why did this happen to my brakes and tires?
my car did double duty at talladga grand prix over the weekend, and its having issues. first off i have a mostly stock rsx-s with ferodo ds2500 pads. i have tracked the car a few times before with those pads with no problem except a little fade. usually i run 2 cars so the rsx doesnt take too much of a beating, well my other car was having engine problems so the rsx got 2 days of thrashing in a row. the pads usually have a goot bite and then are pretty linear after that. after a few hours on the track (not all at once mind you) they didnt have the same bite, but they do still stop (maybe not qute as well tho). they also started making a grinding noise. i thought i had worn down all the pad and was on the backing plate, but i had plenty of pad on both sides. did i glaze my rotors? Andie, whats going on???
I am also confused about my tire wear. i ran ecsta v700's the first day. they had a few track days and a ton of autox runs on them, but they still had plenty of tread. we ran lil talladega clockwise for the entire day. the course is all right turns except for one left hand sweeper. now get this, the inside of my right rear tire was corded in a few spots. the tire that did the least work around the track got more wear then any of the other tires. any ideas? im running 1/8" total toe out front and rear, 1.8 deg -camber in the front and whatever i can get out of the stock suspension in the rear (not much). another guy that i work with took his supra there, i checked today and he had the same wear pattern on his right rear tire. anyone have a guess as to what would cause this?
I am also confused about my tire wear. i ran ecsta v700's the first day. they had a few track days and a ton of autox runs on them, but they still had plenty of tread. we ran lil talladega clockwise for the entire day. the course is all right turns except for one left hand sweeper. now get this, the inside of my right rear tire was corded in a few spots. the tire that did the least work around the track got more wear then any of the other tires. any ideas? im running 1/8" total toe out front and rear, 1.8 deg -camber in the front and whatever i can get out of the stock suspension in the rear (not much). another guy that i work with took his supra there, i checked today and he had the same wear pattern on his right rear tire. anyone have a guess as to what would cause this?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RussTypeS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am also confused about my tire wear. i ran ecsta v700's the first day. they had a few track days and a ton of autox runs on them, but they still had plenty of tread. we ran lil talladega clockwise for the entire day. the course is all right turns except for one left hand sweeper. now get this, the inside of my right rear tire was corded in a few spots. the tire that did the least work around the track got more wear then any of the other tires. any ideas? im running 1/8" total toe out front and rear, 1.8 deg -camber in the front and whatever i can get out of the stock suspension in the rear (not much). another guy that i work with took his supra there, i checked today and he had the same wear pattern on his right rear tire. anyone have a guess as to what would cause this?
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Lets see, open differential, 200 hp, and tight right hand turns means the inside front tire does a lot of spinning, and the result is a corded inside shuolder (my Celica GTS is the same way).
The Supra did the same thing to the inside rear for the same reason.
Scott
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Lets see, open differential, 200 hp, and tight right hand turns means the inside front tire does a lot of spinning, and the result is a corded inside shuolder (my Celica GTS is the same way).
The Supra did the same thing to the inside rear for the same reason.
Scott
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by celica73 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Lets see, open differential, 200 hp, and tight right hand turns means the inside front tire does a lot of spinning, and the result is a corded inside shuolder (my Celica GTS is the same way).
The Supra did the same thing to the inside rear for the same reason.
Scott</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes but this was my inside REAR tire, thats what confuses me...
Lets see, open differential, 200 hp, and tight right hand turns means the inside front tire does a lot of spinning, and the result is a corded inside shuolder (my Celica GTS is the same way).
The Supra did the same thing to the inside rear for the same reason.
Scott</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes but this was my inside REAR tire, thats what confuses me...
Scott, he is having problems with the right rear tire. I don't believe that a FWD car will spin its rear tires that much.
I imagine that it is your rear toe. Many Honda drivers zero toe on the rear. Toe-out on the rear would produce high slip angles for the inside rear tire.
Edit: Actually, a lot of Hondas do go with toe-out in the rear (gain rotation), but I still think that's the cause for your tire wear.
I'm not sure what the Supra's problem is (spinning tire?).
Modified by GSpeedR at 3:01 PM 6/9/2003
I imagine that it is your rear toe. Many Honda drivers zero toe on the rear. Toe-out on the rear would produce high slip angles for the inside rear tire.
Edit: Actually, a lot of Hondas do go with toe-out in the rear (gain rotation), but I still think that's the cause for your tire wear.
I'm not sure what the Supra's problem is (spinning tire?).
Modified by GSpeedR at 3:01 PM 6/9/2003
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSpeedR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Scott, he is having problems with the right rear tire. I don't believe that a FWD car will spin its rear tires that much.
