend the metal around. There will be NO WOOD IN THE CAR AT ALL! NO WOOD IN THE SUNROOF HOLE!
Okay, now that you're ready:
Pics will come soon -
I already had the sunroof panel removed, so today I went ahead and dropped the headliner and the sunroof assembly itself and got started on the template for the plug.
I traced the outline of the hole in the roof with a sharpie onto a piece of 3/4" ply, then got busy with the jigsaw.
Cut, lined it up, cut, lined it up, trimmed, lined it up, and I still have some more cutting, trimming, and lining up to do.
Next step: Once the template is done I will take my 22ga. sheet metal and cut it a little big, then bend the edges around the wood in order to be able to rivet the plug in place.
The plug will most likely be painted flat black until I can afford to paint the top of the car. I'm going to seal it with 3m's "Drip Chek" heavy sealant. It <u>will</u> be waterproof.
As I said, I have some pics but just need some time to get them up.
Updates will come soon too...
Alex
p.s. Thanks very much to user "Uncleben", who did the exact same thing with his EF hatch and helped me out immensely.
Modified by Quik89Si at 10:29 AM 6/23/2003
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From: DFW, TX
Re: (drjondurst)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drjondurst »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much does the plug weigh? im sure someone will be wondering that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Plug will probably weigh between 5 and 7 pounds. That's my best guess.
The sunroof assembly weighs at LEAST 25 lbs, and the sunroof panel weighs at least another 7-9 lbs. Decent weight savings, I'd say.
22ga. galvanized steel with 1/8" steel rivets - should be sturdy enough, wouldn't you say?
I have two pieces of sheet metal - I can make a second plug if anyone wants one. I'd probably charge around $60 for it if anyone is interested. I'm going to post pics of the finished products of course so everyone can see what it looks like.
Alex
Plug will probably weigh between 5 and 7 pounds. That's my best guess.
The sunroof assembly weighs at LEAST 25 lbs, and the sunroof panel weighs at least another 7-9 lbs. Decent weight savings, I'd say.
22ga. galvanized steel with 1/8" steel rivets - should be sturdy enough, wouldn't you say?
I have two pieces of sheet metal - I can make a second plug if anyone wants one. I'd probably charge around $60 for it if anyone is interested. I'm going to post pics of the finished products of course so everyone can see what it looks like.
Alex
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From: MA
Re: (Quik89Si)
i'm in the process of doing the same thing. the template sure is a bitch to get right! i must have test fitted it about 10 times now. i haven't had a good hour to 2 hours to work on it though, so its trim, fit, trim, wait 7 days, fit, and so on.
looks good so far!
looks good so far!
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Re: (keithv)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by keithv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the template sure is a bitch to get right! i must have test fitted it about 10 times now. i haven't had a good hour to 2 hours to work on it though, so its trim, fit, trim, wait 7 days, fit, and so on. </TD></TR></TABLE>
What have you been using to cut it?
Do you have pics of your progress so far?
It sucks the same way for me too, because the car is not at my house, so I gotta find the time and make the best of it.
Alex
What have you been using to cut it?
Do you have pics of your progress so far?
It sucks the same way for me too, because the car is not at my house, so I gotta find the time and make the best of it.
Alex
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From: MA
Re: (Quik89Si)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quik89Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What have you been using to cut it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i used a bandsaw to make the inital cut and now i am using a electric sander. i don't want to cut it too short b/c then i have to start all over again.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quik89Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have pics of your progress so far?</TD></TR></TABLE>
nah no pics. i haven't had time to dedicate to it, so i do it here and there. there isn't any time for pics.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quik89Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It sucks the same way for me too, because the car is not at my house, so I gotta find the time and make the best of it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
its the same thing here. i was going to bring my car home this past weekend, but a fuel leak popped up.
i used a bandsaw to make the inital cut and now i am using a electric sander. i don't want to cut it too short b/c then i have to start all over again.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quik89Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have pics of your progress so far?</TD></TR></TABLE>
nah no pics. i haven't had time to dedicate to it, so i do it here and there. there isn't any time for pics.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quik89Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It sucks the same way for me too, because the car is not at my house, so I gotta find the time and make the best of it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
its the same thing here. i was going to bring my car home this past weekend, but a fuel leak popped up.
