MilanoRedDC2

Factory ITR Brakes and stainless braided lines. Any suggestions for Buttonwillow Raceway #13CW?

Thanks

-Uly

Mashimaro

iTrader: (1)

Motul dot 5.1 or RBF600 if you have money, Project Mu MAX500 pads all around. that's what i have

there's more hardcore pads out there, but i'm happy with these so far as i hardly track compared to daily driving.

Stinkycheezmonky

What type of tires and experience do you have?

slofu

Carbotech AX6 front pads and ATE Brake Fluid should work well with sticky street tires.

alexs2200

I have used Motul RBF600, Brembo Blank disks, and Endless CC-X pads (now called MX-72) Pads are excellent track pads that can drive on the street w/o noise. Pricey for pads but do not fade and can handle high temps 500 plus degrees. There are other cheaper pads out there with same amount of bite but chances are they will also warp your rotors going back and forth from street use and track use. These Endless I've had on for more than a year. Tracked and street w/o disk warp or noise. Dust is another story...

RockinaRHard

Best question to answer with.

98itRspec

Are you gonna be there @ the 30th of this month?

nsxtasy

I've used Endless CC-X pads on my ITR, and found that they squealed pretty loud on the street.

MilanoRedDC2

Yes sir. Registered for Saturday and Sunday.

I am running Bridgestone RE-11's in a 205/45/16

This will be my first time at the track. I currently have EBC Green Stuffs all around.

Stinkycheezmonky

You Cali guys, is that track/configuration hard on brakes? Any longish straights to cool them down?

I'm leaning towards Hawk HP+, mostly because you're a noob and on street tires. There are other options available to you though.

irev210

I thought you had reds up front? Those should be okay... I've never used them, so I would be curious to see how you liked them, but they should handle the heat. The green stuff will definitely fade though.


Greens will fade, so will Hawk HP Plus, especially at buttonwillow



If you are going to go with carbotech, I would get the XP10 up front, AX6 in the rear.

Stinkycheezmonky

XP10s + street tires + noob sounds bad to me... The Cobalt CSRs might work better than HP+, but I have no actual experience with them. If not those, maybe Cobalt XR4s?

irev210

I've never used Cobalt, can't comment. I can say that the HP+ will fade without much effort at buttonwillow. the CSR and XR4's have much higher operating temps, closer to hawk blues.

Why do you say XP10 + street tires + noob sounds bad? They are nice pads...


for brake fluid, the ATE superblue is really cheap, offers good value. $12 for 1L

Stinkycheezmonky

I don't personally like them, but that's not the issue really. They're race pads, with a pretty strong bite. Strong bite and street tires is generally not good (fairly easy to lock up the tires), and with a noob who doesn't brake well, it'd be even worse.

get RIGHT

I agree. And this way he doesn't have to change his pads out. They are great on the street too. A nice all around pad.

nsxtasy

Yup. Another vote for the HP+.

The only time I've gotten the HP+ to fade is when the pad is brand new, and not bedded properly. They call this "green pad syndrome", when the pads fade the first time (sometimes the second session also) they get really hot. After that, they should be fine, without fading, for the remaining life of the pad.

This has been true of every kind of street pad and street/track pad I've ever used on the track.

The Motul RBF600 gives you a lot more protection against boilover. The extra $15-20 for a full flush isn't going to break the bank. That's a no-brainer for me.

alexs2200

Did you install them with all the brake shims and/or bed them in after installation? I can tell you I'm on them right now and my S2k is on them w/o noise. I believe if you leave out the shims squealing may occur. These are my 6th set between the S and the ITR. No problems here.

irev210

I only ran the HP+ once, dunno more than what I experienced with them - it was fairly unfavorable... I will definitely run them again, they are just stored away for now.

On the hawk blues, I was still having issues with fading (got worse as the number of track miles went up) and they obviously are much more track oriented, fade resistant pads

After 473 track miles + 100's of street miles on the hawk 9012 blues, the pads still had life left, but the rotors are starting to crack. I am replacing the setup with XP10's, hopefully more rotor friendly for me. My friend runs the XP10 on his S2K (and ran them w/ street tires) with very favorable results, no strange brake modulation issues, or having issues with too strong of an initial bite.

