i am builing an ls/vtec, now i have USDM type r pistons on LS rods... since its N/A and i dont plan on revving like hell, should i keep the LS rods and get ARP rod bolts or save up and get eagle rods and be safe for a nice high redline? what do you think?

 

camannn!!!

 

stock rods are FINE!!.
shot peen them if your paranoid.
replace the rodbolts. ARP.

 

most people just use stock rods and ARP rod bolts. I am doing the same thing as you pretty soon. Let us know how it turns out.

 

so your saying stock LS rods are fine to rev to 8k... i dont think sizzoo! maby they will hold up for about 6K miles but then

 

so is you original post ASKING or TELLING what to use???

cuase i can personally vouch for STOCK LS rods able to hold up to 9000 RPMS for 18,752 miles as of today....

 

correct..... when you hear about rod problems associated with a hig revving ls/vtec, its the rod bolt that gives and leads to rod failure, thats why everyone is saying go with ARP. Stock rods are fine...

 

hmm... you idiots are making me think twice lol ;p


?

 

trust me, shot peen your stock LS rods if you are paranoid, they will be fine. I dont reccomend upgrading rods for most people going all motor. Stock rods are fine for MOST all motor applications and yours is one of them. And this idiot is also givin you the chance to save some money!!!

 

by the way, im runnin the same setup......and its fine....
shot peened LS rods with USDM ITR pistons and ARP rod bolts.

 

How much do shot peened rods usual run?

 

Do not shot peen your rods It only strengthens the outside of the rods , just thing of a Twinkie same effect. Cryo treating your rods is a much better solution.

 

it usually runs about $20 a rod to shot peen... anyway....

so youre saying that a shot peened rod is weaker than a stock rod? i never claimed that shot peening a rod made it as good as an aftermarket forged one, but its cheap insurance. And most local shops dont do "cryo treating". How much does that run?

 

yep. stock rods, arp rod bolts, pr3 pistons, nothin but good stuff to say!

-sander

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skribblah &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so your saying stock LS rods are fine to rev to 8k... i dont think sizzoo! maby they will hold up for about 6K miles but then </TD></TR></TABLE>

LMAO, 50k+ miles and going for me...sees 8500 at the track and i have a pretty nice stack of slips here...

 

Which bolts are you guys having the best luck with? ARP or Crower?

I have heard some great things about those Crower bolts.

 

damn the ls rods are puny.

 

You know what I learned over researching this block, i went to the source and talked to people that have been building Bseries motors for quite some time, for example Jeff and Jerry at importbuilders. LS rods and bolts are good to 8500, but with CTR/ITR cams, you don't even need to rev that high. BALANCING the bottom end assembly and RESIZING the rod is more important than the rod bolts. Any rod bolt wil eventually go if the rods are "OUT OF WOUND." If the motor operates smoothly, the bolts, whether stock or arp are going to work well for you. Here's another story... The guy who builds my motor , Has an all motor track LS/VTEC that saw a whole season with stock rods and bolts shifting at 9200, runs 11s. Also a guy on this board that races his LS/VTEC as well said he never had a stock rod bolt break on him, but the arp actually did and that's why he still uses stock. I forgot his HT name though. So now what do you say when you hear all that? This isn't heresay.... But it will make no difference with the arp bolts anyhow if the rods are out of wound and the bottom end rotating assembly isn't balanced. Go ahead and get the arp bolts and have the rods resized after that... either way is fine if done right.

