Yea I was wondering I have a B16a SIR II OBD1 Motor.

I don't feel any power or pull...

Engine not throwing any codes I have Stock B16a Second Gen.
Is their a way I can test if my vtec is kicking in..?

I know most people say when vtec kicks in the engine should scream but I don't feel the scream or pull or whatever u know what I mean my car is a STD the header is hooked on the std piping..

so please help me out I want to feel vtec

 

My car runns kool engine revs all the way on my si cluster all the way to 8...

No CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS BUT THE CEL stays on all the time I am running a JDM PR3 OBD1 ECU.

My car has enough oil just did the Oil Change like few days ago. My Coolant temp sensor is fucked but my Coolant temp sending unit is working car does not over heat or anything!!! Vtec senoild is brand new and working!!

Car feels strong but I don't know if vtec is working..

 

You could hook up a led light to the vtec wire and it should light up when vtec kicks in, but on a b16 if you have to ask if its kicking in, more then likely its not.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bossman032 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My car runns kool engine revs all the way on my si cluster all the way to 8...

No CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS BUT THE CEL stays on all the time I am running a JDM PR3 OBD1 ECU.

My car has enough oil just did the Oil Change like few days ago. My Coolant temp sensor is fucked but my Coolant temp sending unit is working car does not over heat or anything!!! Vtec senoild is brand new and working!!

Car feels strong but I don't know if vtec is working..
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That is a check engine light?

 

that is not a check Engine Light because it does not blink!!!

its stays on forever but when I have problems BEFORE it goes away and it starts to blink like when I used to have VSS code 17 I drive the car but when it had problems with VSS the Check Engine started to blink and give the code for 17 VSS.

fyi: i Fixed the VSS it does not come on anymore!!! I changed the cluster!!!

 

I totally skipped over that, even if its not blinking thats still probably why your vtec ain't working.

 

If your CEL is on all the time, there's a probelm.. you said send gen B16.. which is a Hydro tranny engine, so if you used a cable it would fit in your car.. but a OBD1 ECU? so did you make or get a jumper? is it wirred right? if that CEL is on all the time, it can't be right.. ive never seen any ECU's stay one.. and be ok.

a little background.. things needed for VTEC to "kick in"..
1, proper coolant temp (fans kick in once)
2, speed, VSS must be over 12 MPH i belive.

now those things, could be intermitent, and VTEC would engage at any given time, but if those arn't working, VTEC would be disabled. If you had a code 17, meaning VSS.. that right there, would take out your VTEC.

Now im not sure what your working with? 88-91's all of them, didn't have electric VSS, they used cables. Now thats fine, but the cluster has to understand that, and shoot it back to the ECU.. somethings wrong there.. try replaceing the cable if you still have probelms.

hope some of this helped.

 

The Engine is a 92 XSi. Stamp on the HEAD saying 92.
My car 91 STD hatchback!!

The ENGINE came with cable tranny YS1 JDM.

Yes the ECU is PR3 Grey PLUG and Distributor is OBD1 **BOTH**.

My Coolant temp sensor is messed up I need to get a new one. My VSS is working correctly I fixed that today. My coolant temp sensor plastic peace broke ever since I got the engine I thought that won't be a problem because it not giving the Code 6 and engine is running good no problems.

My CEL always remains on but if one of the sensors fail the CEL goes away and it starts to blink the Code of the sensor that has failed or been unplugged or not working!!!

 

Hello All,

thanks for everyone who replyed.

NOW I FEEL VTEC **** IS CRAZY LOVE IT

 

so what did you do to solve your problem?

 

Looks like very thing on my engine was running cool ever since.

My engine didn't run for about 6-12months.

Look likes the engine had to adeptest to usa I drove it for a while and now its kicking in at 6000RPM. Its kool I love it.

 

So it just started working all of a sudden? That doesn't make sense.

 

yup it just started working after I did the timing and put expensive gas and cleaned the Oil Pan.

 

i think it was in the gas..

 

no way its the gas unless u put some real **** in it. I have the b16a2 engine in my 4th gen civic with a cable clutch conversion and had the same prob: didn't know if the v-tec was workin. Turned out it was all sorts causing it, ill list the possible causes here for anyone having the same problem as its the better engine anyway. there are TWO coolant temp sensors; 1 for the fan and another for the ecu. the v-tec will not engage if the ecu one is not working. Second the speed sensor needs 12 volts, an earth and a connection straight to the ecu(it does not need to go thru the speedo) without this it will not kick in. The wires for this are routed thru the dash not thru the standard ecu multi-plug (plus the iacv wire). Also my ecu light came on the other day when my alarm was playing up and cut the fuel pump power, it would not go off or flash when i jumped the sevice wires; turned out it must have been in what iv'e heard described as safe mode (no power, wouldnt rev high). Removing the backup fuse cured it. My car does over 140mph on the flat and its only got a modified ecu, filter, cold air pipe and no cat. is this normal?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UK CIVIC B16A2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Second the speed sensor needs 12 volts, an earth and a connection straight to the ecu(it does not need to go thru the speedo) without this it will not kick in. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Slow your roll son... the ECU i belive needs a refference 5V... and its a pulse... im pretty sure if you gave it 12.. it would work, but ide hate to give the ECU, 7 more volts than it needed to operate.. and if it was straight sorce.. a running car should produce 14 volts. too much.. stock cars have a cable VSS, and its spins a cable to the cluster.. its in the cluster, where it sends the PULSE signal to the ECU, and enables VTEC to operate.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UK CIVIC B16A2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My car does over 140mph on the flat and its only got a modified ecu, filter, cold air pipe and no cat. is this normal?</TD></TR></TABLE>
MOST... aftermarket chips... for ECU's disable the speed govenor.. the PR4 USDM LS integra doens't have a speed govenor.. ALL PR3's and PW0's did... if its chiped... no speed govenor.. modified RPM limitor.. and sometiems, no knock sensor.. and only 1 O2 Sensor.. well, as for the "Mugen" chip.

 

I think it was the gas also.

I felt vtec but it wasn't strong. Now I feel it Scream. I didn't mess with the wiring or anything.. so I am gussing its the dam GAS

 

could be the gas, or maybe whoever owned it before you was an old chap and never touched vtec..maybe she just needed to be broken in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Built B16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
im pretty sure if you gave it 12.. it would work, but ide hate to give the ECU, 7 more volts than it needed to operate..

MOST... aftermarket chips... for ECU's disable the speed govenor...</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think u misread. i said the SPEED SENSOR needs a 12volt supply, not the ecu!! i wouldnt just go applying battery voltage to any old ecu connection. i made my own loom with just a haynes manual for reference(and it wasn't even specific for either car!). im not wrong on that one. anyway, my voltmeter registered a pulsed 12v tho it is only supposed to be ~5v. cheapo voltmeter i think. dont think we get speed limiters over here... not on hondas anyway. and i got 145mph the other day(and was still pullin @150 down a hill, these hondas are GGRRREAT!) rev limiters standard i think.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bossman032 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

My CEL always remains on but if one of the sensors fail the CEL goes away and it starts to blink the Code of the sensor that has failed or been unplugged or not working!!!

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OK I also fixed this problem today now the CEL goes away after being on for 2sec . also I tested it I took out the vtec oil pressure wire it gave the code all I have to do now is JUMP that wire and it blinks. my car was running correctly now after nearly 8-10months of head ake .