got the right muffler from john at hytech
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 390
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From: SaCrAmEnTo, CaLiFoRnIa, U.S.A
see it was only a mixup. he was moving and got the boxes labled wrong
heres the pics
to view a bigger image just add " .orig.jpg " at the end of the link
heres the pics
to view a bigger image just add " .orig.jpg " at the end of the link
what about your header? did he send you the version you wanted? or am i thinking of someone else? hehe!
i've always wondered about how to put the exhaust together. do you just slip the end into each other and weld it? or does the piping stay together on its own?
i've always wondered about how to put the exhaust together. do you just slip the end into each other and weld it? or does the piping stay together on its own?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
From: SaCrAmEnTo, CaLiFoRnIa, U.S.A
well its a total of three pieces header muffler and the long pipe that goes from the header to the muffler fergot what its called but it already had a cat and resonator welded on so i just basically bolt everthing on and the muffler slides together and then bolt it tight
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeRod »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i've always wondered about how to put the exhaust together. do you just slip the end into each other and weld it? or does the piping stay together on its own?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't weld it, it has two little fittings that you bolt together to keep them from separating. Originally there were no fittings and it still stayed together fine with the slip fits but he added the bolt for good measure.
i've always wondered about how to put the exhaust together. do you just slip the end into each other and weld it? or does the piping stay together on its own?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't weld it, it has two little fittings that you bolt together to keep them from separating. Originally there were no fittings and it still stayed together fine with the slip fits but he added the bolt for good measure.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by capcon83 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
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is john going to try to patent this design too?
</TD></TR></TABLE>is john going to try to patent this design too?
I've never looked into it, and maybe this has been beaten to death before, but A) does the 'loop' design increase performance? B) If so, how?
Just wondering.
Just wondering.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nerdish »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've never looked into it, and maybe this has been beaten to death before, but A) does the 'loop' design increase performance? B) If so, how?
Just wondering.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's there to decrease the sound, it's essentially a straight through design with a loop, I couldn't give you the exacts on why, can't remember at the moment.
Austin
Just wondering.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's there to decrease the sound, it's essentially a straight through design with a loop, I couldn't give you the exacts on why, can't remember at the moment.
Austin
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Austin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's there to decrease the sound, it's essentially a straight through design with a loop, I couldn't give you the exacts on why, can't remember at the moment.
Austin</TD></TR></TABLE>
by passing through the cannister twice you are effectively doubling the cannister size which decreases the sound.
It's there to decrease the sound, it's essentially a straight through design with a loop, I couldn't give you the exacts on why, can't remember at the moment.
Austin</TD></TR></TABLE>
by passing through the cannister twice you are effectively doubling the cannister size which decreases the sound.
how's the sound <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by capcon83 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">see it was only a mixup. he was moving and got the boxes labled wrong
heres the pics
to view a bigger image just add " .orig.jpg " at the end of the link
anyone have idea how's the sound and power compare with mugen?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
heres the pics
to view a bigger image just add " .orig.jpg " at the end of the link
anyone have idea how's the sound and power compare with mugen?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Here's a short video clip of the HyTech on my car revving.
w ww.imagestation.com/video/view.html?id=4240291980&dl=1
(yes there is an extra space between the two w's but just remove that, I did it so the board doesn't create a link out of the URL)
w ww.imagestation.com/video/view.html?id=4240291980&dl=1
(yes there is an extra space between the two w's but just remove that, I did it so the board doesn't create a link out of the URL)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by n1ek »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
by passing through the cannister twice you are effectively doubling the cannister size which decreases the sound.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Phase cancellation also comes into play. By repeataing the same sound exactly 180 degrees out of phase you completely cancel out all sound. As used in a twin-loop muffler this only works on certain resonant frequencies.
by passing through the cannister twice you are effectively doubling the cannister size which decreases the sound.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Phase cancellation also comes into play. By repeataing the same sound exactly 180 degrees out of phase you completely cancel out all sound. As used in a twin-loop muffler this only works on certain resonant frequencies.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MK Ultra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Phase cancellation also comes into play. By repeataing the same sound exactly 180 degrees out of phase you completely cancel out all sound. As used in a twin-loop muffler this only works on certain resonant frequencies. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow, that must be a quiet exhaust. How can you tell when the car is on?
How are you mirroring the phase of the exhaust note by sending it through the cannister a second time?
do you work for bose?
Phase cancellation also comes into play. By repeataing the same sound exactly 180 degrees out of phase you completely cancel out all sound. As used in a twin-loop muffler this only works on certain resonant frequencies. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow, that must be a quiet exhaust. How can you tell when the car is on?
How are you mirroring the phase of the exhaust note by sending it through the cannister a second time?
do you work for bose?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MK Ultra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Phase cancellation also comes into play. By repeataing the same sound exactly 180 degrees out of phase you completely cancel out all sound. As used in a twin-loop muffler this only works on certain resonant frequencies. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, but how do you know if it the sound (on it's way back around) is exactly 180 degrees out of phase? I guess through testing and figuring out the right length and such..
Phase cancellation also comes into play. By repeataing the same sound exactly 180 degrees out of phase you completely cancel out all sound. As used in a twin-loop muffler this only works on certain resonant frequencies. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, but how do you know if it the sound (on it's way back around) is exactly 180 degrees out of phase? I guess through testing and figuring out the right length and such..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SurferX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's a short video clip of the HyTech on my car revving.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Josh, Do you have a clip while under power, maybe on the dyno?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Josh, Do you have a clip while under power, maybe on the dyno?



waiting for the day to order his