I've just recently acquired an 18C shorty that's built with the following:

Eagle rods
Wiseco 12.5:1 pistons
ITR cams
Toda gears

It currently makes about mid 190ish to the ground on stock injectors.

I wanna do this right and be reliable as I intend to run it on at least 4-6 HPDE events/season + it is my daily grinder.

I scored a set of JUN 3 cams bare, no retainers, no springs. I plan to use Toda springs with portflow rets. Any objections to this combo? I've read on searches that the Toda springs will not bind even at the JUNs lift etc.

My new fuel system is going to be RC 310s/ 400s ? (another score) plus an S200.

Am I missing anything else besides the obvious, tuning?


WAIT! Timing belt!

 

Nobody has comments?

interesting....

 

what header are you running?

I wouldn invest in getting hondata running before putting the jun cams in

see how you like the car tuned wiht a good header with itr cams. then see if you want to put jun cams in

keep it simple

 

Pretty high compression for just ITR cams correct..? or are they just part-time?

 

the cams are part-time.

got this motor off a buddy and his money burned down before he could finish it with high lift cams. I already have somebody who's interested in the ITR sticks and it just makes sense for the moment.

Header is going to be the bottle neck right now. But I got the cams at a steal so I figure why not throw them in and save up $$ for the header later on.

If nobody really can see anything wrong with this setup...I'm going ahead. OH and I have an S200 already ..just really need to buy the injectors!

 

as art says: Keep It Simple Stupid

considering i work for acompany that makes cams. i still think its best to have supporting mods before you put your cams in. it wont cause any damage. but why not get mild cams that will make the same or more hp with your engine and a good header compared to a weak header and big cams

same **** like your tranny. this could go downhill. cams cause more stress on the valvetrain. its always best to have better flow for intake and exhaust than to run big *** cams to make power due to inefficency with breathing

but thats just my opinion

 

soundslike you have a longblock and not a shortblock.

toda springs and jun cams good combo

370-440 recommended

toda/power belt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sgT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">soundslike you have a longblock and not a shortblock.

toda springs and jun cams good combo

370-440 recommended

toda/power belt
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the reply. Well the motor came in two pieces....so yes technically it's the longblock... but since it's apart ...I dunno what I was thinking... and mentioned shorty.

I'll take your advice to the bank and start dropping coin.

Thanks again for all who have replied!

 

itr outers, portflow inners, and stock retainers is what i've been recommended to do. titanium retainers tend to crack.

 

Add a FPR will your spending the money.

Save up for the header and exhaust

 

Running Toda springs and Portflow retainers with no problems to date-on cams bigger than Jun3's.

 

Go 440`s.

 

I've never heard of a Ti retainer cracking. I've heard of them being galled by the valvesprings, but never cracking. Unless someone left Ti Retainers on so long that they galled until they were paper thin and then they cracked.

You must remember that Ti Retainers are a wear item, just like a clutch. They don't last forever.

 

I talked with Tom @ portflow

he was saying I was the only person to have busted a ti retainer. and im 90% sure that was not the ti retainers fault on why that happended.

i think the ti retainer gauling thing on high quality retainers (portflow, ferrea) and others is more of a myth.

does anyone know of a portflow ti retainer breaking?

 

tom @ portflow is the ****, you can believe what he says. i have seen people have retainer problems due to improper valve adjustments, that's it. if you run the valves too loose they don't run near the cam the entire time and end up slapping against the retainer on every rotation. this can wear them thin and eventually lead to failure. as long as the car is properly maintained you shouldn't have a problem.