Has anyone ever replaced all of the bushings in the suspension with the master urethane kit? I have the kit and want to change them out this week but i wanted to see if anyone had any suggestons on how difficult it will be.. any info will be appreciated..
thanx nate

 

search for enegy suspension
there is a big thread about it already

 

just had mine done. pay a shop to do it, its a pain in the ***.

 

Hehe...my fried just did one on his '95 Civic...w/ shop tools it's still a pain in the ***...I say get a shop...

 

I've worked so hard to get mine done on my 89. I don't think jews worked that hard in the concentration camps as I did doing those f$#%(#& bushings. be prepared to cut all your bolts.

 

where you get your bushing kit from

 

i got the kit from ebay for like 100 bux.. i will do another search but the last one didn't come up with sh#$... thanx for the info,,,

 

If your a weak bitch than pay someone to do it. Its not that hard if your mech. inclined. Just have the LCA bushings pressed out by a shop, bring the arms there. I'm not going any further since I've replied to too many of these questions.

 

Plus they'll charge you out the hizze yO. Just do it yourself and learn to work on your car...it's a good thing.

 

if you are just going to do it with some hand tools, have fun

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ef ***** &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your a weak bitch than pay someone to do it. Its not that hard if your mech. inclined. Just have the LCA bushings pressed out by a shop, bring the arms there. I'm not going any further since I've replied to too many of these questions.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you are a mannly man do those yourself too. It's not THAT hard. It's actually kind of fun! You get to play with a propane torch and a hacksaw! FUN FUN FUN!!!

 

I did mine and there are a LOT of cool tricks that you guys are not utilizing.

You do NOT need a propane torch. As a matter of fact, there are a LOT quicker and less SMELLY ways to do so.

Tools, basic sockets blah blah blah
-drill with drill bits (be prepared to break a couple if you're not careful)
-a die grinder with a grinder bit. Hell, a sawzall might work too!
-GOOD vise grips.
-a ball joint remover/installer is pretty cool to have also
-c-clamp will be handy...
Listen up:

Remove the LCA from the car. You probably know about snapping the bolts and such. so that part is up to you on how you want to get around it. If a bolt snaps, OH WELL, you're replacing the bushing anyways. Just have some extra bolts handy.

Once the LCA is out of the car. Get your drill and with a drill bit (you pick the size. I'd say ~1/4" drill bit) drill around the rubber part of the bushing. just space it out evenly as close as you can. Doesn't have to be EXACTLY next to each other, but be close....

Now. once you're done drilling, get the vise grips. Grab the metal part, clamp on and turn it. Whoola, the rubber is out and you didn't need to TORCH it out.

The fun and kinda tedious part is next, so I will give you multiple suggestoins:

-If you are crafty with an air hammer. You can goto wal-mart and they have this 3-prong air hammer bit that is like a sheet metal cutter type of bit. It comes in a pack of 4 assortment (a flat cutter, a pointy punch, and a V shaped cutter and the 3-prong guy) for 14.97, and is in the automotive section. Use the air hammer and use the slicer but to "cut" down the shell that is still in the LCA. That should drive the shell out and you are ready to put your bushings in.


-Other step is the die grinder. Grab a die grinder and cut a slit down the shell, then you can basically just tap it and it'll fall out.

-Use a bench vise... clamp the LCA in it, grab your sawzall, cut a slit in the shell. Tap the rest of the shell once you have a slit in it.

The key to removing the shell from the control arm is to cut it so it isn't pressing "outward" and holding itself in place. Be crafty and it'll work. No torch is needed!!! but do as you please.

In the master bushing set, it also gives you 2- front upper control arm bushings. Do it if you want... I don't think you can get a drill bit small enough between the small layer of rubber and you kinda need a clamp of some sort of kinda press those lil boogers in.

The rest of the bushings somewhat just "pop" into place. Apply lube, and I just used a hammer and kinda worked the new ES bushings in there. Read the instructions and setup all your bushings in advance and you'll save time. Grab a lil tape measure and measure all the gold/bronze/copper tubes to make sure you have the correct length and just put the bushings "together" so you don't mix up what you need and such.

Good luck and have fun.

SOMEONE needs to put this on a website somewhere
-Chuong

 

Nice post. So much info to process....

 

oh yea, and what ever you do, if you have to get your rear trailing arm out, do not touch the inner compensator arm bolt. ONLY undo the outer one on the trailing arm.
What happened to me was a bolt and bushing was turning. Closer inspection reveiled that bolt was turning in the actual body! To fix that was a big headache.

 

I've worked so hard to get mine done on my 89. I don't think jews worked that hard in the concentration camps as I did doing those f$#%(#& bushings.
reply

haha