Ive searched and searched and there wasnt really any good topics on this so why not start one in the right forum now?

Im comming up on some cash flow pretty soon and originally wanted to resleeve my block to 84.5mm to get that 2.0L feeling
But have decided against that being that i dont think im that big of a racer to justify spending all of that money on my car. So ive opted for just putting in slightly higher compression aftermarket/pistons. Being that the case, im in need of some aftermarket rods. Right?

The three big names ive heard more of are

1. Crower
2. Eagles
3. Pauter

I havent heard anything bad from the crowers but mostly all of the FI guys are running them, im not even sure if ill be putting down 200WHP so why would i need a rod that will hold for that much?

But on the eagles ive heard that they are not good for High RPM's including i belive that Eagle its self states that they are not good for High RPM applications but then what really is high rpm to them? 8K? 9K 10K??

Any other rods youve heard of or reccomend and most importanly WHY? For N/A?

Okay now discuss.....

 

also probe racing from import builders and cuningham to name a couple

 

cunninghams are money....

 

Crower is overkill, you won't need something that strong for NA set-up... I was under the impression that eagle was great for NA...

 

crower isnt overkill

 

carrillo

 

If you have the money, Crower is a very good rod. I have beat the heck out of my Crower rod equipped motor- 9,500 rpm redline which the motor sees almost daily. Plus one trip to 12,000 + on a mis-shift at the track, so far no problems. I have heard about the problem with the Eagle rods, and it has been suggested that the rod bolts are the weak link. I have another block put together with Eagle rods,ran it about 1,000 miles under the same stress without incident, so rather than replacing the rods, I am just going to upgrade the rod bolts.
Summary-Crower rods
Eagle rods-??

 

From an engineering standpoint all the aftermarket connecting rod designs are strong enough for all motor applications. The largest difference in the rod design is the rod bolt size that is used. Under naturally aspirated cylinder pressure the loading on the rods in compression/tension rise expotentially with RPM's. If you are going to keep the stock 8-8.5K redline the Eagles will work sufficiently with their 8mm rod bolts. If you are taking the redline up past 9K towards 10K (ridiculous for any street application and cam profiles usuable on the street), you are going to need the larger rod bolts available with Crower, Pauter, Manley or Cunningham. They vary between 10-12mm depending on what specific rod model they are (made specifically for N/A or boost). I personally have used Eagles in two boosted engine's with 9K redline, zero problems. The first Eagle rods I used were the older 8mm rod bolt style, the newer rod bolt style which I am using now are 10mm. You see roughly a 15% increase in tensile strength of the bolt from the 8mm size to the 10mm size. This translates into the rod's ability to handle roughly 1000 more rpm.

 

My next motor is probably gonna have custom Billet Aluminum Rods with the biggest rod bolts ARP Makes...

Light = Fast

Suprdave

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From an engineering standpoint all the aftermarket connecting rod designs are strong enough for all motor applications. The largest difference in the rod design is the rod bolt size that is used. Under naturally aspirated cylinder pressure the loading on the rods in compression/tension rise expotentially with RPM's. If you are going to keep the stock 8-8.5K redline the Eagles will work sufficiently with their 8mm rod bolts. If you are taking the redline up past 9K towards 10K (ridiculous for any street application and cam profiles usuable on the street), you are going to need the larger rod bolts available with Crower, Pauter, Manley or Cunningham. They vary between 10-12mm depending on what specific rod model they are (made specifically for N/A or boost). I personally have used Eagles in two boosted engine's with 9K redline, zero problems. The first Eagle rods I used were the older 8mm rod bolt style, the newer rod bolt style which I am using now are 10mm. You see roughly a 15% increase in tensile strength of the bolt from the 8mm size to the 10mm size. This translates into the rod's ability to handle roughly 1000 more rpm. </TD></TR></TABLE>


I totally agree i have expereince the aftermath of a eagle rods but it was my own fault, even the 8mm rod bolts on the eagle rods are way strong enough for a street application. I used eagle rods in my race motor for a whole season of racing close to 200 passes with a few miss shifts. i rebuilt the motor for this year using the rods and didn't replace the bolts with new ones and it was the first thing to go after only 15 passes. in closeing the eagle rods itself arent the weak link its the bolts.... replace them!

