Can I convert a D16Y7 to run NON-OBD?
I found a 98 D16Y7 at a local yard with only 19k miles on it for $700 or a 96 with 72k for $500. Would I be able to swap the intake manifold and the dizzy and run it non OBD? I am not looking for huge power right now, just something that has low miles and a little more power then my stock D15B6.
Thanks
Thanks
The D16Y7 is an OBD-II engine. I am sure someone has gotten it to run with a different ECU, but why bother-just get all of the harnesses and the computer and install it. I had one in my 96 HB and it ran great stock. Go for the one with genuine low miles and have fun.
i think if u change your injectors and the dizzy to a obd0 then there shouldnt be any problem runnin a obd0 ecu. u might wanan check and make sure all the other little sensor plugs match up too. it would need to be mpfi parts, cannot use dx parts
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1st-hybrid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can't really answer that for sure, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.
My question is why not just convert to obd1? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Then I would need to buy a different ECU, do wireing and I wanted to go as cheap as possible. At some point I may upgrade to an Si ECU and tranny. For now I just want to replace my high milage, so I will be leaving the HF ECU and tranny.
My question is why not just convert to obd1? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Then I would need to buy a different ECU, do wireing and I wanted to go as cheap as possible. At some point I may upgrade to an Si ECU and tranny. For now I just want to replace my high milage, so I will be leaving the HF ECU and tranny.
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You would need to use your OBD-O injectors, distributor, and you could use your Y7 manifold if you extend the MAP sensor wires. Make sure you get a M/T version of it, because like a D16Y8 the auto versions have a different style IACV.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. S »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You would need to use your OBD-O injectors, distributor, and you could use your Y7 manifold if you extend the MAP sensor wires. Make sure you get a M/T version of it, because like a D16Y8 the auto versions have a different style IACV.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So if it has the mani I can use it, but how do I tell if it is from a manual or stick if there is no tranny with it?
So if it has the mani I can use it, but how do I tell if it is from a manual or stick if there is no tranny with it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civicboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So if it has the mani I can use it, but how do I tell if it is from a manual or stick if there is no tranny with it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Easy.
1. Does it come with a flexplate or flywheel?
2. M/T versions have the IACV on the back of the intake manifold. Auto versions have it on the Throttle Body, and it has 1 more wire than the M/T version.
Let me get this straight though... you're paying 700 US for a sohc non-vtec? You can find a D16Y8 for cheaper than that. I paid 850 cdn for a 96 D16Y8 with a bored out throttle body, AEM cam gear, complete wiring harness. It also had 62,000 kms on it.
So if it has the mani I can use it, but how do I tell if it is from a manual or stick if there is no tranny with it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Easy.
1. Does it come with a flexplate or flywheel?
2. M/T versions have the IACV on the back of the intake manifold. Auto versions have it on the Throttle Body, and it has 1 more wire than the M/T version.
Let me get this straight though... you're paying 700 US for a sohc non-vtec? You can find a D16Y8 for cheaper than that. I paid 850 cdn for a 96 D16Y8 with a bored out throttle body, AEM cam gear, complete wiring harness. It also had 62,000 kms on it.
I haven't bought it yet, I'm still looking around. I just wanted to know if it would work becasue I was just looking for the lowest miles I could find and that is what I found. I don't want to convert to a Vtec motor, because then I would have to buy an ECU and do some wireing. Thanks for the info.
It's a 100% direct bolt in.
I did that exact same swap a few times already.
You just need to do a long block swap.
Keep both complete manifolds, use ALL the mounts AND brackets from your current engine, transplant the AC compressor, distributor and you are done.
Easy as heck.
the nice thing is that unlike the D16Z6. the D16Y7 head uses the same mounting holes for the distributor, so you just bolt it in.
It's the easyest, most straight forward swap you could do on a CRX or Civic (EF).
EDIT:
Just remember. there is one modification you need to do.
the D16A6 (CRXSi) uses a block mounted thermoswitch, while the D16Y7 has it on the thermostat housing. So you will need the plug for that from a 92+ civic.
Just lenghten the wires and plug it in.
I did that exact same swap a few times already.
You just need to do a long block swap.
Keep both complete manifolds, use ALL the mounts AND brackets from your current engine, transplant the AC compressor, distributor and you are done.
Easy as heck.
the nice thing is that unlike the D16Z6. the D16Y7 head uses the same mounting holes for the distributor, so you just bolt it in.
It's the easyest, most straight forward swap you could do on a CRX or Civic (EF).
EDIT:
Just remember. there is one modification you need to do.
the D16A6 (CRXSi) uses a block mounted thermoswitch, while the D16Y7 has it on the thermostat housing. So you will need the plug for that from a 92+ civic.
Just lenghten the wires and plug it in.
Very cool thanks
The car its going into is a HF will the thermo sensor be the same? Thanks
Modified by Civicboy at 4:29 PM 5/3/2003
The car its going into is a HF will the thermo sensor be the same? ThanksModified by Civicboy at 4:29 PM 5/3/2003
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