What is a I/H/E and how much does it cost for a 2002 I-4 Accord Coupe?
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: SoCal
Re: What is a I/H/E and how much does it cost for a 2002 I-4 Accord Coupe? (aaaallll04)
i/h/e is refer to the "bolt on" aka cheap common mod that make your car faster, alittle bit faster
intake/header/exhaust
how much? depend what brand you going for.
intake/header/exhaust
how much? depend what brand you going for.
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,342
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From: MD
Re: What is a I/H/E and how much does it cost for a 2002 I-4 Accord Coupe? (iam7head)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well without tuning</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea one of the main compent's...i wouldnt run any type of F/I on a honda without some type of tuning....
to answer your question start with aem cold air or short ram, dc sport header and there are many exhaust for our cars look around here.
yea one of the main compent's...i wouldnt run any type of F/I on a honda without some type of tuning....
to answer your question start with aem cold air or short ram, dc sport header and there are many exhaust for our cars look around here.
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Columbus, OH, United States
Re: What is a I/H/E and how much does it cost for a 2002 I-4 Accord Coupe? (aaaallll04)
Honestly I don't think I/H/E is worth a damn. 
If you actually want to see some power spend a bit more and go forced induction.
If you actually want to see some power spend a bit more and go forced induction.
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,342
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From: MD
Re: What is a I/H/E and how much does it cost for a 2002 I-4 Accord Coupe? (3700 Vtec)
well with FI you would still want an exhaust unless you want to restrict air that much more...i think i/h/e is a start for must people and does help but not enough to out weigh cost of it
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From: New York
Re: What is a I/H/E and how much does it cost for a 2002 I-4 Accord Coupe? (3700 Vtec)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3700 Vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honestly I don't think I/H/E is worth a damn.
If you actually want to see some power spend a bit more and go forced induction.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you cant do an NA build without it, theres no need for blanket statments, just because DC headers dont do much, does mean there isnt a header out there that makes power
If you actually want to see some power spend a bit more and go forced induction.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you cant do an NA build without it, theres no need for blanket statments, just because DC headers dont do much, does mean there isnt a header out there that makes power
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Columbus, OH, United States
Re: What is a I/H/E and how much does it cost for a 2002 I-4 Accord Coupe? (Nick M)
I just think intake and header isn't worth a whole lot for the cost. For about 600 bucks you might get 10 hp at the wheels from those two.
If I were to start over again, I would have just saved up for a turbo and probaly would have been happy, instead of pissing away money for a couple of hp here and there.
If I were to start over again, I would have just saved up for a turbo and probaly would have been happy, instead of pissing away money for a couple of hp here and there.
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Columbus, OH, United States
Re: What is a I/H/E and how much does it cost for a 2002 I-4 Accord Coupe? (aaaallll04)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aaaallll04 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont know what i should do. I really dont know where to start to make it faster? WHAT DO YOU THINK????????????????????? 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is it 5 speed or auto? If its auto don't even bother with any type of preformance.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Is it 5 speed or auto? If its auto don't even bother with any type of preformance.
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: St Hyacinthe, Qc, Can
Re: What is a I/H/E and how much does it cost for a 2002 I-4 Accord Coupe? (aaaallll04)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aaaallll04 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont know what i should do. I really dont know where to start to make it faster? WHAT DO YOU THINK????????????????????? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, some seem to disagree about this, but if you're going to go NA, there are things you can do to make good power, even with an auto. Here are some suggestions, some are costly, some are not (for an auto, mainly, but still worthy for a manual).
1. You can start up with I/H/E (intake, header, exhaust). Moderately costly, but hey, you gotta start there anyways
2. You should start thinking about fighting the weight: mostly free mod, one of the best thing to do in helping performance. Out goes the spare tire, jack, if you want to keep a stock interior, at least strip out the tar, and replace with lining (ex: Rhino or Gator, don't remember which) Buy yourself a smaller battery, etc, etc, go on as much as you're willing to sacrifice driveability.
3. Go further into bolt-ons: Lightweight pulleys, FPR, adjustable cam gear, maybe VAFC (does it work on a 6th gen??), and start working on your ECU as well
4. By now you make pretty decent power, but your tranny drags your times down: Go with a stage ten auto ($$), will get your tranny going better, and stealing less whp.
