When doing the OBD2 walkaround by pulling the radio/clock fuse (7.5), when exactly do you do this?
1. while the car is off ?
2. while the car is running?
3. take it out while the car is running then shut off the car?
4. When you take it out do you leave the fuse out or do you put it back in?

Also how long are you suppposed the leave the fuse out,before putting it back in?

 

if you're talking about the ODBII workaround,

http://www.ntpog.org/mods/fifth-afc/ecu.shtml

you can, of course, simply clip the wire and not worry about the swtich. But the switch is the way to go.

NTPOG... one of my personal favorite Prelude sites around. Keep up the good work guys!

 

Actually if your check on http://www.ntpog.org there is a modification you can do to the wiring that will keep you from having to do this - it basically disables the OBD II learning feature - check it out...

Paul

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lone Luder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you're talking about the ODBII workaround,

http://www.ntpog.org/mods/fifth-afc/ecu.shtml

you can, of course, simply clip the wire and not worry about the swtich. But the switch is the way to go.

NTPOG... one of my personal favorite Prelude sites around. Keep up the good work guys!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I see great minds think alike - and at the same instant...

Paul

 

well..
we also know (from personal experience) that this does not work forever...

 

Thanks for the link, but I am going to the drag strip this weekend and I wont have time to install the switch. I was just wondering when do I pull the fuse, and do I leave it out or put it back in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SH_LUDER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the link, but I am going to the drag strip this weekend and I wont have time to install the switch. I was just wondering when do I pull the fuse, and do I leave it out or put it back in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

When the car is off - pull for about 30 seconds. Make sure you have your theft codes handy if you still have the factory head unit.

Paul

 

My opinion on the subject is that ODBII is never eliminated, even if you reset it every time. The only way to get around ODBII is to get an new ECU comparable to what Mugen offers for the S2K.
http://www.kingmotorsports.com...S2000

 

...and my question is why do you need a OBD2 walk around??? Why not let the ECU do what it's there for??

Don’t tune your car at part throttle let the OBD2 computer do that for you, it does a great job of it! If you want more power at part throttle just push the peddle down more! Just tune your car at full throttle (90%-100% TP) for max power. The OBD2 computer will not be in closed loop at full throttle and will ignore readings from the O2 sensor. Thus your setting will never get “un-tuned” if you tune this way. (U tune full trottle & let the ECU tune part throttle)

Now if you need to make major changes to the computer like running lots of boost then you need to get Hondata or the AEM ECU to tune the car in right.

 

Exactly what 57STS said.

 

cause obdII uses a secondary O2.
My exhaust has no place for a secondary O2

so it just dangles below the car ...
I throw a code, and the only way to get rid of it is to make the ecu not go look for it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 57STS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...and my question is why do you need a OBD2 walk around??? Why not let the ECU do what it's there for??

Don’t tune your car at part throttle let the OBD2 computer do that for you, it does a great job of it! If you want more power at part throttle just push the peddle down more! Just tune your car at full throttle (90%-100% TP) for max power. The OBD2 computer will not be in closed loop at full throttle and will ignore readings from the O2 sensor. Thus your setting will never get “un-tuned” if you tune this way. (U tune full trottle & let the ECU tune part throttle)

Now if you need to make major changes to the computer like running lots of boost then you need to get Hondata or the AEM ECU to tune the car in right.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Perhaps I am wrong, but my understanding has been that the adjustments made by the ecu from the long term fuel trim data in memory also affect open loop operation.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cause obdII uses a secondary O2.
My exhaust has no place for a secondary O2
so it just dangles below the car ...
I throw a code, and the only way to get rid of it is to make the ecu not go look for it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you could either get the ECG O2 simulator, or do the OBD1 ECU swap then.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Perhaps I am wrong, but my understanding has been that the adjustments made by the ecu from the long term fuel trim data in memory also affect open loop operation.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Acually your right, however the long term fule trim shound not be changing around that much after the ECU finds were it needs to be. My LTFT has allways been between -6% and -8% everytime I take a reading. Just drive the car a few hundered miles before you tune the full throttle. My point is it will never try to un-tune your ful throttle setting because no matter what you do it will not make adjustments to the LTFT or STFT under full throttle.

 

Are you 100% sure about that? As a completely unscientific test when I first got my V-AFC I set it to the AOL settings (yeah yeah, i should of dyno tuned it. ) and for the next few weeks I had zero carbon buildup on my bumper. After a while it started to come back again like it had been stock. I pulled the fuse and the carbon buildup dissapeared again for a few weeks. The V-AFC was only tuned for the 50%+ throttle input, and our cars run lean at cruising anyway. After I did the workaround the carbon buildup was never an issue again until now.. But that's only because I richened up everything because I added some mods. Need to get dyno tuned again...

 

to get around the OBD2 just over night disconnect your negative wire from ur batt.. then in the morning put it back and let ur car warm up for 15 mins... do this like every 2 weeks...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blk97lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to get around the OBD2 just over night disconnect your negative wire from ur batt.. then in the morning put it back and let ur car warm up for 15 mins... do this like every 2 weeks...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Man - that's just silly. Yes it will work, but you can do the same thing by pulling the 7.5 amp clock/radio fuse for about 30 seconds.

Paul

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you 100% sure about that? As a completely unscientific test when I first got my V-AFC I set it to the AOL settings (yeah yeah, i should of dyno tuned it. ) and for the next few weeks I had zero carbon buildup on my bumper. After a while it started to come back again like it had been stock. I pulled the fuse and the carbon buildup dissapeared again for a few weeks. The V-AFC was only tuned for the 50%+ throttle input, and our cars run lean at cruising anyway. After I did the workaround the carbon buildup was never an issue again until now.. But that's only because I richened up everything because I added some mods. Need to get dyno tuned again...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes i'm sure. your problem was that U tuned it for 50%+ throttle. That is not full throttle so yes the ECU will tune some of that out. U need to set the V-fac to about 93%+ throttle. The ECU will never try to tune under full throttle condition.