Ok heres the deal i have a pr3 ecu in a 89 hf CRX. The engine light comes on and the car would not rev past 3K. It sounds like it hits a rev limiter. Every once in a while the engine light will go off and stay off untill I let the car come down to idle? any suggestions I havent had a chance to get any codes The ecu light doesnt blink. Any ideas???


Modified by legutki at 7:08 PM 5/6/2003

 

I had a similar problem when i first swapped my b16a into my rex, it turned out to be my tps sensor. I had to swap in another one.

 

Sorry if I go off on you, but WHAT THE **** is with all you people and revving the **** out of your swaps when you have CELs? If your check engine light is on, take the 10 seconds to pull back the carpet, get the code, and start fixing the problem. I've seen so many posts lately that say, "I can only rev to 7600RPM, I'm throwing three timing codes, and an O2 sensor code is this my problem?". If you want help, get the codes, give your engine a break just in case you messed something up during the install.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by legutki &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok heres the deal i have a pr3 ecu in a 89 hf CRX. The engine light comes on and the car would rev past 3K. It sounds like it hits a rev limiter. Every once in a while the engine light will go off and stay off untill I let the car come down to idle? any suggestions I havent had a chance to get any codes The ecu light doesnt blink. Any ideas???</TD></TR></TABLE>

You haven't checked any codes yet, your CEL is on and you call this a mind boggler? If it was throwing NO codes it might be a mind boggler; come back when you've fixed what the ECU is telling you is wrong!

 

I think that's what he's trying to say. It's not throwing codes, so he hasn't been able to get any.
Oh, and please do give your engine a break. Continuing to try and rev it isn't going to make it fix itself.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liquid51 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think that's what he's trying to say. It's not throwing codes, so he hasn't been able to get any.
Oh, and please do give your engine a break. Continuing to try and rev it isn't going to make it fix itself.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If your check engine light is on, your throwing at least one code.

 

You might want to check up on reading codes too, because you said that your check engine light doesn't blink, well it's not supposed to. The thing that blinks is an LED inside your ECU. Your ECU can be found usually underneath the passenger side front carpet. You'll see a kickplate over it usually, but with your swap they might not have put the kick plate back, or drilled the hole to see the LED.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liquid51 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think that's what he's trying to say. It's not throwing codes, so he hasn't been able to get any.
Oh, and please do give your engine a break. Continuing to try and rev it isn't going to make it fix itself.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Read it again... he's not saying it's not throwing codes, he's saying he hasn't checked them yet... I read it that way the 1st few times too

 

crank sensor did that for me.. a pin wasn't touching...

the other thing would be to check with a scan tool to see what sensor would be failing the input... if you have a scanner with a lcd that does datalogging.. we have an OTC GENESIS that works great...

if it doesn't rev past 3000 it's an ignition problem.. sensors that affect, not coolant, not o2, map, will make hte car run in limp mode so you'dh ave a light, so i must be distributor sensors.. or something shorting.....

 

Let me clear some stuff up for you since you have all this built up anger. First im not reving my engine up . I just swapped my engine and ran a test run. after 2-3 miles me engine light comes on. Wont go above 3k rpm. It redlines at 8200 no where near maximun rev capabilities. im not sitting in my driveway giving it gas untill the rev limiter comes on. Stop coming to your own conclusions im just trying to get help from my fellow HT members oh yeah The ecu is not blinking.

 

Step 1. Reset ECU (If you don't know how search)
Step 2. Let idle until up to temp.
Step 3. If it revs smooth and there is no apparent leaks or smoke take it for a light test run.

If the check engine light comes on at any point, stop what you're doing, pull over and check the code, that way we can get this all taken care of.

 

PENT UP ANGER!! WHAT PENT UP ANGER!!!

 

ok heres the deal ive had several non obd swaps using a pr3 and i ve had the same promblems b4 . It is 1 or more of 5 things.
1.crank sensor (inside dizzy)
2.knock
3.tps
4. o2
5.map

count flashes on the ecu and let us know what u got .

 

What about Jesus?

