coolant bypass ???
Hey guys... sorry for this newb question...
I was looking at some integra website and there is how to section.
One of them is the coolant bypass...
I'm just wondering why ppl do that...
I know cooler air = higher density = more power... but there must be some drawbacks for doing that... altough they said it's ok if you dont live in a very cold weather condition.
The question is... are there any and what are the other possible problems that may be caused by this...
I don't really know much about car's engine, but I'm very interested to learn...
Thank u in advance.
I was looking at some integra website and there is how to section.
One of them is the coolant bypass...
I'm just wondering why ppl do that...
I know cooler air = higher density = more power... but there must be some drawbacks for doing that... altough they said it's ok if you dont live in a very cold weather condition.
The question is... are there any and what are the other possible problems that may be caused by this...
I don't really know much about car's engine, but I'm very interested to learn...
Thank u in advance.
The only drawback is when you are living near the north or south pole, the throttle body and IAC valve could get stuck because it's frozen....
Can you post the link of that How-To?
Can you post the link of that How-To?
http://members.aol.com/AJahed/mods.html
I'll copy and paste it here.
Coolant Bypass: This is a trick used on Group N and Group A Honda race cars. It is very simple, costs under $1.00, and takes about 15 minutes to perform. It involves disconnecting the two coolant lines that lead to the bottom of the throttlebody. DO NOT PERFORM THIS MOD WHEN THE CAR IS HOT, LET THE CAR COOL DOWN COMPLETELY. You will need a "straight hose connector", which can be found at any auto parts store. Disconnect the two coolant lines that lead to the bottom of the throttlebody. When you disconnect the pipes from the throttle body, coolant will leak out. Check your coolant level afterwards to make sure it is adequate. Insert the "straight connector" between the two lines and join them together. Use the clamps that are already on the pipes and secure them tightly on the "straight connector".
The purpose of this mod is to keep the coolant from heating up the throttle body. Although the throttle body will eventually heat up due to the heat transfer from the engine, it will be considerably cooler than before.
*This mod is not recommended for vehicles that operate in VERY cold climates.
==============================================
I tried this mod this morning... went to a local hardware store... got 10 mm in diameter (couldnt get a smaller one), 1 m in length aluminium pipe for AUS$3
did the mod.... but I cant feel any difference...
the only difference is that the TB is now cooler after something like 10km drive...
I think it will get hotter after some long drive, but not as hot as before...
U can touch TB now without getting burnt.
BUT !!! I can't feel any difference. Just want to make sure that it is not going to cause problem, then it's allright.
o yeahh... one more thing....
(*)There is a metal pipe from the valve cover to the intake, right?
a small one... maybe about 1 cm in outside diameter.
Under the pipe, welded to it is another metal pipe. That is the pipe of the coolant which is going in or out of the TB (not sure).
I bypass that pipe too, coz it heats up the pipe (*) which is from the valve cover to intake.
So basically it prevents the coolant to heat up that pipe too LOL
I'm not sure if that is OK...
Does anyone know what pipe that is, and what is it for?
I'll copy and paste it here.
Coolant Bypass: This is a trick used on Group N and Group A Honda race cars. It is very simple, costs under $1.00, and takes about 15 minutes to perform. It involves disconnecting the two coolant lines that lead to the bottom of the throttlebody. DO NOT PERFORM THIS MOD WHEN THE CAR IS HOT, LET THE CAR COOL DOWN COMPLETELY. You will need a "straight hose connector", which can be found at any auto parts store. Disconnect the two coolant lines that lead to the bottom of the throttlebody. When you disconnect the pipes from the throttle body, coolant will leak out. Check your coolant level afterwards to make sure it is adequate. Insert the "straight connector" between the two lines and join them together. Use the clamps that are already on the pipes and secure them tightly on the "straight connector".
The purpose of this mod is to keep the coolant from heating up the throttle body. Although the throttle body will eventually heat up due to the heat transfer from the engine, it will be considerably cooler than before.
*This mod is not recommended for vehicles that operate in VERY cold climates.
==============================================
I tried this mod this morning... went to a local hardware store... got 10 mm in diameter (couldnt get a smaller one), 1 m in length aluminium pipe for AUS$3

did the mod.... but I cant feel any difference...
the only difference is that the TB is now cooler after something like 10km drive...
I think it will get hotter after some long drive, but not as hot as before...
U can touch TB now without getting burnt.
BUT !!! I can't feel any difference. Just want to make sure that it is not going to cause problem, then it's allright.
o yeahh... one more thing....
(*)There is a metal pipe from the valve cover to the intake, right?
a small one... maybe about 1 cm in outside diameter.
Under the pipe, welded to it is another metal pipe. That is the pipe of the coolant which is going in or out of the TB (not sure).
I bypass that pipe too, coz it heats up the pipe (*) which is from the valve cover to intake.
So basically it prevents the coolant to heat up that pipe too LOL
I'm not sure if that is OK...
Does anyone know what pipe that is, and what is it for?
Let me tell you what I did. It's one step further than your's I think and it costs nothing.
There is one hose (#1) coming from the cyl head to that metal pipe you're talking about. Then from the other end of the metal pipe (#2) to the throttle body and from throttle body (#3) to IAC valve (behind the throttle body). From the IAC valve there is a hose (#4) to the connecting pipe of the water pump. What I did is remove hose #1,2 and 3 and use # 4 to connect the connecting pipe of the water pump directly to the cyl head. So I bypassed 3 things. I don't have that metal pipe anyway, because I don't have the stock intake tube.
There is one hose (#1) coming from the cyl head to that metal pipe you're talking about. Then from the other end of the metal pipe (#2) to the throttle body and from throttle body (#3) to IAC valve (behind the throttle body). From the IAC valve there is a hose (#4) to the connecting pipe of the water pump. What I did is remove hose #1,2 and 3 and use # 4 to connect the connecting pipe of the water pump directly to the cyl head. So I bypassed 3 things. I don't have that metal pipe anyway, because I don't have the stock intake tube.
did that to my G1 ZC Integra ....no noticable difference....but the seems to have less lag when the temp get really hot outside ..
in the winter ..(dallas winter) ...i have not had any problems ...even in 15 degree temperatures .....
in the winter ..(dallas winter) ...i have not had any problems ...even in 15 degree temperatures .....
Trending Topics
What is IAC valve?
I had a look at it yesterday, but not really sure which one u were talking about.
is it the one behind the TB, with a black round thing?
What does it do?
I had a look at it yesterday, but not really sure which one u were talking about.
is it the one behind the TB, with a black round thing?
What does it do?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boszyen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is IAC valve?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Idle air control.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Idle air control.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boszyen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it ok to bypass that too?</TD></TR></TABLE>Yes, except when it gets really cold like -30 deg C or something....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlowCivicHmm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so baically connect the Cylinder head hose to the hose from the IACV that goes to the water pump??</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, use only the hose from the IACV to the water pump pipe. It's long enough. Pull it out of the IACV and connect it to the cyl head. You don't need anything extra...
No, use only the hose from the IACV to the water pump pipe. It's long enough. Pull it out of the IACV and connect it to the cyl head. You don't need anything extra...
bypassed the IAC thing... but I haven't started the car yet...
went to see 2fast2furious
the cars were ok... but I wasnt very interested
we see skyline, s2k, supra, evo everyday in OZ
It would be nice if they have the ITR hahaha
the hose is long enough, btw.
went to see 2fast2furious
the cars were ok... but I wasnt very interested
we see skyline, s2k, supra, evo everyday in OZ
It would be nice if they have the ITR hahaha
the hose is long enough, btw.
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