Hey guys, just came here from the now dead civic.indybbs.net. I hope you guys can help me out. This is my first post and I am sure this has been asked 100 times and I will apologize in advance for repeating it .

I am going to do a swap into my 1996 Civic Hatch. I am just trying to decide if I will go with the B16A2 or the B18C. Since I am completely new, I do understand the stock power ratings for both engine, knowing that the B18C has 10 more stock horse's and what not. My question is this, is it worth paying the extra $1000 or so for the B18C over the B16A2?

Any opinions would be great...
Thanks guys

P.S. Just watched super2nr and congrats on the victory over the Nissans

 

go with the GSR

 

i dont think you would be that satisfied with a b16 i say go with the gsr

p.s welcome to honda-tech, get use to the search thingy. People dont like to see the same post over and over

 

First of all the Search function is your friend here at H-T.

Secondly:

I have owned a B18C1 (now sold), B16A2 (still own), and a B18C5 (still own) swap all in the exact same 1992 Si chassis.

The B18C1 was in my old 1992 Si hatch while the B16A2 is in my fiancee's 1992 Si hatchback. Both engine had the same mods (i/h/e) but the B16A2 also had a re-chipped P28 ECU and AEM cam gears.

The B18C1 did 150whp/122 ft-lbs. of torque.

The B16A2 did 143whp/102 ft-lbs. of torque.

Bottom line was that at any rpm, any speed, any gear, the B18C1 would outpulll the B16A2 EVERY time. From a dead stop the B18C1 hatch would beat the B16A2 by at least 2-3 car lenghts every time.

Both engines were awesome (the B16A2 still is since we still have it) and are both fun as hell to drive, but the B18C1 is just better in every aspect IMO from personal experience.

The only reason I ever sold my B18C1 was because I got an entire totalled ITR (the source for my current B18C5) for only $4,000.00. I sold my B18C1 for $3,500.00 and got an upgrade in the B18C5.

The B18C1 is very versatile. If you ever wanted to go all-motor or stay stock motor + bolt-ons then the B18C1 will be much better than the B16A. The only slight disadvantage from an all-motor standpoint for the B18C1 is the slightly longer gearing of it's tranny, but equal mods vs. equal mods and the B18C1 will still be faster than the B16A2.

Add a B16A or Type R tranny to any stock or all-motor B18C1 and it'll be that much better.

The B18C1 is great for boost to wether it's the JRSC or a turbo. A lot of local JRSC B18C1 here in ATL have no problem going over 200whp and some have been driven for over 2 years with no problems whatsoever.

Turbo'd B18C1 motors can range from 220whp-250whp (very mild turbo, no build on engine) all the way up to and over 500whp.

Is the B18C1 worth the extra $1,000.00 over the B16A2 though?

That's up to you. Can you really afford the extra money? If so then I'd say do it.

 

ya the b18 also has a bit more torque and that really makes a difference when your racing, and its just easier for daily driving.

 

buy b16 head, gsr/itr block, and b16 tranny

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igotyofire &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">buy b16 head, gsr/itr block, and b16 tranny </TD></TR></TABLE>

good suggestion for performance but all the little **** that comes with a full swap really adds up when you try to find it seperately. plus you will need tohave a builder assemble the whole thing. $

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igotyofire &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">buy b16 head, gsr/itr block, and b16 tranny </TD></TR></TABLE>
thats wut i'm doin

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igotyofire &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">buy b16 head, gsr/itr block, and b16 tranny </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats what i got, b16 head, itr valvetrain, ctr intake cam, b18c1 block, jdm itr pistons, balanced bottom end, mugen chipped p28, i/h/e with this setup i have taking out my friends hb w/ a b18c5 with skunk ecu, i/h/e, he ran a 14.3 in the 1/4 and i ran 13.8. havn't dynoed it but plan on doing it in about a month, i will post the results when its done, thanks

 

Sweet. Thanks alot guys for the replies and so f'ing quickly . I will let you know when I actually get a new mix up on my site and let you all leech. Cheers and thanks for all the advice... I will be a regular from now on

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First of all the Search function is your friend here at H-T.

Secondly:

I have owned a B18C1 (now sold), B16A2 (still own), and a B18C5 (still own) swap all in the exact same 1992 Si chassis.

The B18C1 was in my old 1992 Si hatch while the B16A2 is in my fiancee's 1992 Si hatchback. Both engine had the same mods (i/h/e) but the B16A2 also had a re-chipped P28 ECU and AEM cam gears.

The B18C1 did 150whp/122 ft-lbs. of torque.

The B16A2 did 143whp/102 ft-lbs. of torque.

Bottom line was that at any rpm, any speed, any gear, the B18C1 would outpulll the B16A2 EVERY time. From a dead stop the B18C1 hatch would beat the B16A2 by at least 2-3 car lenghts every time.

Both engines were awesome (the B16A2 still is since we still have it) and are both fun as hell to drive, but the B18C1 is just better in every aspect IMO from personal experience.

The only reason I ever sold my B18C1 was because I got an entire totalled ITR (the source for my current B18C5) for only $4,000.00. I sold my B18C1 for $3,500.00 and got an upgrade in the B18C5.

The B18C1 is very versatile. If you ever wanted to go all-motor or stay stock motor + bolt-ons then the B18C1 will be much better than the B16A. The only slight disadvantage from an all-motor standpoint for the B18C1 is the slightly longer gearing of it's tranny, but equal mods vs. equal mods and the B18C1 will still be faster than the B16A2.

