gsr long block or type-r short block??
What are you asking? Do you want to buy the ITR shortblock and put your b16 head on it? Is your other choice just putting in an entire GSR motor? Be a little more specific.
well should i buy the itr short block and put my b16 head on it or jus get the long block from a gsr and put that in my car instead.is that alil more specific for yah..asking what is better to do??
i disagree completely with what everyone has said so far.
go with:
Brand New ITR shortblock, milled B16a head, P30 intake manifold, good 4-2-1 header, ITR cams...
190whp, 135-140tq, honda reliability.
go with:
Brand New ITR shortblock, milled B16a head, P30 intake manifold, good 4-2-1 header, ITR cams...
190whp, 135-140tq, honda reliability.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chet »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i disagree completely with what everyone has said so far.
go with:
Brand New ITR shortblock, milled B16a head, P30 intake manifold, good 4-2-1 header, ITR cams...
190whp, 135-140tq, honda reliability.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think I agree w/ this, but if you are milling the b16 head you might as well save $ and stick it on a GSR bottom end. I guess it depends on prices.
go with:
Brand New ITR shortblock, milled B16a head, P30 intake manifold, good 4-2-1 header, ITR cams...
190whp, 135-140tq, honda reliability.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think I agree w/ this, but if you are milling the b16 head you might as well save $ and stick it on a GSR bottom end. I guess it depends on prices.
i'd probably got w/ the b16...but built
take the block, resleeve it, throw in 84mm pistons. that'll give you something like 1727cc. have a nice 11.5:1, CR, throw on some r cams and valve train, and and oil catch can to keep you detonation free.
.
take the block, resleeve it, throw in 84mm pistons. that'll give you something like 1727cc. have a nice 11.5:1, CR, throw on some r cams and valve train, and and oil catch can to keep you detonation free.
.
well i already got the money for either the itr short block or gsr long block. i was told that i should jus get a gsr block and jus change the internals and the headgasket. i was also told that i should get the itr block and jus put my b16 head on it and jus get a new manifold, cams, headgasket, throttle body,springs,etc...and i should easily run 12s / 13s all motor..decisions decisons!!
how can this be a tough decision?
honda reliability vs a built motor which is only as reliable as the engine builder.
personally...i'll take a honda engineer of just about any engine builder in the united states...
and the ITR block will make 200whp+ with the right cams...thats enough to get an EG into the 12's.
honda reliability vs a built motor which is only as reliable as the engine builder.
personally...i'll take a honda engineer of just about any engine builder in the united states...
and the ITR block will make 200whp+ with the right cams...thats enough to get an EG into the 12's.
well i got a ef so it lighter than the eg..but n e ways goin with the itr short block would be a better move to for??
sorry to thread jack once again but where can you get a itr short block for less than a gsr long block? i found a jdm gsr long block for like 1700 from HMOTORSONLINE.COM
let me know where i can get a cheap itr bottom end...PLEASE i want one
thanks and sorry again for the jacking dood
let me know where i can get a cheap itr bottom end...PLEASE i want one
thanks and sorry again for the jacking dood
there are plenty of people sourcing out ITR shortblocks new from Acura for under $2000.
its a shortblock, its just what you should throw into your EF.
if it were me though, I would buy a B20 shortblock and beef it up with a girdle and higher comp. pistons on aftermarket rods.... but that would entail over $3000 no doubt.
its a shortblock, its just what you should throw into your EF.
if it were me though, I would buy a B20 shortblock and beef it up with a girdle and higher comp. pistons on aftermarket rods.... but that would entail over $3000 no doubt.
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From: kyoto sangyo daigaku, kyoto, japan, sometimes bay area CA
it's not really worth it to put the B16 head on the GSR block... i'd go with the ITR since the ITR head is just a B16 that's mildly ported and polished, and just use your existing head. and get the valvetrain / cams too.
my vote for the R block but dont expect monster power 190-210whp unless you have hondata tuning, the right header/exhaust and cams.
I bolted everything that came stock on my GSR to a R block in september.
still running GSR cams with the GSR head/IM and stock throttle body/exhaust,
stock intake with fresh air tube and stock filter, stock header/cat, stock OBD2ECU and a stock clutch from a B16/ITR flywheel(all I had at the time) the car pulls 160/122whp/tq SAE corrected with the benefit of GSR midrange bias. I also have ITR valvesprings and LMAs in there (for when I decide to get my cams) ITR laser platinum NGK plugs 6-11s, NGK wires, mostly new tune up stuff, well spec'ed valves running 10-40 amsoil synthetic.
GSRs completely stock pull about 145/110 SAE corrected.
so you can see the potential with the R block with a bit more CR
(10.8-9:1)
R cams or skunk2/toda As, hondata tuning
good header like comptech 4-2-1
comptech icebox intake
with this untuned I can bolt on to about 175-185/125-135 at the wheels
once tuned fully from the ECU, 190s shouldnt be too hard with 8500rpm
redline.
R block
Modified by MikeSarr_GSR at 1:33 AM 5/13/2003
I bolted everything that came stock on my GSR to a R block in september.
still running GSR cams with the GSR head/IM and stock throttle body/exhaust,
stock intake with fresh air tube and stock filter, stock header/cat, stock OBD2ECU and a stock clutch from a B16/ITR flywheel(all I had at the time) the car pulls 160/122whp/tq SAE corrected with the benefit of GSR midrange bias. I also have ITR valvesprings and LMAs in there (for when I decide to get my cams) ITR laser platinum NGK plugs 6-11s, NGK wires, mostly new tune up stuff, well spec'ed valves running 10-40 amsoil synthetic.
GSRs completely stock pull about 145/110 SAE corrected.
so you can see the potential with the R block with a bit more CR
(10.8-9:1)
R cams or skunk2/toda As, hondata tuning
good header like comptech 4-2-1
comptech icebox intake
with this untuned I can bolt on to about 175-185/125-135 at the wheels
once tuned fully from the ECU, 190s shouldnt be too hard with 8500rpm
redline.
R block
Modified by MikeSarr_GSR at 1:33 AM 5/13/2003
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