Suspension Problem (please help)
Well, when it comes to my cars suspension, I can safely say that I have been to hell and back. Just when all my problems are solved I was quickly reminded that the only thing permanent is change.
My problem is that I just ordered my Prokits and I do not know if I need a camber kit. Now before you all lynch me for not searching I must tell you that this question cannot be answered by just searching.
My problem is that my car is basically my daily driver. The other problem is that I just went to my first auto-X (just to watch) and now I want to auto-x. Basically I want a daily driver that I can auto-X as well. Heres the dilema though...I was told that because the drop on the Prokit is minimal that I will not be needing a camber kit. They said that I could just take it to the dealer and get an allignment to bring it to within factory spec.
The only problem is that will this factory spec give me the little amount of camber I need (-1.0 degree for example) that will still be suitable for daily driving as well as beneficial to me when I auto-X?
Any and all comments are greately appreciated
KANJI
My problem is that I just ordered my Prokits and I do not know if I need a camber kit. Now before you all lynch me for not searching I must tell you that this question cannot be answered by just searching.
My problem is that my car is basically my daily driver. The other problem is that I just went to my first auto-X (just to watch) and now I want to auto-x. Basically I want a daily driver that I can auto-X as well. Heres the dilema though...I was told that because the drop on the Prokit is minimal that I will not be needing a camber kit. They said that I could just take it to the dealer and get an allignment to bring it to within factory spec.
The only problem is that will this factory spec give me the little amount of camber I need (-1.0 degree for example) that will still be suitable for daily driving as well as beneficial to me when I auto-X?
Any and all comments are greately appreciated
KANJI
With my H&R OE's I was within factory specs on the camber. You may be *slightly* out of spec on 1 or both sides , but as a reference point I was -.7 and -1 degree up front, spec is <-1.2. In the rear, I was -1, spec is <-2.
My lowering is between .75 to 1". Yours will be slightly more, but not much. Your tires WILL likely wear faster than if you left the car stock. I seriously doubt you'll shorten the life on your tires all that much, but halfway through the tread life you may want to dismount the tires and rotate them right/left so that they wear evenly over their life...that'll likely set you back ~$40 to have the tires unmounted, remounted, and rebalanced.
My lowering is between .75 to 1". Yours will be slightly more, but not much. Your tires WILL likely wear faster than if you left the car stock. I seriously doubt you'll shorten the life on your tires all that much, but halfway through the tread life you may want to dismount the tires and rotate them right/left so that they wear evenly over their life...that'll likely set you back ~$40 to have the tires unmounted, remounted, and rebalanced.
you will not see a drastic wear on tires when using a 205/50r15 or such with the camber a prokit allows... but if you run a 215/40r17 or similar WIDE and LOW profile tire, you will see drastic waer soon without correcting camber and autoxing on them.
so a low profile tire will force the stress of camber on the tire worse than a fatty / stock size will.
with that said, it kinda depends for you on that variable.
I know a lot of guys that run 15" tires and sportlines and see no rapid wear since they run thru tires quickly anyhow... and buy tires that wear out in 10k because they may be stickier than ones that would last 20k but show camber wear prematurely in that 20k.
hmmm.. complexity hee....
I say go with a bit o' camber, its supposed to help a lot, and when you wear out your fronts, move 'em to the back.
then when you wear them all out, get stickier tires and enjoy the grippy ride.
so a low profile tire will force the stress of camber on the tire worse than a fatty / stock size will.
with that said, it kinda depends for you on that variable.
I know a lot of guys that run 15" tires and sportlines and see no rapid wear since they run thru tires quickly anyhow... and buy tires that wear out in 10k because they may be stickier than ones that would last 20k but show camber wear prematurely in that 20k.
hmmm.. complexity hee....
I say go with a bit o' camber, its supposed to help a lot, and when you wear out your fronts, move 'em to the back.
then when you wear them all out, get stickier tires and enjoy the grippy ride.
Here's another point of reference. I'm dropped with what's listed in my sig. with no camber kit. And my camber settings ended up at -1.3 front and -.75 rear. I've never had uneven wear. I firmly believe that uneven wear is mostly related to the toe settings. So as long as the toe is properly aligned, your wear will be even. Also try to get an alignment with you sitting in the drivers seat. That'll allow for alignment settings that are more accurate when you're driving.
[Modified by red97gsr, 8:25 PM 7/11/2001]
[Modified by red97gsr, 8:25 PM 7/11/2001]
I have sportlines, and don't really have camber problems. Sure when the tires are almost completely worn out you can see the camber wear, but it's so slight it doesn't matter throughout the life of the tire. This is on 205/50/15
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
vshavoc
Suspension & Brakes
5
Oct 29, 2008 08:16 PM
ogwicked95
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
1
Sep 14, 2005 02:37 PM
eclypzex
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
9
Oct 6, 2004 01:28 PM



