if i built the b16a2 would that run pretty good? reliable? with h/i/e could i run 13's? all info is appreciated!!

 

Be more specific. Build is very general. Are you talking internals? If not don't even think about 13's. Again it depends on what you put in it though.

 

yeah, i mean internal, such as a stroker kit??

 

If you want 13's with a b16a you need boost.Don't waste your money on a stroker kit, build a crvtec of you want more displacement.
Or drop a h22 in.
The money spent on stroker kit and labor could be put to use on a turbo that could easily get you low 13's and into the 12's

 

I completely agree with hybrid. Too much money in the motor. For that you could drop in an h22 and put cams in it and have some money left to play with. Say you are looking at 2500 to get the motor in, then you are looking at at least another 2 for the stroker kit, plus the head work and cams will be at least another 1500. Then your transmission will need at least 1500. LSD and clutch and flywheel. I think I got it all. Or you could drop in an h22 for roughly 4500 and call it a day and come close to your 13s. Then put nitrous and guarantee it. The route I would prefer. Good luck.

 

should i get a turbo kit or do all custom? anybody got any dyno #'s from a boosted b16a?? and whats the setup?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should i get a turbo kit or do all custom? anybody got any dyno #'s from a boosted b16a?? and whats the setup?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Read my sig.
.65 bar using a garrett T3T40E.
custom set-up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16ahybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want 13's with a b16a you need boost.Don't waste your money on a stroker kit, build a crvtec of you want more displacement.
Or drop a h22 in.
The money spent on stroker kit and labor could be put to use on a turbo that could easily get you low 13's and into the 12's</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry, but I have to say I disagree with this. I have a B17 in my 93 CX hatch and the only internals I am using are CTR pistons. It has r valve train on a stock B16 head and absolutely no tunning. In fact, this was back when it was running way too rich and had several problems. I am using a stock 99 Si intake manifold along with the 58mm 1st gen B16 tb also and I turned a 14.1 @ 99.9mph on street tires with a 2.3 60ft. There is no need to boost a B16/B17 in a light car such as a hatch. I am sure that with some tunning, cams, tb and a better intake I can see mid/high 13's on streets.

 

might sound dumb but what is a b17? specs? price?

 

B17 is a 92-93 GSR engine. It was produced only in the states and only for the two years listed. They only made 1,500 of them as well. Its basically a stroked B16 and is rated at 160hp and 117ft lbs of torque stock with the same redline as the B16.

 

Why 13's and why a b16a? Whats wrong with your h22? You people need to get your heads out of your asses.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sorry, but I have to say I disagree with this. I have a B17 in my 93 CX hatch and the only internals I am using are CTR pistons. It has r valve train on a stock B16 head and absolutely no tunning. In fact, this was back when it was running way too rich and had several problems. I am using a stock 99 Si intake manifold along with the 58mm 1st gen B16 tb also and I turned a 14.1 @ 99.9mph on street tires with a 2.3 60ft. There is no need to boost a B16/B17 in a light car such as a hatch. I am sure that with some tunning, cams, tb and a better intake I can see mid/high 13's on streets.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're forgetting that he's talking about an EK hatch. They're a few hundred pounds heavier which makes a big difference. And you have a b17. I know it's not much but every little bit of displacement helps and you have pretty high compression. So running a 14.1 in a 93 CX (which is light as hell) with a high CR b17 isn't comparable to trying to run 13's in an EK hatch with a b16.

If you can get the b16 cheap I would turbo or supercharge it and that would probably get you into the 13's. If you want to do the stroker kit or stay NA save yourself some money and get a 1.8 to begin with. I think trying to build the b16 NA would be tough to get all motor. I've got a fairly well built b16a2 in my '00 DX hatch and I'm at high 14's. Granted it should come down more and I have full interior (NO weight reduction what so ever) so it's not gonna be easy or cheap. Boost that sucker!

s

 

i dont have a h22 i want one though. right now its too much money. why b16a, cause i can get one for $1100 for the whole swap. what other motor can i get that drops right in and that cheap? none

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont have a h22 i want one though. right now its too much money. why b16a, cause i can get one for $1100 for the whole swap. what other motor can i get that drops right in and that cheap? none</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, which b16a? If it's a JDM 1st gen one then it'll be a little more complicated because the engine has a cable tranny and the car is hydro cable equipped so you'll have to get a conversion, it's not much but easy enough. A b16a2 (from the USDM Si) would literally be a direct drop in. Just lettin you know if you didn't already. Like I said boost that baby to hit 13's.

s

 

what about jdm, isnt it a direct drop in also? where do i get a usdm? also im going with the 2nd gen

 

how much is the si rear mount and where to find one? other than that thats all i need right? what about a/c? i dont care about power steering really