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Re: Started my sunroof plug project today... (Quik89Si)
cool!!!!
i am just about done with mine, did it about a week ago now. but i used kevlar instead of sheet metal... came out ok, just need to finish sealing it and then sand it a little. and maybe if a cool, clear it
i will have a post up this weekend about it. and maybe even some pix of my car.
i am just about done with mine, did it about a week ago now. but i used kevlar instead of sheet metal... came out ok, just need to finish sealing it and then sand it a little. and maybe if a cool, clear it
i will have a post up this weekend about it. and maybe even some pix of my car.
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From: Baltimore, Md, USA
Re: Re: (Bryant)
I'm not one to say. But I'm sure somewhere out there you could buy a big thick piece of plexiglass to use in place of that piece of wood. In my opionion wood on a car is sort of ghetto.
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From: San Diego, CA, USA
Re: Re: (FourthGenHatch)
Re-read the post.. he is not goin to use wood as a plug..
the wood it a template to make the sheet metal, and give a form inwhich to bend the ends of the sheet metla over..
the wood it a template to make the sheet metal, and give a form inwhich to bend the ends of the sheet metla over..
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Re: Re: (Outsane)
NOT using wood to fill the hole. I repeat, I am NOT using wood to fill the hole.
As far as the question about the sunroof plug out of plexiglass, I found this on resource.crx.org a few years back and I don't know the author, but I'll post it up...
"SUNROOF STEPS
Wow -- I just did this for the second time on my 89 Si. First time, actually, a friend did it for me -- we used a tinted lexan panel he had lying around and some little foam roll cage padding pieces and got a little roof together -- sealed it with black RTV around the edges. It was great -- however, after a couple of months the RTV dried up and it started to leak.
One day, I locked my keys in the car and decided the roof was the best way in. Evidently those outside seals weren't as fragile as I thought.
So I happened to be right next to Home Depot. $11.38 later I had a 36x30" sheet of tinted Plexiglas. A bit thin.
So walking over to the aluminum stock section found a couple of box aluminum pieces -- about 1/2" * 1/2". Bought a rivet gun -- and why not get a Dremel while I'm there? It's only $40 -- and it'll do such a great job cutting that plexi. How about those fiberglass reinforced cutting wheel attachments -- now I'm in business. I realize now I'm starting to sound like Steve Jones. Let's get onto the next paragraph...
So my $10 trip ended up being $100 -- so what. It's Home Depot -- you're lucky to get out of there for less than $100 anyway. HOWEVER, if you're REALLY disciplined (or just don't bring your credit card) you can just get the necessities and borrow someone's tools (highly recommended). Dang -- that sounded like Kwicko. I need to stop emulating my friends.
While you're there, pick up a good silicone caulk -- black, of course. NP1 if they have it -- although any good 50 year silicone caulk will work. Borrow someone's caulking gun if you can. NOW, take all of these ingredients home.
1. Take a large cardboard box -- or something similar -- and get a marker from the bottom (I suppose a pen will work if you're patient) and mark out where your roof is. You may want to duct tape the box down so it doesn't move. Cut the outline out with tin snips or scissors or something and do a mock fitting (no pun intended, Mike). BE SLOW on the corners, that's where the fitment is necessary.
It should fit inside of the roofline, but just barely. If you leave 1/8 or so all the way around that's great -- 1/16 is nicer. Doesn't have to be perfectly the same all the way around -- just good enough to where you can caulk the edges.
2. Now, make an exact copy of that cardboard cutout in plexi. Use something good to cut (like a $40 dremel from Home Depot, for instance). I just used a perm. marker to set my edges. You'll test fit -- grind some off -- test fit -- grind some off (repeat about 20 times if you're like me). Eventually, it'll fit inside and you're happy with it. Congrats! It's time for a break. If you're in Texas and it's summer, you've probably had about 20 by this point.
3. On the sides, you have two metal tabs that stick out toward the center -- they're about 8" long -- more or less. THIS is where you'll be attaching your 36" long aluminum (of if you must, thin-walled steel) box tubes. Mark your points across (check your distance front to back -- don't use the tabs as reference points as they aren't exact). I used 2 braces across -- one on each extreme side of the tabs. We had to get the crescent wrench out and bend the tabs up and down a bit to get them to line up. When you do this, drill down through the box into the tabs. Rivet them from the bottom side.
