I'm having some problems with the hydraulic end of my clutch on my '96 GSR, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Here's what I've experienced....
Yesterday....wouldn't go into any gear with clutch completely pressed to floor, felt pressure on clutch pedel...I forced into reverse through nasty grinding and she stalled out. I tried again, out of stupidity, by reving up 1st and then forcing into reverse, hoped back and did move, but decided to just park her for the night.
Today....started her up and she slid right into gear, drove around for about an hour without any problems whatsoever. I have been experiencing slight difficuties with the clutch recently...spongy pedel, difficutly in and out of gears at times, and it seems that the clutch fluid gets dirty alot sooner than I would expect. I bled the system about a month ago, and bleeding has always been an improvement. Thanks again for any advice, or even a direction you guys can point me in.

 

mine is doing the same ******* thing....my stage 3 came in today...its getting put in while im at carlisle...if it aint the clutch....im gonna ****** flip...and i changed the fluid as well and it seemed to help for a little bit...does anyone know what this is exactly???????

 

Just a guess, but could the hose, metal line, or seals and other parts in the master or slave cylinders be breaking down? It sounds kind of like when a brake hose separates internally and can keep the brakes from releasing. When the fluid looks dirty, does it have particles in it? Could the cap be damaged and letting in dirt? The slave cylinder is fairly low and gets hit with rain and general road "stuff" so they go bad more than the master cylinder on most cars. I've never had a Honda one go bad so I don't know for sure about them.

If the fluid gets dirty, the dirt is coming from somewhere. If the cap is good, then the dirt is from inside the system. I don't know if the master cylinder can be checked for proper pressure under load. My shop manual does not say anything about the guts of either part so I don't know how hard it would be to rebuild or even if it is possible.

Good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackacteg96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm having some problems with the hydraulic end of my clutch on my '96 GSR, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Here's what I've experienced....
Yesterday....wouldn't go into any gear with clutch completely pressed to floor, felt pressure on clutch pedel...I forced into reverse through nasty grinding and she stalled out. I tried again, out of stupidity, by reving up 1st and then forcing into reverse, hoped back and did move, but decided to just park her for the night.
Today....started her up and she slid right into gear, drove around for about an hour without any problems whatsoever. I have been experiencing slight difficuties with the clutch recently...spongy pedel, difficutly in and out of gears at times, and it seems that the clutch fluid gets dirty alot sooner than I would expect. I bled the system about a month ago, and bleeding has always been an improvement. Thanks again for any advice, or even a direction you guys can point me in. </TD></TR></TABLE> when it wouldn't go into gear. did u turn it back off and try again? try putting the car into 1st when the car is off...then start it up and tell me what happens...if the car lurches forward as if you were releasing the clutch it might be the pressure plate.

 

The easiest first step is to check the master cylinder.

Look under the pedal at the rod, and if it has grease on it, its bad. It should be completly dry.

 

If your clutch pedal has normal pressure than it shouldn't be your CMC

 

Put it in 1st with the car off and then turn it on if it lunges forward then its your clutch going bye-bye. My clutch was like that for about 3 weeks. You should definitely have it checked out before you have to get it towed. On the bright side you can look forward to a better set-up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackacteg96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm having some problems with the hydraulic end of my clutch on my '96 GSR, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Here's what I've experienced....
Yesterday....wouldn't go into any gear with clutch completely pressed to floor, felt pressure on clutch pedel...I forced into reverse through nasty grinding and she stalled out. I tried again, out of stupidity, by reving up 1st and then forcing into reverse, hoped back and did move, but decided to just park her for the night.
Today....started her up and she slid right into gear, drove around for about an hour without any problems whatsoever. I have been experiencing slight difficuties with the clutch recently...spongy pedel, difficutly in and out of gears at times, and it seems that the clutch fluid gets dirty alot sooner than I would expect. I bled the system about a month ago, and bleeding has always been an improvement. Thanks again for any advice, or even a direction you guys can point me in. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Easiest and most cost effective thing to do is to change your tranny oil and flush out your clutch fluid. These are two different things.

Both my car as well as my sisters car (both integras btw) had trouble shifting into gears. My car would grind if I tried to put it into gear while my sisters car would just not do anything, not even grind.

I tried the tranny fluid first and i still couldn't get my car to shift into gears properly, still grinding. FYI this would only happen when the engine is on. When the engine is off, I can easily shift it into any gear.

Anyhow, my sister ended up flushing out her clutch fluid and her car was good to go. So I decided to try the same thing. Man was my fluid dirty filthy. It was so dark, it looked like pepsi cola (except without the sizzling bubbles).

Anyways, I fired the car up and tried my gears... HELL YEAH! It worked like a charm. My cluid fluid id now crystal clear. I used Valvoline DOT3/4 brake fluid to flush out my clutch cluid (since the clutch uses brake fluid) and the GM synchromesh for the tranny oil.

You should seriously try those two things first before moving onto the clutch/presure plate/flywheel because those are the most cost effective ways to check your car. If those two don't work, then you should move onto the clutch/presure plate/flywheel etc.

 

Hey guys....thanks for all the advise. I pulled the transmission last night, and there was a piece of metal, I assume from the clutch disk, was lodged between the pressure plate and the clutch disk and wouldn't let the clutch disengage. It ground a pretty nasty groove in the pressure plate. Anyways, I got the cm stage 3 and lightened flywheel in, and I'm gonna go ahead and replace the cv axels so I don't have to pull them back out anytime soon. Just for anyone else having the same problems, it would go into gear with the car off...n lunge forward when it started up. I hope the clutch cleared yours up too Grengostarr...and thanks again guys for the help.