ZC will still not start! Help me please!
Ok this is the 2nd day after the swap is finished and I still can't get it working but I am improving. It was throwing code 10 for TA sensor but I discovered 2 plugs were in the wrong spot so I switched them and now NO codes at all. It still will not start though. I went and got new spark plugs, it now fires stronger but will still not start. I thought it was a fuel issue so I was looking at my fuel line from the filter to the rail and it was for a B18A and I noticed it will not work the way I had it. I really need an Si fuel hose and all that stuff for it to work right. So that is my current theory. I know there is a 4WD wagon at the junkyard so I might go tomorrow and rape that of its parts which are D16A6 I believe so if it still has this hose I will be happy. Also I know I filled the oil level too much, by like 1 whole quart and I have not drained it back down to the right level. Does the car somehow know this and is that why it won't start?
about the oil thing . No. try cracking the fuel line at the rail and have somebody crank the car. If fuel sprays out like mad, it might not be your problem. try pulling the number one plug and stuffiing a rag in the hole. crank the car several times and see if there is any gas on the rag. It's shouldn't be soaked but you should be able to tell. otherwise timing maybe? goodluck
Hmmm would timing effect it that much. The dizzy came uninstalled on my engine and I installed it and lined it up using the sort of "dirty" marks left there before. I lined it up with those marks perfect. You think it would effect it that much?
if the motor was turned a little without the dizzy and you just line it up your timing might be way off. It it tries to start I would think that it is the timing. Pull the cover off the cams and get it to TDC. make note of where #1 is at on the cap and remove the cap. look and see where the dizzy is pointing to. It is probably timing. Goodluck
also it's good just to check and make sure it's not timing
also it's good just to check and make sure it's not timing
I think I will go buy a timing light. And yes the engine was turned before I put back on the dist. Should I buy a timing light that has the advance feature, it is like $70, compared to the just "regular" timing light that is like $35. Are they worth the extra money. I think you might be right about timing, that makes a lot of sense. That was one of my worries but I sort of forgot about it.
Cheap timing light figure out the advance yourself. I don't believe you'll be able to even use the timing light until you get it started. What the person above is talking about is checking to make sure the distributor is firing on cylinder 1 at the right time. Take a 19mm socket and turn the crank until the cam arrows are pointing up and the lines line up in the middle of the cams gears. Now look where plug wire 1 goes on the cap, remove the cap and see if the rotor would be sparking right then. The timing gun won't do you much good until you get the car idling.
EDIT: By rights, if your timing belt is setup right and your crank and cam timing are all aligned your engine should be able to start anywhere the distributors movable range. Whether you are at 13 or 19 degrees BTDC you should still be getting some starting action.
EDIT: By rights, if your timing belt is setup right and your crank and cam timing are all aligned your engine should be able to start anywhere the distributors movable range. Whether you are at 13 or 19 degrees BTDC you should still be getting some starting action.
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