let me first state that the car is not currently raced, so if .RJ decides this thread should be moved, i'll understand. i came here because searching yeilded nothing, and i respect the knowledge/experience this forum can share. ok, let's move on.

after successfully installing tokico illuminas and neuspeed race springs, we took the teg for a test drive. right away we noticed that the rears needed to be tightened, as there was a pretty serious clunk. we decided the tokico bushings we put in the hat were too soft and were causing part of the problem, so we started unscrewing the bolt to change em. after a few turns, the bolt basically seized up and would not turn for anything, either up or down. attempts with the breaker bar to back the bolt down began to round off the facets of the allen key hole in the top of the shock.

is there anything we can do short of grinding the bolt off and rethreading the shaft?

 

It's a lock nut, but it shouldn't be that hard to get off. I've had tokicos on and off to change springs dozens of times without a problem.

You must've either cross threaded it putting it on or got something in the threads.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Catch 22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's a lock nut, but it shouldn't be that hard to get off. I've had tokicos on and off to change springs dozens of times without a problem.

You must've either cross threaded it putting it on or got something in the threads.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i went and inspected with a close eye, and it looks like there might be a bit of stipeed thread poking out the top of the bolt(i have plenty of experience with stripped threads-i bmx ). i've never had something be so stuck though.

assuming it's stripped, what's the next step? the shock doesn't even have 5 miles on it, so just chopping it would be a waste.

 

What are you doing? What "bolt"? It sounds like you're referring to the lock-nut like Scott said. If so, do you have a allen key in the top as you're trying to loosen the lock-nut?

 

it will clunk around there if the bolt is not all the way tight. Thats what it sounds like the problem is - either use an allen key to hold the shock shaft (not vicegrips or anything like that) from turning, or lay into it with an impact and tighten it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hanson said &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> attempts with the breaker bar to back the bolt down began to round off the facets of the allen key hole in the top of the shock.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i wish it were as simple as sticking the allen wrench in there and working with that, but when trying to move the bolt, something had to give, and unfortunately it was the facets in the allen key hole. they are still functional enough to adequately tighten the shock in a 'normal' situation, but if i keep going with the allen wrench and 14mm open end, then i'll completely strip out the allen key hole.

sorry for not being clear enough before.

does anyone have any experience with rethreading the shaft? that seems like the only option at the moment.

 

are you sure its cross threaded? You're gonna need to use an impact... and you may have trashed the shock.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you sure its cross threaded? You're gonna need to use an impact... and you may have trashed the shock.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have an impact, but how will i keep the shaft from rotating?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hanson said &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i have an impact, but how will i keep the shaft from rotating?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It doesnt, but due to how it works (short bursts of high torque) the bolt will come right off. I've installed springs a bunch of times, and this is always the best way.

 

awesome. i really appreciate all the help .RJ . this is the reason i came to this forum. i'll report back with the results.

 

an impact will work because of what RJ described. but try to call up tokico because i think you can get the whole shock replaced under warranty. its happened to me before, but i cant return em cuz i modified and raced em anyway.

 

i sprayed the shocks and springs black. that's the only thing keeping me from sending it in on warranty. i guess i could try removing it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It doesnt, but due to how it works (short bursts of high torque) the bolt will come right off. I've installed springs a bunch of times, and this is always the best way.</TD></TR></TABLE>


bolt will not come right off......

you will need to use short bursts with the impact.....just don't hold your finger on the trigger for an extended amount of time....usually 7-10 short bursts (2-3 seconds) with PB penetrating spray and checking to make sure nuts is loosening after every burst..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


bolt will not come right off......

you will need to use short bursts with the impact.....just don't hold your finger on the trigger for an extended amount of time....usually 7-10 short bursts (2-3 seconds) with PB penetrating spray and checking to make sure nuts is loosening after every burst..</TD></TR></TABLE>

thank you sir.