Jun Type 3 Cams
yes jun stage 3 here was that your only ?
there's just one more thing 2.0L b18c5 did you get the jun kit or is that bs
[Modified by kitkatR, 2:26 PM 7/16/2001]
there's just one more thing 2.0L b18c5 did you get the jun kit or is that bs
[Modified by kitkatR, 2:26 PM 7/16/2001]
u wont be happy with jun cams unless u raise your compression to 11:1. Also a vafc to tune fuel settings. JUN ecu is way overpriced , youll be fine with ITR ecu and vafc
My compression 12.5:1 fully built itr block 84.5mm bore, fully built gsr head, using a 2layer head gasket as well , hondata, etc....etc.....this is a full race motor. I just need some really good cams......
hey if you got a full built race motor why not go vtec killers, seems you wanna go ***** out - ferrea - has a set coming out, toda just came out with theirs i believe
, I'm sure you would be happy with jun stage 3 though
, I'm sure you would be happy with jun stage 3 though
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ITR 1236' car is plenty quick. When I race him he SMOKES my *** after I beat him off the line. I just purchased JUN 3's, APEXi power FC, Mugen Headgasket and I am soon ordering that new Electric Water pump thing.
I cant wait why why why does half the stuff sit in my room and stare at me.
I cant wait why why why does half the stuff sit in my room and stare at me.
I know how ya feel, for over a month had my spoony rims sittin in my room in their boxes, w/ my cams, gears, springs all sitting in my room...very frustrating to say the least, but i can honestly say it was all worth it now <sigh> memories
BTW let me know what you dyno out to w/ those stage 3's on your block, we have almost the same set up, other than that my head is still an ITR...like to compare dyno charts, Eric
[Modified by NAB20C5, 9:00 AM 7/17/2001]
BTW let me know what you dyno out to w/ those stage 3's on your block, we have almost the same set up, other than that my head is still an ITR...like to compare dyno charts, Eric
[Modified by NAB20C5, 9:00 AM 7/17/2001]
Anyone have experience with the JUN 1 or 2 cams? I'm sure they would be more comparable to the Spec A Toda cams. Am I wrong?
Probably some killer power on the street. All the power where u need it, shift at 8300 or so and fall in your torque band.
That's why I love my Spec A cams. Way better than Spec B in my opinion.
Probably some killer power on the street. All the power where u need it, shift at 8300 or so and fall in your torque band.
That's why I love my Spec A cams. Way better than Spec B in my opinion.
Hey mike, do you have any dyno plots of your spec A setup?
There's a local R owner who is interested in spec A's... And I skipped them for the B's a long time ago.
What is your setup, btw? I need to recommend something to him.
If you live in California (the mecca of custom import parts and service), and you are building a "race" motor - why don't you use custom grinds??
I doubt that Jun3s/TodaB/C will be adequate for your motor since it's bigger bore and stroke than the B16/18, which is the block they were intended for.
If you want to fully realize the potential of that motor - you will need custom cams.
I doubt that Jun3s/TodaB/C will be adequate for your motor since it's bigger bore and stroke than the B16/18, which is the block they were intended for.
If you want to fully realize the potential of that motor - you will need custom cams.
why don't i want to use custom regrind cams???........yea i'm building my motor for a full race but i will be driving it on the streets every friday & sat. nites...........street races............................................. .......N.Kali
Hey Slower,
I got that electric water pump.
Let me save you some time right now, we had to drill two 5/32 holes in the thermostat. With no holes, it overheats. I originally had 3 holes, but it ran too cold. With two holes it stay within the lower to middle of the temp range on stock gauge.
Hopefully this thing adds some power
Good luck!
FB
I got that electric water pump.
Let me save you some time right now, we had to drill two 5/32 holes in the thermostat. With no holes, it overheats. I originally had 3 holes, but it ran too cold. With two holes it stay within the lower to middle of the temp range on stock gauge.
Hopefully this thing adds some power

Good luck!
FB
what pulls harder? the type 3's? or the spec B's?
and to the person with the spec A's... you said it's perfect for the streets? what do you mean? I'm planning to go with type 3's and my car never sees the track or drag strip... pure street car that just wants to smoke mustangs and camaros...
and to the person with the spec A's... you said it's perfect for the streets? what do you mean? I'm planning to go with type 3's and my car never sees the track or drag strip... pure street car that just wants to smoke mustangs and camaros...
ITR1236's car is the fast enough to stay within 2 car lengths of my back bumper
in a drag race and I run 13.4 in Utah (12.5 at sea level)
highly suggest the stage 3's
in a drag race and I run 13.4 in Utah (12.5 at sea level)
highly suggest the stage 3's
Thanks for the tip Berkel. How is your idle and how low have you been able to get it. I have quite and efficient cooling system right now but the electric water pump did make me worry a little
Hey ZZ4Z28 or should I say Mark hehe are you gonna ride with john to the expo.
Hey ZZ4Z28 or should I say Mark hehe are you gonna ride with john to the expo.
what's the duration on the VTEC lobe at 1mm valve lift for the Jun Type 3?
advertised duration at 0.001 in. often overestimates true duration and the standard to compare cam duration profiles for import cams is at 1mm lift. So the 304 degree advertised duration for the Jun Type 3 cams are misleading.
advertised duration at 0.001 in. often overestimates true duration and the standard to compare cam duration profiles for import cams is at 1mm lift. So the 304 degree advertised duration for the Jun Type 3 cams are misleading.
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