 

Jesus died on the cross and was raised frm the dead after 3 days by GOD to take away the sins of man. So that whoever believes in him shall have eternal life. john 3:16 So if you confess Jesus is LORD and believe in you heart that GOD raised him from the dead you will be saved! Romans 10:9 Its that easy to be sure you will be going to heaven when you die. So take some time and ask Jesus to forgive all you sins and ask him to be your LORD and savior and give you the gift of eternal life


Modified by legutki at 4:03 PM 5/8/2003


Modified by legutki at 7:17 PM 5/8/2003

 

ok guys i learned that the ECU doesnt have to flash to give a code! (dont laugh) The ECU light stay on no flashes = code 0 wiring problem fun! i guess i got a short somewhere. any suggestion how to solve this quickly. I never worked a volt meter but i guess im going to learn.

 

Actually, I re-read his first post and he said his ecu light was not blinking. Ecu light and check engine light are two different things. And I'm not claiming to be an expert. I didn't know there was a zero code either.

Oh, and I'm not sure if there's a quick way to do it. Just take your time and be careful. Keep in mind, that's my non-expert advice.

BTW, if some part of the wiring was bad, wouldn't that translate to the ecu that whatever sensor is connected to that wire is bad? What kind of wiring problems result in a code zero?

 

I always thought code 0 was bad ECU?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liquid51 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BTW, if some part of the wiring was bad, wouldn't that translate to the ecu that whatever sensor is connected to that wire is bad? What kind of wiring problems result in a code zero?</TD></TR></TABLE>


Code 0 , yes, means bad ecu, but it could be due to a number of things.

legutki,

is your ecu completely stock or reprogrammed, to your knowledge? Do you have access to another B16A ecu that you can try/test out ?

3000rpm redline is an ecu related issue.
Either something is shorting out the ecu somewhere; the ecu is just plain bad; the ecu has been crappily reprogrammed and/or reprogrammed eprom chip simply came loose.

Disconnected sensors (map, tps, iat) wouldn't create a 3K rpm redline, but the car would definitely run like crap w/any or all of those sensors unplugged..

 

I totally agree with you about the whole thing of there is a lot of different things it could mean, however, some distributor/timing related codes will cause the engine to rev limit at 3000, things like code 4, 8, and 9.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Code 0 , yes, means bad ecu, but it could be due to a number of things.

legutki,

is your ecu completely stock or reprogrammed, to your knowledge? Do you have access to another B16A ecu that you can try/test out ?

3000rpm redline is an ecu related issue.
Either something is shorting out the ecu somewhere; the ecu is just plain bad; the ecu has been crappily reprogrammed and/or reprogrammed eprom chip simply came loose.

Disconnected sensors (map, tps, iat) wouldn't create a 3K rpm redline, but the car would definitely run like crap w/any or all of those sensors unplugged..</TD></TR></TABLE>
couldnt a bad distributor cause a false rev limit also?

but yes, check the codes, this is not a mind boggler.

 

ok so you dont get a flash.. now are you jumping the connector to allow it to flash?

it stays on at first.. then you can stick a wire or somethign up there, to create the "flashing" motion. where then you will get the code.. If your just looking at it and its not flashing, that dont mean its a code 0 it means its no jumped yet.

hope that helps!

 

its a pr3 odbo ecu you dont have to jump it to get a code and i have no way of swapping ecu to see if it works. What if i put my oem crx ecu in there and just let it idle would that work to see if the cel goes off? the ecu was reprogramed before i ever did my swap to take keep it in open loop.


Modified by legutki at 4:59 PM 5/9/2003


Modified by legutki at 5:02 PM 5/9/2003

 

are you looking at the light on your dash, or the light on the ecu itself? and yes you do have to jump to make it throw the code.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by legutki &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What if i put my oem crx ecu in there and just let it idle would that work to see if the cel goes off? the ecu was reprogramed before i ever did my swap to take keep it in open loop.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes...try your CRX ecu, if its an Si (PM6) ecu...let us know how it runs with that ecu plugged in.