best turbo for 95 ls integra
ive been looking around a lot..i have a 94 but same thing, custom is definately the way to go, however this can take a long long long time and a butt load of effort, if you have that kind of patience go for it, im lookin at the rev hard stage 2 or 2c from afterhourzracing.com, its about 2700-2900 shipped i think and from the research ive done it seems to be among the best suited for our cars...another option is drag gen III, rev hard is a better kit, drag is a little nicer show wise...preference is key...personally id rather have it perform than look nice...
yee i also have a 94 teg and rev hard is the way to go i think that most of the members here will tell u about the rev hard turbo kits cuz they are good for the money and reliable
yeah drag is all bling bling factor with their piping and intercooler, which is nice, cause as much as id opt for function over fashion, nothing is nicer than a nicey shiney FMIC, so i dont know, this is why DIY kits are always nice...best of both worlds..
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First off we need goals to determine a turbo for you ls.
Go custom. Get a t3/t04e .57 compressor, and .63 a/r turbine. The drag a nd rev hard come with the .54 comp, which sucks.
The only bad thing about drag is the oil return setup it comes with which is not hard to replace. Drag also comes with either greddy or hks BOV's. The rev hard comes with the shitty vortech bov.
People always talk **** about the drag manifold spiking, but if you upgrade from the deltagate(which eveeryone should) to the Tial 35mm, you wont have any creeping problems. The rev hard also comes with the shity deltagate.
Rev hard comes with no filter or filter piping. Drag does.
If I were to start all over again, i would get the drag 3 again, sell the manifold for a nice inline pro, get a precision sc60 turbo, and upgrade to a greddy intercoole.r
Go custom. Get a t3/t04e .57 compressor, and .63 a/r turbine. The drag a nd rev hard come with the .54 comp, which sucks.
The only bad thing about drag is the oil return setup it comes with which is not hard to replace. Drag also comes with either greddy or hks BOV's. The rev hard comes with the shitty vortech bov.
People always talk **** about the drag manifold spiking, but if you upgrade from the deltagate(which eveeryone should) to the Tial 35mm, you wont have any creeping problems. The rev hard also comes with the shity deltagate.
Rev hard comes with no filter or filter piping. Drag does.
If I were to start all over again, i would get the drag 3 again, sell the manifold for a nice inline pro, get a precision sc60 turbo, and upgrade to a greddy intercoole.r
oh yea, what is the fuel management you mention that you have?
my recomendations for fuel setups will be **** the drag 3 and rev hard fuel setup.
get a real standalone like hondata, delphi 550's and walbro 255lph intank.
my recomendations for fuel setups will be **** the drag 3 and rev hard fuel setup.
get a real standalone like hondata, delphi 550's and walbro 255lph intank.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by intekragsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First off we need goals to determine a turbo for you ls.
Go custom. Get a t3/t04e .57 compressor, and .63 a/r turbine. The drag a nd rev hard come with the .54 comp, which sucks.
The only bad thing about drag is the oil return setup it comes with which is not hard to replace. Drag also comes with either greddy or hks BOV's. The rev hard comes with the shitty vortech bov.
People always talk **** about the drag manifold spiking, but if you upgrade from the deltagate(which eveeryone should) to the Tial 35mm, you wont have any creeping problems. The rev hard also comes with the shity deltagate.
Rev hard comes with no filter or filter piping. Drag does.
If I were to start all over again, i would get the drag 3 again, sell the manifold for a nice inline pro, get a precision sc60 turbo, and upgrade to a greddy intercoole.r</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree with most of what you said. I have a drag gen 3 kit and upgraded a few things. I think its the best for the money. THe gsr kit has a .57trim turbo, is the LS diffrent? Just to give you an idea of power, look at my sig. Drag kit with hondata..
Go custom. Get a t3/t04e .57 compressor, and .63 a/r turbine. The drag a nd rev hard come with the .54 comp, which sucks.
The only bad thing about drag is the oil return setup it comes with which is not hard to replace. Drag also comes with either greddy or hks BOV's. The rev hard comes with the shitty vortech bov.
People always talk **** about the drag manifold spiking, but if you upgrade from the deltagate(which eveeryone should) to the Tial 35mm, you wont have any creeping problems. The rev hard also comes with the shity deltagate.
Rev hard comes with no filter or filter piping. Drag does.
If I were to start all over again, i would get the drag 3 again, sell the manifold for a nice inline pro, get a precision sc60 turbo, and upgrade to a greddy intercoole.r</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree with most of what you said. I have a drag gen 3 kit and upgraded a few things. I think its the best for the money. THe gsr kit has a .57trim turbo, is the LS diffrent? Just to give you an idea of power, look at my sig. Drag kit with hondata..
btw imma own this thread.
I like the the drag 3 intercooler better than the revhard in terms of looks(my rice boy side coming out)
The piping is definatly a PLUS
BlAnG blAnG!
I like the the drag 3 intercooler better than the revhard in terms of looks(my rice boy side coming out)
The piping is definatly a PLUS
BlAnG blAnG!
