Modified by Comp97GSR at 10:44 PM 4/6/2007

 

cool sounds like something I should be doing very soon.

glad to see that your problems were solved..

Im assuming you did this on your own? how difficult was it?

 

I hope you didn't leave the timing at 20?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Comp97GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW, before I changed the belt, my ignition timing was at 16 degrees, when I checked it after I was done it was at 20 degrees. </TD></TR></TABLE>
isn't 20 quite a bit higher than spec?
i thought spec was 16 +/- 2

 

Doing the belt is not hard, I was alittle hyper compulsive and checked the tension and the timing marks 20 times before putting back together. It is a pain in the *** because there is alot of stuff to take off before you can operate on the patient. No I didn't leave the timing at 20 degrees, I brought it down to 18. And yes the timing was out of spec, I included those findings just to show what kind of havoc a worn timing belt can cause.


Modified by Comp97GSR at 7:45 PM 5/22/2003

 

Did you adjust your timing after putting on the new belt?

I had a b18c-r run at 20degrees for several months with no problems. We 'thought' it was on 18degrees.

Can someone explain how the timing would change simply by putting on a new timing belt?? Loosening the distributor (to change the timing) has nothing to do with putting on a belt.....

 

My guess would be the old belt was stretched.

 

As mentioned above - you really dont want your timing @ 20...its just kinda begging for detonation. Id stick @ 18 if you want to advance it.

 

I hope you aren't referring to me, I am at 18 degrees BTDC.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Burninator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... Can someone explain how the timing would change simply by putting on a new timing belt?? Loosening the distributor (to change the timing) has nothing to do with putting on a belt..... </TD></TR></TABLE>
The distributor is driven off the intake camshaft. If the intake cam timing was off, then with the new belt it was corrected. Sounds like his intake cam was retarted one or 2 teeth. When he put the camshaft back into proper time, it advanced the distributor, too. That's why you have to fix spark timing each time you adjust cam timing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The distributor is driven off the intake camshaft. If the intake cam timing was off, then with the new belt it was corrected. Sounds like his intake cam was retarted one or 2 teeth. When he put the camshaft back into proper time, it advanced the distributor, too. That's why you have to fix spark timing each time you adjust cam timing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmm...that may explain my idling problems. My teg didn't start idling rough/erratic until after my timing belt was put on.

 

Generally, pinging is caused by the ignition timing being too advanced. You should adjust it to a setting just below where it would ping under load. This is useful is you have a hi perf motor with no written specs.