5. Your tranny goes well, you need to make some serious power: you will start with a CNC port & polish, mill the head (although it will yield very minor gains, if any), 3 angle valve job, etc.
6. Once you got the flow, you gotta turn it into power, which means changing to a more aggressive cam, and to get all your cam could yield, you better get higher compression pistons (forged), lighter rods, valves, etc.
Well, I probably forgot about a few things here and there, but with that sort of setup, you could easily get some low 14's ¼ mile times. The only advantage you would have with a 5-speed, except for the gearing itself, would be that you can add a lightened flywheel, which helps you enhance torque greatly. I'd add the flywheel right after the I/H/E, it is really worth it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Well, some seem to disagree about this, but if you're going to go NA, there are things you can do to make good power, even with an auto. Here are some suggestions, some are costly, some are not (for an auto, mainly, but still worthy for a manual).
1. You can start up with I/H/E (intake, header, exhaust). Moderately costly, but hey, you gotta start there anyways
2. You should start thinking about fighting the weight: mostly free mod, one of the best thing to do in helping performance. Out goes the spare tire, jack, if you want to keep a stock interior, at least strip out the tar, and replace with lining (ex: Rhino or Gator, don't remember which) Buy yourself a smaller battery, etc, etc, go on as much as you're willing to sacrifice driveability.
3. Go further into bolt-ons: Lightweight pulleys, FPR, adjustable cam gear, maybe VAFC (does it work on a 6th gen??), and start working on your ECU as well
4. By now you make pretty decent power, but your tranny drags your times down: Go with a stage ten auto ($$), will get your tranny going better, and stealing less whp.
5. Your tranny goes well, you need to make some serious power: you will start with a CNC port & polish, mill the head (although it will yield very minor gains, if any), 3 angle valve job, etc.
6. Once you got the flow, you gotta turn it into power, which means changing to a more aggressive cam, and to get all your cam could yield, you better get higher compression pistons (forged), lighter rods, valves, etc.
Well, I probably forgot about a few things here and there, but with that sort of setup, you could easily get some low 14's ¼ mile times. The only advantage you would have with a 5-speed, except for the gearing itself, would be that you can add a lightened flywheel, which helps you enhance torque greatly. I'd add the flywheel right after the I/H/E, it is really worth it.
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From: MEGA
Re: What is a I/H/E and how much does it cost for a 2002 I-4 Accord Coupe? (sauceman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sauceman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well, some seem to disagree about this, but if you're going to go NA, there are things you can do to make good power, even with an auto. Here are some suggestions, some are costly, some are not (for an auto, mainly, but still worthy for a manual).
1. You can start up with I/H/E (intake, header, exhaust). Moderately costly, but hey, you gotta start there anyways
2. You should start thinking about fighting the weight: mostly free mod, one of the best thing to do in helping performance. Out goes the spare tire, jack, if you want to keep a stock interior, at least strip out the tar, and replace with lining (ex: Rhino or Gator, don't remember which) Buy yourself a smaller battery, etc, etc, go on as much as you're willing to sacrifice driveability.
3. Go further into bolt-ons: Lightweight pulleys, FPR, adjustable cam gear, maybe VAFC (does it work on a 6th gen??), and start working on your ECU as well
4. By now you make pretty decent power, but your tranny drags your times down: Go with a stage ten auto ($$), will get your tranny going better, and stealing less whp.
5. Your tranny goes well, you need to make some serious power: you will start with a CNC port & polish, mill the head (although it will yield very minor gains, if any), 3 angle valve job, etc.
6. Once you got the flow, you gotta turn it into power, which means changing to a more aggressive cam, and to get all your cam could yield, you better get higher compression pistons (forged), lighter rods, valves, etc.
Well, I probably forgot about a few things here and there, but with that sort of setup, you could easily get some low 14's ¼ mile times. The only advantage you would have with a 5-speed, except for the gearing itself, would be that you can add a lightened flywheel, which helps you enhance torque greatly. I'd add the flywheel right after the I/H/E, it is really worth it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
or you could have taken allll that money, and bought a fast car to begin with.