No its not too big for an ls motor. Go with 10:1 compression, bigger bore or both to aid in spool time. Use any manifold with a t3 flange on it.
why not get the precision sc61 or sc60? it spools faster than the t3/60-1 and pushes more lbs/min. Just more expensive.
why not get the precision sc61 or sc60? it spools faster than the t3/60-1 and pushes more lbs/min. Just more expensive.
also searching for a moderate turbo kit, but i wanted to keep everything legal in all states (might move to ca). unfortunately I have not seen any OBD1 legal kits yet for a 1995 b18b
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by intekragsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No its not too big for an ls motor. Go with 10:1 compression, bigger bore or both to aid in spool time. Use any manifold with a t3 flange on it.
why not get the precision sc61 or sc60? it spools faster than the t3/60-1 and pushes more lbs/min. Just more expensive. </TD></TR></TABLE>
why would you ever bump the compression up to 10:1, this would make your car highly unstreetable and nearly untunable, and if you opt later to go with a larger turbo you will be screwed by pumping high octane gas
why not get the precision sc61 or sc60? it spools faster than the t3/60-1 and pushes more lbs/min. Just more expensive. </TD></TR></TABLE>
why would you ever bump the compression up to 10:1, this would make your car highly unstreetable and nearly untunable, and if you opt later to go with a larger turbo you will be screwed by pumping high octane gas
intekragsr knows his **** i 2nd his recomnedation...if you plan on sleeving later and building the bottom end for higher boost...go w/ the 60-1. besides that i would never go w/ a premade kit some are good but in my mind i never get exaclty what i want, mostly because im not generic i like parts for certain reasons....companies like revhard and drag like parts for prices...design to meet a price and make a kit reasonably priced...you can build a kit cheaper in my mind w/ a better setup..just imho.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allmotorls95 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
why would you ever bump the compression up to 10:1, this would make your car highly unstreetable and nearly untunable </TD></TR></TABLE>
Highly unstreetable? Hardly. Hang out more in the FI forum. Type R's with higher compression are running over 400 hp daily on pump gas, and its plenty streetable. What is unstreetable is when people are dropping compression points down to 8.5:1-9:1. This creates a dog on the low end, slow *** turbo spool and higher intake temps since you need to crank up the boost to hit your goal/numbers.
10:1 is not considered "high compression" more like mild compression. High compression is 11:1 which has been done. It does not make it "untuneable". It could also make it easier to tune in some cases. With lower compression, you have to run more timing to make up for loss in power from the lost compression.
Again, people who lower their compression down past 9.5:1 is for people who use the crappy afc hack, crappy fmu+inline, or some other sort of bandaid or piggy back. A real standalone can EASILY tune with greater compression.
So there i leave it, stick with stock gsr compression numbers. Give 10:1 a try and hang out in FI more often for more accurate answers.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and if you opt later to go with a larger turbo you will be screwed by pumping high octane gas
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are talking about pump gas correct? i think high octane gas is used even when all motor. I would never think about putting lower than california 91 octane.
If your talking race gas, its a whole different story. You dont need any c16 race gas until (guessing) 400-450+ hp. Ive seen pump gas 400hp cars. and besides, you shouldnt even be running htat much on the street. 300 whp is crazy enough.
Modified by intekragsr at 8:12 PM 5/13/2003
why would you ever bump the compression up to 10:1, this would make your car highly unstreetable and nearly untunable </TD></TR></TABLE>
Highly unstreetable? Hardly. Hang out more in the FI forum. Type R's with higher compression are running over 400 hp daily on pump gas, and its plenty streetable. What is unstreetable is when people are dropping compression points down to 8.5:1-9:1. This creates a dog on the low end, slow *** turbo spool and higher intake temps since you need to crank up the boost to hit your goal/numbers.
10:1 is not considered "high compression" more like mild compression. High compression is 11:1 which has been done. It does not make it "untuneable". It could also make it easier to tune in some cases. With lower compression, you have to run more timing to make up for loss in power from the lost compression.
Again, people who lower their compression down past 9.5:1 is for people who use the crappy afc hack, crappy fmu+inline, or some other sort of bandaid or piggy back. A real standalone can EASILY tune with greater compression.
So there i leave it, stick with stock gsr compression numbers. Give 10:1 a try and hang out in FI more often for more accurate answers.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and if you opt later to go with a larger turbo you will be screwed by pumping high octane gas
</TD></TR></TABLE>You are talking about pump gas correct? i think high octane gas is used even when all motor. I would never think about putting lower than california 91 octane.
If your talking race gas, its a whole different story. You dont need any c16 race gas until (guessing) 400-450+ hp. Ive seen pump gas 400hp cars. and besides, you shouldnt even be running htat much on the street. 300 whp is crazy enough.
Modified by intekragsr at 8:12 PM 5/13/2003
for ***** and giggles, heres 1/1000 threads on high compression and turbo.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=502165
nearly everyone in this thread is running 10:1 -11:1
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=502165
nearly everyone in this thread is running 10:1 -11:1
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