The bolt that holds the control arm and the shock in place seems to be frozen. The nut spins, but thats all it does, spin without coming out. I wanted to know how you would get this bolt off, do I need a new control arm or is there a way around this dilemma? Thanks

 

Does it come out at all, or just stay spinning?

The bolt comes out a bit, then gets stuck on a rubber grommet type deal, which is when you take a punch and just hammer the bolt out.

If youre saying that you cant get it to move at all and it just spins in place...does the end of the bolt spin as well? Are you holding the other side firmly?
If only the head spins, try to pull it out with some plyers, as its most likely broken.

 

It just stays spinning. This is the one long bolt that goes through the shock bottom and I dont see an end bolt that I can hold down to stop the spinning, except the pre-made bolt, the one with threads, already welded on the shock. These are the rear shocks.

I cant break the left side bolt on the drivers side, even with a breaker bar. Any ideas on this one?

 

You can try to wedge a screwdriver between the bolt head and the shock.
Then use the ratchet to act like you're losening the bolt. If there are threads left on the bolt, it should worm its way out. If there is enough bolt sticking through the nut on the other end, you may be able to get a power drill and tighten the chuck on the bolt and see if you can't pull it through.
What a pain. We had fun with both of my brother's bolts on each side.
Salted roads suck!! Buy cars from Phoenix. If you have salted roads, invest in an under car sprayer and do it on the daily in the winter.

 

One question. Go look through the welded nut and see if the bolt (the threaded part) is out of it and spinning or if it is just sitting there and the head is spinning. If just the head is spinning then the bolt is broken and I imagine you will have to drill out the threaded part or break off the welded nut. If the whole bolt is spinning then take a hammer and a long blunt pointed object that will fit easily through the hole and lightly tap the bolt out. As for the other side, if you cant just give it a good consistent yank to get it loose, then I would take it to a mechanic to get him to loosen it and lightly tighten it back on, he shouldn't charge more than $15 to do this. Hope this helps.


[Modified by nugget8000, 3:50 AM 7/15/2001]

 

That's exactly the method I used. I used a screwdriver and my rubber mallet.

Now for the other side, use tons of WD-40 and let it soak a bit. Also tap it a bunch of times with a hammer to loosen and rust that may be holding it. Also, some people will try tightening (instead of loosening) a little first just to break the rust holding it in. Then, there's the heat it with a blow torch first method.

 

Thanks for all the replys, How does the heat it with a blow torch method work and how much? Also, how much would a new bushing be assuming that mine gets damaged during the heat?

 

would it be possible to buy a new control arm (45.00). Cut the bolt thats seized in the current bushing in the control arm. Take the whole suspension out so I can get the spring off. Install my new lower control arm, new shock, put my spring on the new setup and buy a new LCA bolt and be done with it? Does everything sound alright before I attempt this? btw, will I need an alighnment if I take off the LCA?

 

same thing happened to me... i wound up cutting the bolt, buying a new lca and new bolt, and reinstalling everything..... i think that is your best bet IMO...

 

If the bolt is just seized in the bushing sleeve then just get under there with a long ratchet/wrench and turn that bolt untill it breaks loose (might take a full turn or more). I would give this a try before you go spending any money on a ctrl arm. My bolt did this and I just kept turning it untill it finally broke loose. If you just take off the ctrl. arm and shock as one piece, lower them out, and replace the new set up the same way, it should not effect your alignment in a way that could be adjusted. The only adjustment that can be made to the rear suspension is the toe, and that is controlled by that front arm (don't know the technical term) where it bolts to the chassis in front of the wheel well, allowing the whole trailing arm to slide from side to side. Hope some of this helps.