Add a B16A or Type R tranny to any stock or all-motor B18C1 and it'll be that much better.

The B18C1 is great for boost to wether it's the JRSC or a turbo. A lot of local JRSC B18C1 here in ATL have no problem going over 200whp and some have been driven for over 2 years with no problems whatsoever.

Turbo'd B18C1 motors can range from 220whp-250whp (very mild turbo, no build on engine) all the way up to and over 500whp.

Is the B18C1 worth the extra $1,000.00 over the B16A2 though?

That's up to you. Can you really afford the extra money? If so then I'd say do it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
tom, i know you didnt just copy and paste this from pretty much the same post from a week ago did you&gt;?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R you serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
tom, i know you didnt just copy and paste this from pretty much the same post from a week ago did you&gt;? </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R you serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
tom, i know you didnt just copy and paste this from pretty much the same post from a week ago did you&gt;? </TD></TR></TABLE>

A tired question gets a tired response...

 

gsr

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R you serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
tom, i know you didnt just copy and paste this from pretty much the same post from a week ago did you&gt;? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually I typed this one up fresh because I could not find any of the other 15 times I've copied and pasted the same type of response so many times before.

He's new to the site, and he asked what seems to be an honest question and he hasn't replied with any smart-assed replies so he's good in my book.

Plus sometimes the search isn't good for "motor X vs. motor Y" topics so it's no big deal IMO.

 

fastest, and best bang for the buck.

buy a b16a1 swap. 1400 shipped or so.
buy a b18c block, and used type r pistons/rods on ebay. around 200-300.
then sell the b16 shortblock that u dont need. ive seen these go for around 700.
so now u have
b18c with type r internals, and a b16 tranny. i wouldnt stop there but u could.

total now would be 1500 ranging depending on how much u sell the short block for and how much the parts u buy.

then, you could buy all new valve train, either ctr cams or some skunk2s, i/h/e and u will have a beast motor that would be faster then a type r for a good price.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastwanabe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">gsr </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

B18C5-EH2, cheers for the help. I do realize it was my own mistake for not searching the board more throughly as I knew this question had to have been asked 100 times. I apologize and promise next time I will search more. I had no idea this board was this huge at all and really was not expecting this sort of support. Thanks alot guys, and if you are into breakbeat I will push out a mix for you guys this week.

Looks like I have settled on going with the extra bucks and just buying a B18C complete. Then next season trick it out. Up here in Canada we only have a limited season .

Once again, thanks for the support.

 

i see u disregarded my info. but ok thats cool. b18cs are always fun.... even to there more expensive and not as fast.

 

what Tom(B18C5-EH2) said


Here's my experiences with both engines in a hb. I felt the B16 pulls pretty fast due to it's gear ratio but what I noticed is that it lacked that extra power I felt when I drive a b18c hb. at low speeds and rpms I had to kinda "wait" for the b16 to rev up a little just to enjoy the power, where in the b18c I didn't have to "wait" for the power, it's avaiable right there due to the two-stage intake manifold. just my .02

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugensport9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i see u disregarded my info. but ok thats cool. b18cs are always fun.... even to there more expensive and not as fast.</TD></TR></TABLE>

mugensport9, I didn't disregard it at all just that sort of work isn't in the cards at the moment. I really want to get my 96 on the road A.S.A.P. I am still driving my 'winter beater' (91 Civic SI HB) and winter ended awhile ago . By the middle of next winter I promise you I will have almost exactly what you have said done. Thank you for the awesome suggestions .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugensport9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i see u disregarded my info. but ok thats cool. b18cs are always fun.... even to there more expensive and not as fast.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so youre saying you can buy a b18c1 block with type-r internals for 200-300$ and then sell a b16 block for 700$. good luck with that. and if you are building an na motor to rival an itr you should be seriously considering an lsd.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugensport9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fastest, and best bang for the buck.

buy a b16a1 swap. 1400 shipped or so.
buy a b18c block, and used type r pistons/rods on ebay. around 200-300.
then sell the b16 shortblock that u dont need. ive seen these go for around 700.
so now u have
b18c with type r internals, and a b16 tranny. i wouldnt stop there but u could.

total now would be 1500 ranging depending on how much u sell the short block for and how much the parts u buy.

then, you could buy all new valve train, either ctr cams or some skunk2s, i/h/e and u will have a beast motor that would be faster then a type r for a good price.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

considering you will have the gsr crank, a b16 head that doesnt flow as well as the itr, no lsd, inferior clutch and flywheel from the original b16a1 swap,and a b16 intake manifold... youre not beating anyone with an itr swap, plus you will have paid just as much after installation of all your new goodies. there is not an easy and cheap solution to making good relaible power, you have to pay to play.

save up and get a b18c1 swap. then sell the tranny if you stay na, or get a turbo. leave it at that.

 

i just got back from the tracks last night, a 99 hatchback with a b16a2 swap with some falken cheap 195 running 15psi, launching off at 5500 RPM reaction times were .528 doing 60 footers 2.3 but yeah my buddy with that car ran 15.4 best all stock just a short ram and exhaust

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by euclid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so youre saying you can buy a b18c1 block with type-r internals for 200-300$ and then sell a b16 block for 700$. good luck with that. and if you are building an na motor to rival an itr you should be seriously considering an lsd. </TD></TR></TABLE>
no the block would be about 400-600 but used itr internals are on ebay for 200-300. if u dont believe me go check it out. and b16 short blocks go for up to 700.