How do you do a valve adjustment for H22
How do you do a valve adjustment, and what is the clearance. I posted this question a day ago and I got two different responses. Which is right, are they both wrong.
First one
.006-.007 intake
.007-.008 exhaust
Second one was
0.15-0.19mm intake
0/17-0.21mm exhaust
First one
.006-.007 intake
.007-.008 exhaust
Second one was
0.15-0.19mm intake
0/17-0.21mm exhaust
Honda-Tech Member
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From: land of the sheep, home of the hypocrite
Yes, it would alter the valve timing, but when someone says "timing" when talking about engines, they are generally refering to ignition timing. Changing valve lash doesn't change ignition timing.
Has anyone here experimented with tighter than stock lashes? I'm sure the stock settings are somewhat conservative. What are the racers using? How tight can you go before burning valves? Just curious. I doubt there is a lot of power to be made with a few thousandths more valve lift.
Has anyone here experimented with tighter than stock lashes? I'm sure the stock settings are somewhat conservative. What are the racers using? How tight can you go before burning valves? Just curious. I doubt there is a lot of power to be made with a few thousandths more valve lift.
I haven't... in response to the tighter clearences... and btw it wouldn't adjust the valve timing as much as it would the valve duration.. sorta like getting a cam with a longer open period
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BTW>> as for an easy "tool setup" to do it:
Using a 10 MM brake bleeder doesn't work. Atleast it didn't for me. I got one from Pep Boys, and worked about as well as a 16" cresent wrench would.
What I discovered that works really well is a 10 MM impact socket with a 1/2 inch drive. The socket fits perfectly, gives plenty of room for a flat head screw driver, *PLUS* the hole for the "holder ball" if you want to call it that is pretty big and goes the whole way thru the edge.
Just stick the screw driver in the socket, slide the socket up so you can see to set the adjustment, hold the screw driver, slide the socket down over the nut, and take the biggest allen wrench you have that will fit in the ball hole and crank the thing tight. It's best if you stick the short end of the allen into the socket of course and use the longer end to push for more leverage. Worked flawlessly for me and made the adjusting take no time at all. not to mention having a set of angled feeler guages helps also!
Using a 10 MM brake bleeder doesn't work. Atleast it didn't for me. I got one from Pep Boys, and worked about as well as a 16" cresent wrench would.
What I discovered that works really well is a 10 MM impact socket with a 1/2 inch drive. The socket fits perfectly, gives plenty of room for a flat head screw driver, *PLUS* the hole for the "holder ball" if you want to call it that is pretty big and goes the whole way thru the edge.
Just stick the screw driver in the socket, slide the socket up so you can see to set the adjustment, hold the screw driver, slide the socket down over the nut, and take the biggest allen wrench you have that will fit in the ball hole and crank the thing tight. It's best if you stick the short end of the allen into the socket of course and use the longer end to push for more leverage. Worked flawlessly for me and made the adjusting take no time at all. not to mention having a set of angled feeler guages helps also!
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