 

cunninghams work great with our setup. they are lightweight and sturdy. the price for the rods is steep but well worth it.

 

So basically what all of you guys are saying is that any after market rod is a strong enough rod for N/A but that there weakness is in the rod bolts correct?

And also that eagles are a good enough application for me, but that if i can afford it to get maybe stronger rod bolts for them?

Any other benifits from the eagle rods other than strength? Weight?

 

Just run them as-is yo. Don't over-torque the rod bolts and don't over-rev.

Suprdave

 

i have some REV rods that are H-beam design that are very nice for the money. $375 for the set. Looks like a set of Crowers.

 

is there a size differance in the rod bolts on all the different B series motors? from b16-b18-type-r?

ive seen plenty of b16's and type-r's on stock bottom ends hold 9-9500 and end up being motors that last.

my PERSONAL experiance with bottom ends, honda did a good job. unless its a high high mile motor and needs refreshing, i wouldnt even open it up. again, my PERSONAL experiance and opinion.

 

Hey your a mechanic...change our Probe Ultralites for your crowers and watch your HP go up.

And they ae 1/2 the price.

with 9 MM rod bolts that torque at 38. I think the crowers are 10 Mm that torque at 50...

and eagle is 8 MM that torques at like 28.

Probe rods are the best on earth for the money. We sell a GRIP of them.

They are in Jerry's 262 WHP all motor engine, and 100 others.

Jeff

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suprdave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My next motor is probably gonna have custom Billet Aluminum Rods with the biggest rod bolts ARP Makes...

Light = Fast

Suprdave</TD></TR></TABLE>

Aluminum is not good for fatigue loading. You'd have to replace the rods every couple miles.....

 

What's the price on the probes?

 

shotpeened stock rods with ARP rod bolts!!!!!

Thats all you'll need for 200whp, everyday all day. i ran mine to 8500rpms no problems

 

wow..finally a rod thread!
what do you guys think of these ProSpeed Performance Rods??? Their "Light-Weight for High RPM"!

^^click on image^^

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ImportReview &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey your a mechanic...change our Probe Ultralites for your crowers and watch your HP go up.

And they ae 1/2 the price.

with 9 MM rod bolts that torque at 38. I think the crowers are 10 Mm that torque at 50...

and eagle is 8 MM that torques at like 28.

Probe rods are the best on earth for the money. We sell a GRIP of them.

They are in Jerry's 262 WHP all motor engine, and 100 others.

Jeff</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmmm those seem like reasonable rods...and anything that jeff uses i can use Might have to go with these....PROBE

and as far as what chicken head said...i cant use stock rods on an aftermarket piston so shotpeening the rod will do nothing for me or others that have any other aftermarket piston.

 

damn link never works!
http://www.prospeed-performance.com
-enter site
-under "Prospeed Products" (left side of screen)
-click on "Ultralight Rods"

 

On Domestics, big power motors usually last about 60 Nitrous Passes on Aluminum Rods. It would be for lightweight, only...I might get a custom, lightweight Steel Rod or something else that doesn't stretch as much...so I can run alot tighter piston-head.

Suprdave

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 10K2HVN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow..finally a rod thread!
what do you guys think of these ProSpeed Performance Rods??? Their "Light-Weight for High RPM"!

^^click on image^^</TD></TR></TABLE>

if the rods are like their customer service, they can go eat a dick

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheRedSkoolingBus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

and as far as what chicken head said...i cant use stock rods on an aftermarket piston so shotpeening the rod will do nothing for me or others that have any other aftermarket piston.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can run aftremarket pistons on stock rods, just bush the ends.