Is it me or are all the RSB's for 5th gens ridiculously expensive? Paying $400 for a piece of metal seems a little ridiculous to me...not to say that i don't understand the importance of a RSB but i'm a little discouraged here.

anyone have any personal favorites or recommendations or tips (upgraded endlinks?). To tell you the truth i'm a little lost when it comes to 'lude suspensions after the whole coilover bit...who makes a good anti-lift kit? are tower bars necessary? sh*t are sway bars even necessary on a stock susp or should i focus on something else?

bottom line is: i hate understeer.

thanks guys

 

you can get a front and rear set of Suspension techniques for $220 on ebay.

Not sure of the performance of this brand though.

 

ack, this bar seems pretty shady. but it seems like the only choice i have.

i REFUSE to pay 484.70 or anything like that for a neuspeed rear sway...whiteline RSB's cost $150, perrin's 170...too bad they don't make em for lude's.

you ever wonder if companies charge through the nose for us honda owners because too many stupid people are willing to pay that much? my favorite is 5000+ for an ITR b18. haha you could almost buy an rb26dett with that kind of dough...yet people pay. (276 hp/274 lbft vs. 190 hp/150 lbft???)

oh well. i get the feeling that the aftermarket support for 5th gen isn't what it should be. c'mon manu's step up to the plate and broaden this market.

 

you can try to tighten up the rear end with a new bushing set. This will help a little in the understeer department... but not much. What you really need is a thicker bar. I don't get why they charge over double the price of the front bar when the front bar has more bends.

 

http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/S...shtml

there's a link to a review of the Suspension Technique swaybars. They seem to be a good buy.

 

Some people swear by the rear ST bar. Thats what I plan on getting. My friend also got a set for his civic and he loves them, no complaints yet.

 

Get the full kit from opt auto 245 Shipped. It is very nice the turns feel smoother and my car feels more planted

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ack, this bar seems pretty shady. but it seems like the only choice i have.

i REFUSE to pay 484.70 or anything like that for a neuspeed rear sway...whiteline RSB's cost $150, perrin's 170...too bad they don't make em for lude's.

oh well. i get the feeling that the aftermarket support for 5th gen isn't what it should be. c'mon manu's step up to the plate and broaden this market.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
The Neuspeed bar costs that much because it also comes with NEW BRACKETS while the ST bar doesn't.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joon525 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The Neuspeed bar costs that much because it also comes with NEW BRACKETS while the ST bar doesn't.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

On that note, how necessary are the new brackets? Is there a higher chance of failure without them? I've heard of people racing with the ST bar with no problems so I'm just curious if they're really worth it.

 

though not essential, new links are a good idea if the stock ones seem flimsy or are made out of a cheap brittle material. These kinds of connections are known to break under hard cornering because of the stress. Personally i don't know what the stock endlinks are like on my lude, but that somewhat justifies the cost, i guess.

i'm probably gonna go ST...i've been poking around though and apparently install is a little, troublesome...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by piotrush &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

On that note, how necessary are the new brackets? Is there a higher chance of failure without them? I've heard of people racing with the ST bar with no problems so I'm just curious if they're really worth it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What kind of racing? New L brackets (not endlinks) IMO are not necessary with the ST or Neuspeed bars because they are not that much stiffer than stock.

bad-monkey, what kind of driving are we talking about? Is it your daily driver? Have you done anything else to reduce understeer?

 

it's a daily driver but i'm also going to be auto-xing in it. currently she's bone stock but in the works are tein HA or SS coilovers (i hear the ha's are a little too stiff to daily drive...) the sway bar, 17" wheels and some lower profile tires. beyond that, driving in reverse is the only thing i can think of to get rid of understeer . i thought the RSB was a good place to start because i need a few months to save for the coilies.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's a daily driver but i'm also going to be auto-xing in it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If by 'going to be auto-xing in it', you mean you will be new to auto-xing, let me be the first (in a long line probably) of people who tell you to keep the car stock. Autocrossing is mostly about the driver. My first autocross, I saw a bone stock 92 Prelude Si beat a Ferarri 328 GTS by two seconds. Once you learn how to drive a course, what's happening on course, and what you can do about it, then you can figure out what you should change about your driving habits and what if anything about the car.
If you've autocrossed before, but not in the prelude, then just ignore me.

 

not a vet but i've thrown cars around the cones a few times. i'm also aware of the cornering limitations of my car as i've been trying very hard to wear out the tread on these p.o.s re92s . but i would still say there's a lot to learn. and all of these things won't happen right away, giving me time to get more experience auto-x'ing. hehe honestly i'm in no hurry to throw down tons of $$$ for stuff that i may or may not know how to use correctly. anyway, thanks for the insight.

 

The reason I mentioned it is because there is a 27mm (I think) adj. rear swaybar from Progress, and Saner has an adj. 25mm bar. Neither of these are things you want to mess with until you've got some time to at least know what's happening while you're out on course.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh well. i get the feeling that the aftermarket support for 5th gen isn't what it should be. c'mon manu's step up to the plate and broaden this market.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No manufacturer gives a **** about our cars anymore (Skunk2 for example) because they were discontinued. What we're getting is respect from those who realize that there is a large customer base, but most couldn't give a ****, especially when there are other new platforms out there that they can milk to death (the Si & RSX are examples).

The best price I've seen on the ST swaybars was at Tornactive for like $215 (plus the 10% H-T discount )

 

factory is a 23mm rear... wouldn't a 25mm be a better choice than a 27? Just curious as I haven't tried either yet, but with the front being a 25.4 in the 5th, wouldn't upping the rear to 25 and doing the poly bushings help? (btw the energy suspension mounts for the sway bars are actually larger across than the factory honda jobs, and the front ES works fine even though it was for a 25mm bar, but the end link bushings need to be shimmed out some)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rjr162 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">factory is a 23mm rear... wouldn't a 25mm be a better choice than a 27? Just curious as I haven't tried either yet, but with the front being a 25.4 in the 5th, wouldn't upping the rear to 25 and doing the poly bushings help? (btw the energy suspension mounts for the sway bars are actually larger across than the factory honda jobs, and the front ES works fine even though it was for a 25mm bar, but the end link bushings need to be shimmed out some)</TD></TR></TABLE>
If the 25mm bar is the same shape, design, and material, then it would be 40% stiffer, which would certainly help. And would probably be fine for daily driving. Choosing the right size is somewhat dependent on driver skill/style. Autocrossing is a good way to tune steer characteristics with tires, tire pressures, and driving techniques. Then figure how much help you need getting the car to rotate.