I imagine that it is your rear toe. Unless I'm completely mistaken, most Honda drivers go toe-in or zero toe on the rear. Toe-out on the rear would produce high slip angles for the inside tire.
I'm not sure what the Supra's problem is (spinning tire?).</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats sorta what i was thinking too. the car is set up for autox not the track. even considering the high slip angle there is almost no weight on that tire, would it really be that brutal?
I imagine that it is your rear toe. Unless I'm completely mistaken, most Honda drivers go toe-in or zero toe on the rear. Toe-out on the rear would produce high slip angles for the inside tire.
I'm not sure what the Supra's problem is (spinning tire?).</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats sorta what i was thinking too. the car is set up for autox not the track. even considering the high slip angle there is almost no weight on that tire, would it really be that brutal?
I'm not sure. However, considering the track was 90% right turns the effects will be greatly exaggerated.
When people install camber kits without getting an alignment afterward they can wear down new tires to the chords with 10 minutes of street driving. Extreme toe settings partially changes static rolling friction to kinetic friction, which is much harder on tires (or anything for that matter).
Edit: added a few words
When people install camber kits without getting an alignment afterward they can wear down new tires to the chords with 10 minutes of street driving. Extreme toe settings partially changes static rolling friction to kinetic friction, which is much harder on tires (or anything for that matter).
Edit: added a few words
My bad, I rear inside rear and thought inside front.
Anyhow, theory number 2:
Under braking there is very little weight on the inside rear, so it is prone to locking up (even with ABS), that might explain teh small corded spots, a quick lock then ABS does it's thing.
Or, as others have said, just some oddities with rear camber and toe settings.
Scott
Anyhow, theory number 2:
Under braking there is very little weight on the inside rear, so it is prone to locking up (even with ABS), that might explain teh small corded spots, a quick lock then ABS does it's thing.
Or, as others have said, just some oddities with rear camber and toe settings.
Scott
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSpeedR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not sure. However, considering the track was 90% right turns the effects will be greatly exaggerated.
When people install camber kits without getting an alignment afterward they can wear down new tires to the chords with 10 minutes of street driving. Extreme toe settings partially changes static rolling friction to kinetic friction, which is much harder on tires (or anything for that matter).
Edit: added a few words</TD></TR></TABLE>
i run the same alignment on the street every day (the car is my daily driver). i have no problems with tire wear except for a lil camber wear in the front. still hard cornering on the track is alot different then daily driving, so this very well could be the reason.
it might be my rear brakes locking up. i never really noticed it locking but there are a few corners i trail braked into pretty hard. the only problem with that theory is that its not a flatspot, its just like a chunk of rubber missing. other then the few missing chunks the wear is very consistentl, very low tread on the inside of the tire.
When people install camber kits without getting an alignment afterward they can wear down new tires to the chords with 10 minutes of street driving. Extreme toe settings partially changes static rolling friction to kinetic friction, which is much harder on tires (or anything for that matter).
Edit: added a few words</TD></TR></TABLE>
i run the same alignment on the street every day (the car is my daily driver). i have no problems with tire wear except for a lil camber wear in the front. still hard cornering on the track is alot different then daily driving, so this very well could be the reason.
it might be my rear brakes locking up. i never really noticed it locking but there are a few corners i trail braked into pretty hard. the only problem with that theory is that its not a flatspot, its just like a chunk of rubber missing. other then the few missing chunks the wear is very consistentl, very low tread on the inside of the tire.
I've never followed an RSX on the track, but practically every FWD car will lift the inside rear under hard cornering. Add a little trail braking to the mix, and the tire will lift up and then stop rotating all together. ABS can't do anything in this situation except unlock that brake, but with the wheel in the air this doesn't do anything. Then when you exit the corner and the tire hits the ground again, you get a nice little puff of smoke as it's brought up to speed. With r-compounds I imagine you get a fair amount of body roll too, and this causes positive camber for the outside wheels, and negative camber for the inside wheels. Of course, suspension compression and droop correct this a bit, but it still happens on a street car. That inside rear wheel is tilted over quite a bit, so that explains the wear on the inside shoulder. Just rotate it to the front and drive the track backwards for a few sessions, that should even the wear right out.
As for the brakes, sounds like glazed pads to me. Get some nice medium grit sandpaper and go to work. Might want to hold your breath or get a dust mask too.
As for the brakes, sounds like glazed pads to me. Get some nice medium grit sandpaper and go to work. Might want to hold your breath or get a dust mask too.
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GRM Scott
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Jan 7, 2002 06:32 AM