4. NOW test fit it on top of the aluminum thingies. Is that nice and good? No, of course it isn't. Adjust those little metal tabs until the levels are right -- don't worry about the corners, they're going to be high. Now bend that box tubing up a bit in the middle -- the sunroof isn't exactly level across. The 4 corners will stick up a bit -- if you have a heat gun, take care of it that way. If not, maybe a hair dryer will get you places. Now that it's nice and good, get some 3M (or your fave brand) of double sided tape (got mine from HOME DEPOT) -- this stuff is pretty strong and will hold the roof down. Put it on the box tubing first, then lay the plexi on top -- don't press down until you're sure that's where you want it.
5. Congrats -- your getting close to the final step. THIS IS IT! Your very own lexan roof -- tons of headroom, light weight -- and all at a reasonable cost. Remember the silicone caulk and caulk gun? Grab it. Get some masking tape, too (I got mine from...well, you know). Now mask off about 1/4" from the inside of the plexi from the edges. Also get right on the edge of the outside. This will make your bead all nice and pretty. Maybe even do the bottom, too -- just to keep it from going through (not really necessary for the stuff we used, though). Now caulk around the edges -- lay a nice thick bead all the way around -- fill in the edges and then some. Be liberal -- it's only $3 for a can of this stuff so don't cheap out here. Then get a cardboard box corner or something similar, and wipe off the remaining using a corner (maybe make a slight cut on the end to flatten a bit) -- be nice and careful. We used about 10 different ones -- of course we used WAY too much silicone (but it's cheap, so ask me if I feel bad -- it's not like there's a silicone shortage in this country; ever been to Malibu?). NOW -- let it sit for about 5, then peel the tape off (don?t' wait too long). Voila! Let it sit for a day or so.
That?s it!"
As I said, I don't know who the author is, but it was from the CRX Resource board. It may help you guys out if you want to DIY.
Alex
Modified by Quik89Si at 7:19 PM 7/8/2005
As far as the question about the sunroof plug out of plexiglass, I found this on resource.crx.org a few years back and I don't know the author, but I'll post it up...
"SUNROOF STEPS
Wow -- I just did this for the second time on my 89 Si. First time, actually, a friend did it for me -- we used a tinted lexan panel he had lying around and some little foam roll cage padding pieces and got a little roof together -- sealed it with black RTV around the edges. It was great -- however, after a couple of months the RTV dried up and it started to leak.
One day, I locked my keys in the car and decided the roof was the best way in. Evidently those outside seals weren't as fragile as I thought.
So I happened to be right next to Home Depot. $11.38 later I had a 36x30" sheet of tinted Plexiglas. A bit thin.
So walking over to the aluminum stock section found a couple of box aluminum pieces -- about 1/2" * 1/2". Bought a rivet gun -- and why not get a Dremel while I'm there? It's only $40 -- and it'll do such a great job cutting that plexi. How about those fiberglass reinforced cutting wheel attachments -- now I'm in business. I realize now I'm starting to sound like Steve Jones. Let's get onto the next paragraph...
So my $10 trip ended up being $100 -- so what. It's Home Depot -- you're lucky to get out of there for less than $100 anyway. HOWEVER, if you're REALLY disciplined (or just don't bring your credit card) you can just get the necessities and borrow someone's tools (highly recommended). Dang -- that sounded like Kwicko. I need to stop emulating my friends.
While you're there, pick up a good silicone caulk -- black, of course. NP1 if they have it -- although any good 50 year silicone caulk will work. Borrow someone's caulking gun if you can. NOW, take all of these ingredients home.
1. Take a large cardboard box -- or something similar -- and get a marker from the bottom (I suppose a pen will work if you're patient) and mark out where your roof is. You may want to duct tape the box down so it doesn't move. Cut the outline out with tin snips or scissors or something and do a mock fitting (no pun intended, Mike). BE SLOW on the corners, that's where the fitment is necessary.
It should fit inside of the roofline, but just barely. If you leave 1/8 or so all the way around that's great -- 1/16 is nicer. Doesn't have to be perfectly the same all the way around -- just good enough to where you can caulk the edges.
2. Now, make an exact copy of that cardboard cutout in plexi. Use something good to cut (like a $40 dremel from Home Depot, for instance). I just used a perm. marker to set my edges. You'll test fit -- grind some off -- test fit -- grind some off (repeat about 20 times if you're like me). Eventually, it'll fit inside and you're happy with it. Congrats! It's time for a break. If you're in Texas and it's summer, you've probably had about 20 by this point.
