OT: painting wheels
In principle, you would want to remove the old paint to the bare surface. Paints lightly bond with new surfaces just as adhesives do.
The new paint won't be as susceptible to "chipping" or "flaking" as you'd think, but would give an uneven transparant look, showing the old paint over time.
If it's OEM Honda, I'd leave it alone unless it was a hubcap.
The new paint won't be as susceptible to "chipping" or "flaking" as you'd think, but would give an uneven transparant look, showing the old paint over time.
If it's OEM Honda, I'd leave it alone unless it was a hubcap.
Depends.
I used Dupli Wheel paints without removing the original paint and they stick on really really well.
Last time I tried to use Aircraft strippers to remove the paint, and I totally messed it up. So depend on what kind of paint you are using, paint can stay on. Dupli
I used Dupli Wheel paints without removing the original paint and they stick on really really well.
Last time I tried to use Aircraft strippers to remove the paint, and I totally messed it up. So depend on what kind of paint you are using, paint can stay on. Dupli
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nEoMuGen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Depends.
I used Dupli Wheel paints without removing the original paint and they stick on really really well.
Last time I tried to use Aircraft strippers to remove the paint, and I totally messed it up. So depend on what kind of paint you are using, paint can stay on. Dupli
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yup..Duplic Color paints work good ...
i just roughed up the surface with some light grit sandpaper ....masked everything off ...and went painting ...no chips ....no runs ....looks great
edit: i used no clearcoat
Modified by tsunami_zc at 1:05 PM 5/13/2003
I used Dupli Wheel paints without removing the original paint and they stick on really really well.
Last time I tried to use Aircraft strippers to remove the paint, and I totally messed it up. So depend on what kind of paint you are using, paint can stay on. Dupli
</TD></TR></TABLE>yup..Duplic Color paints work good ...
i just roughed up the surface with some light grit sandpaper ....masked everything off ...and went painting ...no chips ....no runs ....looks great
edit: i used no clearcoat
Modified by tsunami_zc at 1:05 PM 5/13/2003
I used the stuff above too. The dupli color gunmetal. Then after it dried i sprayed it with dupli color clear coat. I did not remove the orignal paint, only sanded it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 743 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How did you maks off the lip so well? I can picture myself trying to get a cruved mask with tape for hours on my wheels, and I really want to paint them. . .</TD></TR></TABLE>
it wasnt easy ..i can tell you that ...better have a steady hand ..lots of patience ...and an exacto knife
it wasnt easy ..i can tell you that ...better have a steady hand ..lots of patience ...and an exacto knife
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the wheels look great tsunami
by any chance would the dupli paint you used was graphite? i couldn't find anything that said gunmetal so i just picked up the next best color, which was graphite.
by any chance would the dupli paint you used was graphite? i couldn't find anything that said gunmetal so i just picked up the next best color, which was graphite.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tsunami_zc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
it wasnt easy ..i can tell you that ...better have a steady hand ..lots of patience ...and an exacto knife </TD></TR></TABLE>
a faster route would be to use vaseline and mark off the paintless area.
it wasnt easy ..i can tell you that ...better have a steady hand ..lots of patience ...and an exacto knife </TD></TR></TABLE>
a faster route would be to use vaseline and mark off the paintless area.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soup **** »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
a faster route would be to use vaseline and mark off the paintless area.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats a nice trick.
a faster route would be to use vaseline and mark off the paintless area.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats a nice trick.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soup **** »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
a faster route would be to use vaseline and mark off the paintless area.</TD></TR></TABLE>
to messy ....
btu yeah ....that works too
a faster route would be to use vaseline and mark off the paintless area.</TD></TR></TABLE>
to messy ....
btu yeah ....that works too
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aargh867 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the wheels look great tsunami
by any chance would the dupli paint you used was graphite? i couldn't find anything that said gunmetal so i just picked up the next best color, which was graphite.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i beleive the color i used was charcoal grey ....
by any chance would the dupli paint you used was graphite? i couldn't find anything that said gunmetal so i just picked up the next best color, which was graphite.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i beleive the color i used was charcoal grey ....
If you remove the old paint to the bare metal then you will need to put on a coat of primer before painting. If you leave the old coat of paint then you can just paint over without any prep (besides washing the wheels).
As for masking...use electrical tape for the rim edge. Electrical tape is flexible and much easier to form around a round shape than normal masking tape.
My 2 cents.
As for masking...use electrical tape for the rim edge. Electrical tape is flexible and much easier to form around a round shape than normal masking tape.
My 2 cents.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tommy_Gunns »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you remove the old paint to the bare metal then you will need to put on a coat of primer before painting. If you leave the old coat of paint then you can just paint over without any prep (besides washing the wheels).
As for masking...use electrical tape for the rim edge. Electrical tape is flexible and much easier to form around a round shape than normal masking tape.
My 2 cents.</TD></TR></TABLE>
oh yeah ,,,...electrical black tape ...that owuld be so much easier
As for masking...use electrical tape for the rim edge. Electrical tape is flexible and much easier to form around a round shape than normal masking tape.
My 2 cents.</TD></TR></TABLE>
oh yeah ,,,...electrical black tape ...that owuld be so much easier
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nEoMuGen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Depends.
I used Dupli Wheel paints without removing the original paint and they stick on really really well.
Last time I tried to use Aircraft strippers to remove the paint, and I totally messed it up. So depend on what kind of paint you are using, paint can stay on. Dupli
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats what a couple of friends did as well
I used Dupli Wheel paints without removing the original paint and they stick on really really well.
Last time I tried to use Aircraft strippers to remove the paint, and I totally messed it up. So depend on what kind of paint you are using, paint can stay on. Dupli
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats what a couple of friends did as well
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91hatchcivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey sorry to bring this back, but when painting , do u do like 3-4light coats? or something different? and sandable primer, or no?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't need primer unless you strip all the paint down to bare metal. The proper meathod is to do light coats with a light sanding in between, like with 400 grit. The problem with that is it takes to frikken long. I'd just do 4-5 light coats. The most important thing is to follow the directions for the amount of time you should wait between coats.
You don't need primer unless you strip all the paint down to bare metal. The proper meathod is to do light coats with a light sanding in between, like with 400 grit. The problem with that is it takes to frikken long. I'd just do 4-5 light coats. The most important thing is to follow the directions for the amount of time you should wait between coats.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr Pooface »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The proper meathod is to do light coats with a light sanding in between, like with 400 grit. The problem with that is it takes to frikken long. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Nothing wrong with taking the time to do something right...
Nothing wrong with taking the time to do something right...
well i think i need to primer the one wheel cause i took most of the paint off, but not all, i couldnt get some of the paint off around the lip ,so its slightly uneven in spots.
rather than start a new topic, I removed the paint from an old set of ITR wheels I have and plan to polish and buff them shiny. You think I can leave it like that or should I put some clear coat or something on it?


