well, after blowing my ECU fuse over and over and over, i upped the fuse to a 30 stead of a 20, well low an behold the car starts, and runs fine.... except the small fact that from under the dash, comes smoke... i traced it back to the brown plug running into this grey box



LOCATION:
to the left and below the fuse box, right behind the hood cable release latch.

There is a fried wire that seems to run from the brown plug all the way to the main harness... fried all the way... can anyone tell me exactly what the hell the grey box is and what its used for? and WHY i have a short that kicks my ECU fuse from this everytime?

note: after smoking... i shut off the car... checked the fuse after i made shure it wasnt on fire... and guess what? the fuse is good.

 

dude go in paint and circle it

DO NOT RUN WITH A HIGHER AMPERAGE FUSE

 

its plain to see, right in front of you... brown plug into it... i think its pretty clear which plug im talking about

 

Yeah i see it but i dont know what it is.............


Rob

 

take that 30 amp fuse out before you get yourself into bigger trouble...

 

ohh and did you do any work to your car (installed something)

you might have to just run a new wire from that connector to the fuse box...you said its already fried...if the short was in the wire this would fix that...but you should still try and find the source of the problem. make sure no other wires are fried

 

yeah no joke...DO NOT run a higher amperage fuse...smoke is a VERY BAD SIGN!!!

 

whats that smell?

Oh yeah, thats the smell of HAVING TO REPLACE A WIRING HARNESS AND ECU!


Rob

 

well well well... whaddaya fuggin know... i take out the ECU... open it up, and it looks like the R135 tried to freakin explode. god damn it.

 

ouchies

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
DO NOT RUN WITH A HIGHER AMPERAGE FUSE </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Simple &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
note: after smoking... i shut off the car... checked the fuse after i made shure it wasnt on fire... and guess what? the fuse is good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

When you use a fuse that is 10A more than you are supposed to, you allow 10A more current to run through the circuit. Even if you have 5A (or even 1A) extra current, you can burn some stuff easy. So all your stuff gets burnt up, but the fuse is just fine . Note: just 100mA can kill you. hehe (edit: not from car battery! not enough voltage)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Simple &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well well well... whaddaya fuggin know... i take out the ECU... open it up, and it looks like the R135 tried to freakin explode. god damn it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats what happenes when you run a higher amp fuse

that ecu could be toast.

 

Can You find a 40amp fuse? Try that lets see what happens.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by typeRNSX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can You find a 40amp fuse? Try that lets see what happens.</TD></TR></TABLE>


hahahahhahaha

 

im still wondering what the hell that little box is

 

I think it's the fuel pump relay.
It's an usual problem on civic's.

 

If you list the colors of the wires in the connection your talking about (as the pic is to blurry),it could be looked up in a Helms.

 

well, we figured out what it was.... the guy that installed an AIR/FUEL meter left about a 5 foot wire too long in the engine bay, which eventually got cought and wrapped around my axle, then tore the wiring, this would explain the ECU fuse going out becasue of the wire grounding out.... the damage is still being estimated, but as of now.... its

NEW ECU,
re-wire of the engine harness.
re-wire of the ECU harness
and whatever damage it has done to the dash harness (it has so far shorted out the main fule relay wiring.)

god damn that guy, altho i have some buddies that work for the honda/acura dealerships and thank god they like me..... its costing me like 300 to do all the work. they are chipping my new P28 for basically nothing also.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Simple &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, we figured out what it was.... the guy that installed an AIR/FUEL meter left about a 5 foot wire too long in the engine bay, which eventually got cought and wrapped around my axle, then tore the wiring, this would explain the ECU fuse going out becasue of the wire grounding out.... the damage is still being estimated, but as of now.... its

NEW ECU,
re-wire of the engine harness.
re-wire of the ECU harness
and whatever damage it has done to the dash harness (it has so far shorted out the main fule relay wiring.)

god damn that guy, altho i have some buddies that work for the honda/acura dealerships and thank god they like me..... its costing me like 300 to do all the work. they are chipping my new P28 for basically nothing also.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ouch.

 

That is the main relay. If thats screwed up there is no way you car will run. Replace it with a new or known good one and see if the problem goes away.

Word of warning. Upping the rating on any fuse is a GREAT way to burn your car to the ground as you may already suspect. DONT EVER DO IT. The fuses are there for a reason. Find the real problem and fix it properly.

Mike

 

have you added anything at all to your car recently before this problem started?

that gray box is the main ctl. relay

smoke and running a bigger fuse is bad
let me know