3. On the sides, you have two metal tabs that stick out toward the center -- they're about 8" long -- more or less. THIS is where you'll be attaching your 36" long aluminum (of if you must, thin-walled steel) box tubes. Mark your points across (check your distance front to back -- don't use the tabs as reference points as they aren't exact). I used 2 braces across -- one on each extreme side of the tabs. We had to get the crescent wrench out and bend the tabs up and down a bit to get them to line up. When you do this, drill down through the box into the tabs. Rivet them from the bottom side.
4. NOW test fit it on top of the aluminum thingies. Is that nice and good? No, of course it isn't. Adjust those little metal tabs until the levels are right -- don't worry about the corners, they're going to be high. Now bend that box tubing up a bit in the middle -- the sunroof isn't exactly level across. The 4 corners will stick up a bit -- if you have a heat gun, take care of it that way. If not, maybe a hair dryer will get you places. Now that it's nice and good, get some 3M (or your fave brand) of double sided tape (got mine from HOME DEPOT) -- this stuff is pretty strong and will hold the roof down. Put it on the box tubing first, then lay the plexi on top -- don't press down until you're sure that's where you want it.
5. Congrats -- your getting close to the final step. THIS IS IT! Your very own lexan roof -- tons of headroom, light weight -- and all at a reasonable cost. Remember the silicone caulk and caulk gun? Grab it. Get some masking tape, too (I got mine from...well, you know). Now mask off about 1/4" from the inside of the plexi from the edges. Also get right on the edge of the outside. This will make your bead all nice and pretty. Maybe even do the bottom, too -- just to keep it from going through (not really necessary for the stuff we used, though). Now caulk around the edges -- lay a nice thick bead all the way around -- fill in the edges and then some. Be liberal -- it's only $3 for a can of this stuff so don't cheap out here. Then get a cardboard box corner or something similar, and wipe off the remaining using a corner (maybe make a slight cut on the end to flatten a bit) -- be nice and careful. We used about 10 different ones -- of course we used WAY too much silicone (but it's cheap, so ask me if I feel bad -- it's not like there's a silicone shortage in this country; ever been to Malibu?). NOW -- let it sit for about 5, then peel the tape off (don?t' wait too long). Voila! Let it sit for a day or so.
That?s it!"
As I said, I don't know who the author is, but it was from the CRX Resource board. It may help you guys out if you want to DIY.
Alex
Modified by Quik89Si at 7:19 PM 7/8/2005
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Re: Re: (FourthGenHatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FourthGenHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not one to say. But I'm sure somewhere out there you could buy a big thick piece of plexiglass to use in place of that piece of wood. In my opionion wood on a car is sort of ghetto.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry for ripping on you so hard there...didn't mean to come off like that. I just meant to clarify that I'm not using the wood panel in the roof. It'll be steel.
And Bryant, about using the DX skin, I thought about doing that, but this is the most economical choice for now...the DX roof skin may come later. I would have to pay a body shop to put it in and paint it though.
Alex
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From: MA
Re: Re: (Quik89Si)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quik89Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And Bryant, about using the DX skin, I thought about doing that, but this is the most economical choice for now...the DX roof skin may come later. I would have to pay a body shop to put it in and paint it though.
Alex</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah same here...this project is going to cost me about $60 total (that includes the purchase of a saber saw). if i can make 2 panels out of the piece of sheetmetal i have, i might break even on the whole thing.
and this pics in this thread might help some of you guys out.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=457186
Alex</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah same here...this project is going to cost me about $60 total (that includes the purchase of a saber saw). if i can make 2 panels out of the piece of sheetmetal i have, i might break even on the whole thing.
and this pics in this thread might help some of you guys out.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=457186
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From: DFW, TX
Re: Re: (keithv)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by keithv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yeah same here...this project is going to cost me about $60 total (that includes the purchase of a saber saw). if i can make 2 panels out of the piece of sheetmetal i have, i might break even on the whole thing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What size sheet metal are you using, and how much did you pay for it?
I got 2 pieces, 24" by 42", 22gauge, galvanized, for $25, but $25 was the minimum purchase so I might have gotten ripped off...
Everything else cost me less than $40, so I'm at about $60 also. LOTS of labor time so far, though!!!