Well, some seem to disagree about this, but if you're going to go NA, there are things you can do to make good power, even with an auto. Here are some suggestions, some are costly, some are not (for an auto, mainly, but still worthy for a manual).
1. You can start up with I/H/E (intake, header, exhaust). Moderately costly, but hey, you gotta start there anyways
2. You should start thinking about fighting the weight: mostly free mod, one of the best thing to do in helping performance. Out goes the spare tire, jack, if you want to keep a stock interior, at least strip out the tar, and replace with lining (ex: Rhino or Gator, don't remember which) Buy yourself a smaller battery, etc, etc, go on as much as you're willing to sacrifice driveability.
3. Go further into bolt-ons: Lightweight pulleys, FPR, adjustable cam gear, maybe VAFC (does it work on a 6th gen??), and start working on your ECU as well
4. By now you make pretty decent power, but your tranny drags your times down: Go with a stage ten auto ($$), will get your tranny going better, and stealing less whp.
5. Your tranny goes well, you need to make some serious power: you will start with a CNC port & polish, mill the head (although it will yield very minor gains, if any), 3 angle valve job, etc.
6. Once you got the flow, you gotta turn it into power, which means changing to a more aggressive cam, and to get all your cam could yield, you better get higher compression pistons (forged), lighter rods, valves, etc.
Well, I probably forgot about a few things here and there, but with that sort of setup, you could easily get some low 14's ¼ mile times. The only advantage you would have with a 5-speed, except for the gearing itself, would be that you can add a lightened flywheel, which helps you enhance torque greatly. I'd add the flywheel right after the I/H/E, it is really worth it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>or you could have taken allll that money, and bought a fast car to begin with.
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,193
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From: St Hyacinthe, Qc, Can
Re: What is a I/H/E and how much does it cost for a 2002 I-4 Accord Coupe? (UCBGSR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UCBGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
or you could have taken allll that money, and bought a fast car to begin with.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Smart! Reread his question. Seems to me, that was not an option.
or you could have taken allll that money, and bought a fast car to begin with.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Smart!
Reread his question. Seems to me, that was not an option.
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 17,222
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From: SoCal
Re: What is a I/H/E and how much does it cost for a 2002 I-4 Accord Coupe? (sauceman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sauceman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Smart! Reread his question. Seems to me, that was not an option.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol, yep, please dont start the cheap speed vs. fast stock car war.
Smart!
Reread his question. Seems to me, that was not an option.</TD></TR></TABLE>lol, yep, please dont start the cheap speed vs. fast stock car war.
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: SoCal
Re: What is a I/H/E and how much does it cost for a 2002 I-4 Accord Coupe? (WhoNeedsVtec)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WhoNeedsVtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yea one of the main compent's...i wouldnt run any type of F/I on a honda without some type of tuning....
to answer your question start with aem cold air or short ram, dc sport header and there are many exhaust for our cars look around here.</TD></TR></TABLE>
of course, vortech FMU, and Holley Walbro won't get you the max.power but real tunning devices cost an arm, hondata(need to switch to obd1), AEM ems and other standalong(not hack) seem to be the more popular choice, but again, it's not about FI
yea one of the main compent's...i wouldnt run any type of F/I on a honda without some type of tuning....
to answer your question start with aem cold air or short ram, dc sport header and there are many exhaust for our cars look around here.</TD></TR></TABLE>
of course, vortech FMU, and Holley Walbro won't get you the max.power but real tunning devices cost an arm, hondata(need to switch to obd1), AEM ems and other standalong(not hack) seem to be the more popular choice, but again, it's not about FI
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 17,222
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From: SoCal
Re: What is a I/H/E and how much does it cost for a 2002 I-4 Accord Coupe? (WhoNeedsVtec)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WhoNeedsVtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well with FI you would still want an exhaust unless you want to restrict air that much more...i think i/h/e is a start for must people and does help but not enough to out weigh cost of it</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good point, it help you spool up like 10x better with stock pipe vs 2.5-3inch catback(cat less catback that is)
Good point, it help you spool up like 10x better with stock pipe vs 2.5-3inch catback(cat less catback that is)
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