Check out importreview.com and look under LS/VTEC built the right way

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecDA9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You know what I learned over researching this block, i went to the source and talked to people that have been building Bseries motors for quite some time, for example Jeff and Jerry at importbuilders. LS rods and bolts are good to 8500, but with CTR/ITR cams, you don't even need to rev that high. BALANCING the bottom end assembly and RESIZING the rod is more important than the rod bolts. Any rod bolt wil eventually go if the rods are "OUT OF WOUND." If the motor operates smoothly, the bolts, whether stock or arp are going to work well for you. Here's another story... The guy who builds my motor , Has an all motor track LS/VTEC that saw a whole season with stock rods and bolts shifting at 9200, runs 11s. Also a guy on this board that races his LS/VTEC as well said he never had a stock rod bolt break on him, but the arp actually did and that's why he still uses stock. I forgot his HT name though. So now what do you say when you hear all that? This isn't heresay.... But it will make no difference with the arp bolts anyhow if the rods are out of wound and the bottom end rotating assembly isn't balanced. Go ahead and get the arp bolts and have the rods resized after that... either way is fine if done right.

Check out importreview.com and look under LS/VTEC built the right way </TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree with u on everything except making power up to 8500, i make power all the way uo to 8500 easily on itr cams, but everything else u said

 

Koo...I was thinking about actual power seen on the dyno where you can see it fall off, not sure if that's what u were talking about... although i'm sure it can rev up there and still feel decent. Right on though...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...And most local shops dont do "cryo treating". How much does that run?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dono but its expensave and you pay by the pound...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecDA9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Koo...I was thinking about actual power seen on the dyno where you can see it fall off, not sure if that's what u were talking about... although i'm sure it can rev up there and still feel decent. Right on though... </TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, i am talkin dyno, my car makes power up there still, doesnt drop off contrary to belief

 

Nice... what's your setup?

 

Here's your answer: Shot-peen your LS rods if you must and get ARP rod bolts (this would be the very least you should do). Keep in mind that shot-peening will run $20-$30 per rod and ARPs will run about $100, for a total of about $180-$220. Eagle rods will run you about $300-$325 and come with the ARPs already. Price difference is not all that great. The way I see it, if you are already spending all kinds of cash on your motor and you have doubts about which rod setup to go with, put your mind at ease and just spend a few extra bucks to be sure of your build-up. YOUR MOTOR IS ONLY AS GOOD AS YOUR WEAKEST PARTS! I'm a firm beleiver in the old proverb: "If you're going to do something, do it right or don't do it at all!" ...Just my$.02

Here are 2 pics of LS rods (w/ CTR pistons) next to my Eagle rods (w/ forged SRP 11.5:1) just for reference. Sorry about the quality, these were taken with the shitty office camera before I got my Cybershot P9

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GM2000ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's your answer: Shot-peen your LS rods if you must and get ARP rod bolts (this would be the very least you should do). Keep in mind that shot-peening will run $20-$30 per rod and ARPs will run about $100, for a total of about $180-$220. Eagle rods will run you about $300-$325 and come with the ARPs already. Price difference is not all that great. The way I see it, if you are already spending all kinds of cash on your motor and you have doubts about which rod setup to go with, put your mind at ease and just spend a few extra bucks to be sure of your build-up. YOUR MOTOR IS ONLY AS GOOD AS YOUR WEAKEST PARTS! I'm a firm beleiver in the old proverb: "If you're going to do something, do it right or don't do it at all!" ...Just my$.02

Here are 2 pics of LS rods (w/ CTR pistons) next to my Eagle rods (w/ forged SRP 11.5:1) just for reference. Sorry about the quality, these were taken with the shitty office camera before I got my Cybershot P9

</TD></TR></TABLE>

SO you know, ARP rod bolts aren't anywhere near $100. I bought mine for under $50 and found a place on line recently that sells them for $36 for LS rod bolts.

I had shotpeened and polished LS rods on my old LSVTEC with arp rod bolts. Like many others have said, just make sure you balance the entire setup. When I took my bottom end to the machine shop, they couldn't get the crank anymore balanced and the same with the pistons. They said the only thing they had to do any modification to was the Rods.

Skribblah...don't take this the wrong way man. You make a post asking for help because you don't know what to do. Then when people who have REAL experience with the same set up, you tell them that they are wrong. That's BS and total disrespect. If you know, then don't ask. If you don't know, don't be shitty when you get an answer you aren't expecting.