Alex
yeah same here...this project is going to cost me about $60 total (that includes the purchase of a saber saw). if i can make 2 panels out of the piece of sheetmetal i have, i might break even on the whole thing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What size sheet metal are you using, and how much did you pay for it?
I got 2 pieces, 24" by 42", 22gauge, galvanized, for $25, but $25 was the minimum purchase so I might have gotten ripped off...
Everything else cost me less than $40, so I'm at about $60 also. LOTS of labor time so far, though!!!
Alex
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From: MA
Re: Re: (Quik89Si)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quik89Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What size sheet metal are you using, and how much did you pay for it?
I got 2 pieces, 24" by 42", 22gauge, galvanized, for $25, but $25 was the minimum purchase so I might have gotten ripped off...
Everything else cost me less than $40, so I'm at about $60 also. LOTS of labor time so far, though!!!
Alex</TD></TR></TABLE>
i have a 44" x 44", 20 gauge, $20 (thru a local guy who buys lots of metal from a metal supply shop). not sure if its galvanized or not. it sounds like you got about the same deal.
and yes, its lots and lots of labor...
I got 2 pieces, 24" by 42", 22gauge, galvanized, for $25, but $25 was the minimum purchase so I might have gotten ripped off...
Everything else cost me less than $40, so I'm at about $60 also. LOTS of labor time so far, though!!!
Alex</TD></TR></TABLE>
i have a 44" x 44", 20 gauge, $20 (thru a local guy who buys lots of metal from a metal supply shop). not sure if its galvanized or not. it sounds like you got about the same deal.
and yes, its lots and lots of labor...
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From: DFW, TX
Re: Re: (keithv)
Well, today I got the bending of the edges done, and I did some more pounding and it fits where it's supposed to. I then used some bare metal primer on it, and it just needs a few more coats of paint before it's ready for the rivets.
I'll try to get pics of it up tomorrow.
Alex
By the way, if anyone wants to buy any of the assorted sunroof pieces I pulled out, just let me know.
I'll try to get pics of it up tomorrow.
Alex
By the way, if anyone wants to buy any of the assorted sunroof pieces I pulled out, just let me know.
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From: Fayetteville, AR
Re: Re: (Quik89Si)
glad to hear it is coming along! looking forward to seeing pics.
I recently added another line of 3M Drip Check along the back edge as there was a *slight* bit of water leaking. Nowadays though, the race kaa sits in the garage and the R sits in the drive way
I recently added another line of 3M Drip Check along the back edge as there was a *slight* bit of water leaking. Nowadays though, the race kaa sits in the garage and the R sits in the drive way
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Re: Re: (model x)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by model x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another little tip that might help smooth the silicone is to use an ice cube; the silicone won't stick to it.
Nice work btw. I plan on using plexi.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I saw that ice cube trick in the last issue of SCC, wasn't it? On the project Mini with the carbon fiber roof?
I don't know if the Drip-Chek stuff is silicone based or what, but I was planning on trying the ice cube trick anyway...and probably using some masking tape on top of the roof to keep it from straying too far from it's intended target.
By the way, the bare metal primer that I have by Krylon sucks major *****. Don't ever use it for anything if you can avoid it. The coverage sucks...I was looking for a paint by Krylon called "Rust-tough", as I have used it before and it's awesome stuff. The nozzle on the can is a fan-spray type and it's way better than the cone spray type, which the primer I bought has.
I'll get some pics of the primered panel (not in the car yet) tomorrow if I can - I'm going to go back and put some more coats of paint on it too.
Alex
Nice work btw. I plan on using plexi.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I saw that ice cube trick in the last issue of SCC, wasn't it? On the project Mini with the carbon fiber roof?
I don't know if the Drip-Chek stuff is silicone based or what, but I was planning on trying the ice cube trick anyway...and probably using some masking tape on top of the roof to keep it from straying too far from it's intended target.
By the way, the bare metal primer that I have by Krylon sucks major *****. Don't ever use it for anything if you can avoid it. The coverage sucks...I was looking for a paint by Krylon called "Rust-tough", as I have used it before and it's awesome stuff. The nozzle on the can is a fan-spray type and it's way better than the cone spray type, which the primer I bought has.
I'll get some pics of the primered panel (not in the car yet) tomorrow if I can - I'm going to go back and put some more coats of paint on it too.
Alex