I have the afc hack on my car, 2000 civic ex turbo. Ran smooth, no idle or startup problems. I just converted to obd1 with a p28 and the car doesn't idle as smooth, but drives much smoother. I had to unplug my evap purge solenoid as some people recommened for the idle to be a little better. Now... i've noticed something. The hack tends to run better (from what i've seen) on obd2 cars. I installed the afc hack on 2 obd1 cars personally, and I did mine. I was talking to some people that have obd1 with the hack as well as some with it on obd2. It seems as if all the obd1 people have some kind of idle or startup problems (one of the obd1 and one of the obd2 cars were using RC injectors and the rest were all DSM 450's). The obd2 cars however were all fine. Now as I said, since swapping to obd1 i've had minor idle problems. Just wondering if anyone else has noticed this. Also on obd1, i had to richen up the idle a lot more.

 

whoa... found this old post i made... no one replied... oh well went hondata. TTT for people on the hack!

 

I was OBDII on the hack, and I experienced idle and start-up problems. Sometimes I'd have to pump the gas while cranking the engine, and then it would rev to life ... just like a racecar! I also had a really bad idle problem that would cause my engine to shutdown once the clutch was pushed in while coming to a stoplight. I'm sure turning down the fuel pressure would've stopped this, but I had to sell everything before I could by a FPR, so it didn't matter anyway.

 

i was OBD I with the hack and had no startup problems or idle or anything and it ran like *** i mean... errr...

-ryan

 

weird how everyone has diff experiences. mine ran nice. i mean it would act wierd at times but nothing i couldn't deal with. only really had that weird part throttle bucking at times (REAAAALLY minimal) and it would throw code 13... like only did it a few times too. and it started up fine. when i switched to obd1 now... good god. it was horrible

 

regardless of my A/F ratio at about 5500 or 6000 my car would feel like it hit a wall and the RPMs were going up at the rate of a slow N/A auto matic but the car was accelerating at the rate of the slow N/A automatic also.

wierd

 

Sounds like your settings were f.u.b.a.r.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicRyda2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">weird how everyone has diff experiences. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I knew some other people with 96-98 Y8s, and their cars ran fine while mine and others ran kind of crappy. Very strange how the same engine with the same turbo kit would react differently to the same engine management. Mine was even put on the dyno for tuning.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XratedSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like your settings were f.u.b.a.r.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ban

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegasaurus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ban </TD></TR></TABLE>

wtf?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegasaurus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">regardless of my A/F ratio at about 5500 or 6000 my car would feel like it hit a wall and the RPMs were going up at the rate of a slow N/A auto matic but the car was accelerating at the rate of the slow N/A automatic also.

wierd</TD></TR></TABLE>


this is what my car is doing right now at 5k or so. it sucks. hondata will be here anyday now...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Daniel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was OBDII on the hack, and I experienced idle and start-up problems. Sometimes I'd have to pump the gas while cranking the engine, and then it would rev to life ... just like a racecar! I also had a really bad idle problem that would cause my engine to shutdown once the clutch was pushed in while coming to a stoplight. I'm sure turning down the fuel pressure would've stopped this, but I had to sell everything before I could by a FPR, so it didn't matter anyway. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm experiencing stalling/near-stalling when the clutch is pushed in, is this really because of running rich or high fuel pressure?

i'm also experiencing hard starting problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by _Endless_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i'm experiencing stalling/near-stalling when the clutch is pushed in, is this really because of running rich or high fuel pressure?

i'm also experiencing hard starting problem. </TD></TR></TABLE>

My tuner said it was because I was running so rich that when I let off the gas and push in the clutch, vacuum sucks out all the air, and the unburnt fuel is left in the cylinders. This basically floods the engine, which is why the engine keeps dying when approaching stoplights. This is what he told me, and I trust him. I never had the chance to get a FPR, though, so I don't know if it would help, but he said it would. Either that or maybe it was because of my Walbro 255? I'll never know. . . .

 

I run obd1 hack , and it couldnt run better with a piggy back of course

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegasaurus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">regardless of my A/F ratio at about 5500 or 6000 my car would feel like it hit a wall and the RPMs were going up at the rate of a slow N/A auto matic but the car was accelerating at the rate of the slow N/A automatic also.

wierd</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm thinking you were running real rich at that point in the RPM ban.

 

bump..

I would like to hear more from ppl with hack..

 

any of you guys have experience with OBD-0 cars and the hack...I'd be inerested to hear any input

 

I done it on both but not with identical setup.

OBD1 with 420cc, difficulty starting, no buckling and idles OK.

OBD2 with 500cc, no startup problems, bad buckling at low speeds but not as noticeable at high speeds. Idling is good in general and surges only sometimes slightly.

Both cars have similar flat spots at around 3500rpm - 4500rpm. OBD1 tuned. OBD2 untuned....

 

I have an obd2.2 and I have start-up problems sometimes. I've narrowed it down to the fuel pump though. I have a Walbro 255lph high pressure pump, which I believe has trouble pumping fuel when there is a 1/2 tank of gas or less.

I do not have any experience running the hack on an obd1, but I have heard from others that it runs better. One of the biggest problems I have is the hesitation when getting on and off the gas. I look at my a/f meter when i get off the gas and it goes completly lean, when I get back on it goes completely rich. Plus, I get all those damn codes(13, 45, etc..).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maxim &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I look at my a/f meter when i get off the gas and it goes completly lean, when I get back on it goes completely rich. Plus, I get all those damn codes(13, 45, etc..).</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's completely normal for the a/f gauge to go lean off gas and rich on the gas

 

Well, it did that when I had an FMU/inline set-up too, but that was only right after a full or nearly full throttle run. Now it does that even after light throttle in say traffic or something. Seems to be in synch with the hesitation that I spoke of too.

 

Not really afc.. SMC.. but I beleive my problems are due to fuel pressure. I had a walbro and my settings leaned out and it kept flooding right off. Put the stock pump in and it starts, but is hella rich. Gonna go get a gauge tonight and check it. If thats not it. Then my smc is screwed or something. This is obd2.

 

Looking back, I definitely wish I went straight to Hondata or the A'PEXi Power FC w/ Commander instead of ******* with all this AFC hack ****.

 

On my single cam, the hack was wonderful. Boost transition was excellent, idled fine, only problem I had was the low throttle bucking which was pretty wild with the RC 440's. Just 3 degrees of timing retard, colder plugs and good gas and I had no problem running the hack through 10psi regularly, 12psi on occasion.

Now on my B18C1 it's been another story. I'm not 100% sure if it's the hack itself or a combination of other things, but at times the car is simply not running well at all. At full throttle, the car will burst ahead for a second, then suddenly it's like I just opened a parachute and the car will not pull at all even with the wastegate screaming away and the boost gauge stuck at 6psi. I'm running the same basic setup as I did on the Civic (DSM 450's, 3 degrees retard, colder plugs) but it just doesn't feel the same at all. On my Civic is was seamless, like it was supposed to be there.. on the Integra, it's totally intrusive.

Hondata here I come

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTC_CiViC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hondata here I come </TD></TR></TABLE>

bish... you're not getting it back! tis mine!