Okay, I know I don't have a Honda but eh. Just pretend.
My 240's paint is starting to fade now. I don't know what the deal is but my last 240sx had the same problem. The glossy red is dissapperaing on some areas giving an almost powderish white appearence. In simple terms, it just looks dirty but no matter what I do, it stuck there. So I don't know if polish would help or if waxing would. But it is getting annoying. I just want to get it fixed. I'm considering getting a paint job as a last resort but eh. I've read somewhere that you can take 2000 grit wet sandpaper and scrape off the top layers revealing the glossy layers underneath but I'm a bit skeptical on this. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

Sandpaper? Never heard of it. I would say NEVER< NEVER<NEVER use sandpaper.

Polishing compound is your friend. Follow the instructions, and then use a good wax. Go to any auto parts store for one.

Solid red and black can be a problem (like you described) if it was not taken care of.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GoLowDrew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sandpaper? Never heard of it. I would say NEVER&lt; NEVER&lt;NEVER use sandpaper.

Polishing compound is your friend. Follow the instructions, and then use a good wax. Go to any auto parts store for one.

Solid red and black can be a problem (like you described) if it was not taken care of.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Polishing compound? Elaborate.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Veil_Side_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Polishing compound? Elaborate. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ask for it by name. Some is call Rubbing compound. To me, they seem the same. Red and black paint turn white when oxidized. If it's oxidized really bad, go with rubbing compound. Read to can to determine which one will work better.

It's basically like a wax cleaner where you apply like a wax, and rub clean to remove the crap on the surface. You may have to go over it several time to really clean it. Compound is very abraisive (like sandpaper), so be careful, and not rub too hard, or more than necessary.

I like to use it with a rag that's a bit damp. It's been a long while (over 15 years) since I used it so I'm sure the technology changed. It (some) may not be clearcoat safe, so read it carefully.

Here is a part I'm not certain. Your Nissan color may not have clear coat because the paint is a solid color. Many say all paint job do, I recall reading somewhere that certain colors don't even today. The idea of clearcoat is to protect metallics. But most of today's colors are "mixed" even when they appear solid.

Follow with a nice coat of wax or polish.

Two most important points in summary:

- Follow instructions
- Don't rub too hard.

 

get it repainted?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> get a high speed buffer and use some rubbing compound first. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I used to own one, and never really liked it. End up giving it to someone because I just don't think it gives you the control necessary to do the job.

By hand is alot harder, but no shine is without work (and time).

 

I think youre looking at the effects of oxidation. Try using the meguiars or mother's cleaner and polish phases. Claybar is also worth a try.

third, have it detailed at a professional shop.

I would leave repainting as a last step unless you dont mind spending a few grand.

Good Luck.

aJ.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntEGNYC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Claybar is also worth a try.

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Clay removes surface contamination, not paint oxidation. Oxidation is chemical change in the paint. Contamination is just crap.