I want to get about 20 extra horsepower in the vtec band... what is the best reliable way to achieve this?

Would JDM 4-into-1 header + Sound Cat + exhaust = extra 15-20 hp?

My goal is to have about 215HP at the crank with ~2500lb for ~11.7 pwr/hp ratio... what else do I need beside the I/H/E to get 20 hp?

The reason for all this... I shouldn't have driven my friends Stook... damn it.

 

Well I had 175/125 at the wheels wuth just bolt-ons, and I considered my stock motor to be a little down on others (161/115), so that was about 210-215 crank, and I had no problems, and my gas mileage actually went UP.

 

Does your definition of "bolt-on's" refer to I/H/E ? If you don't mind me asking which specific I/H/E and other "bolt-on's" did you have on your ITR? Thanks.

 

AEM cai
AEM underdrive pulleys
AEM cam gears (+1 intake, -4 exhaust)
Comptech 4-2-1
Comptech Cat back
B&M f.p.r. (set at stock 52 psi off vacuum with the VTEC controller)
V-AFC (5,400 x-over, leaned out entire range)

Really you can remove the pulleys and the exhaust and not lose much.

Here's what i would have done in retrospect, and would have been faster .....

Spoon/SMS/Hytech header, hi-flow cat, AEM cai, cam gears, VTEC controller. Of course that's just me. There are probably other legitimate combos, but that is my choice.

Just those simple things, and some really good tuning, and you've got about 180 whp. Ahhh, if I only knew then what I know now!!

 

TypeR0207- Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Much appreciated.

Anyone else with other/same suggestions?

 

Really....and how much would all these goodies cost one power hungry ITR driver?

 

Spoon/SMS/Hytech header: $800-$1000
hi-flow cat: $170-$250
AEM cai: $150 (used)
cam gears: I dunno
VTEC controller: $300
-----------------------------
total: ~$1800 +/- $200

 

2000 bucks eh? I gotta wrk my as off !...or should I go w/ FI...dammit I wish i had like 3 ITRS...one as a daily driver, one FI'ed and one all motored...sigh...im gonna go buy a lottry ticket

 

HyTech header: $1300 shipped(damn high electric bills in California )
Custom Carsound Cat: $185 shipped
TODA cam gears: $285
A'PEXi V-AFC: $300 @ http://www.groupbuycenter.com
Dyno Time 2-3 hours @~$80.00 per hour: $240

Without installation(which is pretty easy): ~$2310

I'll let everyone know how the header turns out, as I am every so patiently waiting for my header, damn IRL cars keep taking up too much of John's time.
Austin


[Modified by 00itr0757, 3:16 PM 7/5/2001]

 

TypeR0207 - have u dyno'ed ur car or know howmuch hp/tq u gained from ur mods?

 

Ahahahahahahahaha! Don't we all think about that sometimes

Jon

 

When you hit those high 13's with only the bolt-on's, what kind of tires did you run on... stock RE010s?

Jon

 

Ok I'm gonna get flamed again for asking ?s that were probably asked but since we have everything here I'll jus ask....

whichh headers should I get? Spoon? COmptech? Jdm? what's the difference??
Which cam gears? High flow cat? Which exhaust? Apexi N1?
I've only see Apexi Vtec controllers so that's that...

thanks

 

I chose the Spoon Header, Carsound Cat, ApexN1 exhaust.

As far as cam gears, I think most would agree that Toda cam gears are the best.

 

Almost forgot...

There was a post not that long ago that alot of people listed their first mods. You should check it out since it also gave ideas on other cheap ways top gain power like advancing timing two degrees.

 

The best reliable way to achieve this is to wait for the RSX Type R to come here. It's also the only way to achieve this without raising the possibility of drivetrain warranty claims getting denied.

 

A Nitrous Oxide Systems wet port kit, properly installed, well more than 20hp, great torque gains, and plenty reliable if you have it installed by someone who's smart and don't f around with it.

 

Of course... but that would be 2-3 years from now. There's certainly a risk that I have to take (warranty wise).. that's why I was asking for the best possible reliable way to achieve this. BTW, if RSX-typeR ever gets over here, it'll likely to weigh in the neigborhood of 2700 lbs.. that won't get me the power-to-weight ratio of 11.7 that I need. Oh well... time to start saving up for the I/H/E + Cam gear.

 

ok...we all have to remember that I'm a freshly licensed (well its been 2 years but) basically i dont really know jack bout engines...now whats the difference between cams and cam gears? cams are the long "sticks" that make contact w/ the valves..right? ...the gears do hat?