What are the differences bettween these 2? Is the mugen header the same length as the DC JDM? I know DC headers don't last too long before they start to corode but I would like to focus on the power gains and things like header design.

 

The great header test comes to mind

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheRedSkoolingBus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The great header test comes to mind </TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe that was taken down a while ago. I would just like to know some physical differences of these two.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What are the differences bettween these 2? Is the mugen header the same length as the DC JDM? I know DC headers don't last too long before they start to corode but I would like to focus on the power gains and things like header design. </TD></TR></TABLE>

DC headers don't last long before they corode?
Where did you get this info?
I have had two DC headers. (one on a '00 Si and one on a '01 R) No problems.


DC and Mugen are the same length. All JDM-sized headers are the same length and are all within a few mm of each other with ID of the collector.

They both hang lower than the oil pan, I believe the DC is the lowest hanging header, besides special-order type headers.

 

my JDM (2.5" Collector) header isn't the same Length.

Seriously though . . . Chris is right they are similar. Unless you plan to tune your car DC is the most affordable route. It you want a little more ground clearance look into the OEM JDM 4-1.

 

It's not taken down yet: http://www.ap-engineering.com/header.html

These two headers look very similar.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

DC headers don't last long before they corode?
Where did you get this info?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

That was the feedback I got from several people that have owned DC headers. Rust on the SS after a few months, ceramic cracking and rusting.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
DC and Mugen are the same length. All JDM-sized headers are the same length and are all within a few mm of each other with ID of the collector.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats what I thought. Just needed some confirmation. thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Asahi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my JDM (2.5" Collector) header isn't the same Length.

Seriously though . . . Chris is right they are similar. Unless you plan to tune your car DC is the most affordable route. It you want a little more ground clearance look into the OEM JDM 4-1.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Let me re-phrase. Just add 'save for the comptech race header, hytech and SMSP headers' to my statement that ALL JDM-sized headers are the same length.

JDM DC is great bang for the buck, even better power than the OEM JDM 4-1. The mugen 4-1 is rather expensive, no? If I had to choose between those two only, I'd choose DC.

 

My SS DC JDM 4-1 has started to rust on the head flang, the tubes are dicoloured but not corroded as far as I can tell, it is going to get wrapped soon so no big deal, although now I'm getting TODA Bs I can see me having to upgrade the header soon (if I have the cash left over after the engine rebuild)

 

the Flange is likely a different material than the tubing. I have heard of ceramic cracking but no corroding in short time.

 

FWIW, the DC Sports JDM 4-1 has a much better merge collector than the Mugen, because the Mugen pipes are just cut off in the collector.

HTH

 

The collector flange and the part that bolts to the head are NOT stainless, they are mild steel. Mild Steel rusts. I don't even think they try to hide the fact that these two portions of the header are mild steel. I don't think this is a 'flaw' of the header, I took ITR21's original post to mean that the actual pipes were rusting and corroding.

I do not know if other headers do this same thing, using mild steel on either end, but my collector and the part that bolts to the head (what is that part called?) both rusted slightly.

The tubes, however, are perfectly fine.

 

You're crazy to buy the Mugen over the DC just because it is Mugen, IMO.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The collector flange and the part that bolts to the head are NOT stainless, they are mild steel. Mild Steel rusts. I don't even think they try to hide the fact that these two portions of the header are mild steel. I don't think this is a 'flaw' of the header, I took ITR21's original post to mean that the actual pipes were rusting and corroding.

I do not know if other headers do this same thing, using mild steel on either end, but my collector and the part that bolts to the head (what is that part called?) both rusted slightly.

The tubes, however, are perfectly fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

DC uses a mild steel/CRS likely for there manifold flange and collector flange but with stainless tubing. It's done this way since CRS (cold rolled steel) is less expensive but is also more stable when welded. It is more difficult to keep a 304 stainless steel flange flat as compared to CRS after welding.

Here's a picture of a header with stainless steel tubes and a CRS flange.



It's only a visual thing. I'm getting ready to do a run of 10 H22 headers and all the buyers want stainless flanges so that's what they'll be but it is more $. I use CRS flanges now but they get coated so rust isn't an issue.

I remember when I saw Ross' TIR B pipe and I looked at the flanges and was surprise to see that they looked like stainless but after putting a magnet to them it was determined to be some type of chromed mild steel. A magnet won't stick to a 300 series stainless, but it will to 400 series.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Type R Bob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're crazy to buy the Mugen over the DC just because it is Mugen, IMO.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats what I dont want to do. I can get a used mugen one in excellent condition for slightly more then a brand new SS DC JDM. I would never consider buying a brand new mugen header.

 

for what its worth(not much ), I went from a mugen usdm header, stock cat, and stock cam gears to dc jdm header, test pipe, and cam gears. I picked up 7whp and 0 tq. My car had 12.9:1, ctr cams, intake, exaust, fpr and vafc as the other mods. That being said, I think on car with more modification than the ones on the header test, the mugen would make better power

 

i didnt know there was a mugen usdm header
*edit* yes i was also wondering about that and how the great header test isn't that "great" after all, since it the different headers will seperate more when mods are a factor.

 

Having looked at both and talking w/ owners of both who know what they are talking about, I am under the impression that the DC actually merges better than the Mugen. For the same money it is funny to think anything from DC sports is better than Mugen, but in this case I think I would still say DC. I have one, but now that I am running a Toda package and CTR pistons, I am going to hold on to it only until I can afford the SMS.

 

sorry i didnt specify, when i said mugen usdm header, its a mugen header that comes with the us size collector that mates to the stock cat