I will tell you that the blues eat rotors, there is a fairly hefty ridge on my rotors, but I did drive these cold, frequently. Outside of the mild dusting, they were quiet and a great street pad.

For fluids, ATE is pretty awesome. They make the super blue and the type 200 (same fluids, just different colors). It is nifty for when you are bleeding your brake setup. As soon as your flush goes from blue to gold (or vice versa) you know you are 100% flushed.

12 bucks for 1 liter
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/ate/a...blue_fluid.jsp
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/ate/a...e200_amber.jsp

# Boiling point minimum: 536 degrees F
# Wet boiling point minimum: 388 degrees F


VS Motul (20 bucks a 1/2 liter)
dry boiling point of 593F and a wet boiling point of 420F.

I would assume you have much bigger issues going down if you are boiling brake fluid running ANY sort of dual purpose street/track pad or even a mild track pad. Besides, you are better off buying the cheaper ATE and changing it more frequently.

No doubt that Motul is better, but so is the castrol :-/

nsxtasy

I've gone through a lot of sets, maybe 5-10 sets. They've worked fine for me.

That's not what "rotor friendly" means. Some pads are more abrasive than others, meaning that they wear down the thickness of the rotors. That has nothing to do with cracking. With track use, any front rotors will eventually crack, in my experience, no matter what pads you're using, and before they get particularly thin.

And as far as fluids go, a difference of 57 degrees F in the boiling point is very significant. The ATE is okay, but the Motul is just better, plain and simple. I'm happy to pay the extra $15-20 per year for the extra insurance. To me, it's a no-brainer to get the Motul rather than the ATE. Brake fluid is not a place where I worry about saving a small amount of money.

trifenix

i wish i had motul at the event...

i had sticky tires
porterfield r4s pads (good for track and street imo...i will try axxis ultimates next time to compare)
new rotors
stock dot 3 fluid ftl.

and my fluid gave up.....that **** is scary when approaching a turn.

at the end of the day:
tires chunked and slightly greasy
pads were good no squeals
rotors were blue
brake fluid failing so spongy brakes.

racebum

the ultimates or hp+ would be a great starting pad.

motul 600 is great fluid. why run anything else?

if you can fade the above pads i would avoid the black/blues and go right to the ht-10 up front. your ultimates and plus's will probably still be fine out back. at least i would try that split and see how it works before you spend the money on track pads for both front and rear. the only thing you have to be careful about with the really high temp pads is vaporizing the rubber booty around the caliper piston. i guess careful is the wrong word to use since it basically just happens.

personally, i love ultimates for a street/autocross pad. as far as open lap day goes? i'll know sometime this summer when i get a chance to lap day @ PIR.

Stinkycheezmonky

Ultimates are a step below HP+'s, and will fade with track use. And trifinex man, that was just a bad call on using stock fluid

irev210

heh, yes - however there is a rather large amount of rotor missing, you should see the lip on my rotors, fairly significant. I know rotors will always crack, it is the frequency of cracking that I am trying to get down. My whole point is, more metal, less heat, less heat, less expansion, less expansion, less cracking. Hawk blues are not nice to rotors, they dont squeal, and worked pretty well though.

nsxtasy

WRONG. The dry boiling point is what matters on a tracked car. And the dry boiling point of Motul is better than the Castrol SRF (593F vs 590F). So in the case of Castrol SRF, you're getting zero benefit for a higher price.

Also WRONG. Which fails first depends on the pads and the fluid.

irev210

I actually found the spec, it is over 600F, thought I don't know how official it is. Even their website says "in excess of 300C"


Definitely agree with you on that one, I was talking about premium fluids (ate superblue/type200, motul 600, etc) and street/track pads (HP+) or mild track pads (blues, xp10,xr2, etc)