I have a ITR for track racing , I have SK2 cams & valve train , JG intake , 4-2-1 header and ss exhaust line , Mugen ECU , etc... No I want some more power , what can I expect from a B20 shortblock with the ITR head on it ? I am now reving my Euro ITR B18C6 up to 9.100 rpm , will the B20 do that ?
What should I look for B20 from an CR-V or B20B or B20Z what's the difference ?
What do I need to know when doing this ?
Who has done this and whats the experiance. I am doing endurance races of 3 hours , I blew up my ITR engine last weekend and I need start all over again but I want some more power because I am racing in the 2.0 liter class.
Please help
Thanks

Douglas
Belgium Europe

 

ok you can start by doing seach about how ls-vtec and b20vtec work!
if you already have a blown ITR block i would idvise you to keep it and just bore it out to 84.5mm and you will have a 2.0 dohc vtec motor with a stock rod to stroke ratio.

B20 and LS vtec block have a different rod to stroke ratio that sucks for high reving past about 7500rpms. The can go higher but the block/sleeves will have more wear and it will show on the pistons. many people i have spoken to say that if you race you B20/LS vtec motor a lot, the sleeves & pistons need to be replaced every 15,000 miles do to hard driving.

If you do plan on reving to 9,100rpms on long endurace races i would bore it to 84.5mm and call it a day!

 

gsr block
stroker kit
sleeved
87mm bore
13:1
toda spec cs

 

yeah then when he blows the 87 bore he has to start over again

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you do plan on reving to 9,100rpms on long endurace races i would bore it to 84.5mm and call it a day!</TD></TR></TABLE>

roger that. Dont use a b20vtec, esp when it's a 3 hrs high reving race. Rebuild your ITR block with sleeves bore out to 84.5mm. Maybe aftermarket LSD to put the power to the wheel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chusai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">roger that. Dont use a b20vtec, esp when it's a 3 hrs high reving race. Rebuild your ITR block with sleeves bore out to 84.5mm. Maybe aftermarket LSD to put the power to the wheel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes... remember if you bore the block it will appear to be under 2l. which can be a good thing. If you bore to 85 then you will be able to service the engine one more time before stepping up to larger pistons, then from there you'll start over. Sleeve your block and bore it out, there is lots of power to be had without taking on the extra weight of the B20 block, which is really minimal.

 

If anything, the B20 block is probably lighter than the B18C block.

 

B18C
Sleeved
85mm
&gt;12:1 cr
HONDATA (get it tuned!)
..Skunk cams and Mugen ECU doesnt sound like you have it tuned very well..so Hondata it up and slap it on the dyno!

 

ahhh..! even better !!!
DART B20 Tall Deck (84.5mm bore with 14mm higher deck!)
89mm crank (B18A/B/B20..prefer Eagle 89mm)
Youll have the the TORQUE CURVE of a B20 and a better REV RANGE then a B17A!!!! A Rod/Stroke Ratio of 1.69!!!! Thats way better then B18C's 1.58..and the B17a (1.625)!


..i had to do a lot of reseaching and number crunching on this...


Modified by 10K2HVN at 4:41 AM 6/6/2003

 

Even better convert a B16 to a Dart Tall Block and get like a 2.00 rod ratio....you could sit at 7000 for a while. Yet still have the 1.8L-1.9L

 

peep the sig! its great info.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Westrock2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Even better convert a B16 to a Dart Tall Block and get like a 2.00 rod ratio....you could sit at 7000 for a while. Yet still have the 1.8L-1.9L</TD></TR></TABLE>
...you can do that too..but you wouldnt have as much torque.. ..and constant high rpms will kill your bearings and rings really fast...

edit: ..you can convert a B16 into the tall DART block then slap on a turbo too!!! then youll have an CART racing engine...lol &lt;me!

 

check this out

www.b20vtec.com

very good website for 2.0 hondas

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 10K2HVN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ahhh..! even better !!!
DART B20 Tall Deck (84.5mm bore with 14mm higher deck!)
89mm crank (B18A/B/B20..prefer Eagle 89mm)
Youll have the the TORQUE CURVE of a B20 and a better REV RANGE then a B17A!!!! A Rod/Stroke Ratio of 1.69!!!! Thats way better then B18C's 1.58..and the B17a (1.625)!


..i had to do a lot of reseaching and number crunching on this...


Modified by 10K2HVN at 4:41 AM 6/6/2003</TD></TR></TABLE>


yesssssssss!!!!!, that would be sweet. high RS is key.

-sander

 

Hi Guys

I finaly bought a B18C1 blocke sleved up to 85mm by AEBS , I'll swapp all my Stuff over form my ITR and have a CR 12.5:1 and hope to make 220 WHP , is this realistic ????

 

most people seemed to forget that he was racing the in the 2 litre class, not the 2.1 litre.
I'm guessing 2002 cc's is enough to flunk you out of there. Anything with more than 85.25 bore and 87.2 stroke will get your fudge packed in.

 

Hi,

Thanks for the reply , I found this pretty handy website to calculate all I need
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...c.php

How abouth the 220 WHP ?? any one ?