I really hate trying to run speaker wire into the doors on civics.....mine is a 98 coupe and it was driving me nuts yesterday...I didnt even get a chance to finish it because I was getting hung up with so many issues

 

You will find that the ludricrisly(sp?) high prices that shops charge are sometimes well worth it.

 

Are you trying to go through the factory route for 'em. It's not too hard if you pull the entire rubber loom thing out from inbetween the door and the cabin. Just pull it out, route your wire, re electro tape the grommets, and pop 'em back in place. I found that the easiest way to get the cabin side grommet back in is through the inner fender well, just pull back the plastic shroud and you can reach right in.

 

yeah thats exactly the area I am talking about...friggin read that you have to drill it out so be able to slide the wire thru....plus I couldnt even figure out how to get the damm thing out to begin with
my old cars were so much easier to run wire in....just pop a coat hanger in there and then pull the wire thru

 

yes it is a bitch and sometimes worth it to have a shop do it.. its all cause of the molex plug.. imagine having to run power door locks, power windows, along w/ window control modulles for an alarm.. thats a lotta work but it can be done w/ time and lots of hard work

 

I have a full write-up on the procedure if you want it, or search around for it. It's a total PITA. Good luck.

 

hey I would love to see a write up on how to do this

 

Here's a copy from another thread that I wrote concerning wiring the doors:

Now, I never put crossovers into the doors. There technically is not a problem with putting them there, but it makes them tough to tune and play with. I mount them either in the trunk or under the front seats. In the trunk makes them fairly accessable, but you must run more wire.

For wire, 16 ga should be acceptable. 16 ga is the largest wire that I was able to pass though the door connector comfortably and not have to worry about creating problems. Others may have done the same operation with 12ga, but trust me you don't need the extra size, and the added risk doesn't make up for any benefit - it's essentally overkill.

Stock wiring for the speakers is about 22 ga, and is far too small for any highpowered application.

Stay away from any of that special twisted wire...it will be near impossible in this application. I have had good success with the Stinger Pro Series wire and the PG QX series wires. The bulky stuff (i.e. PG zero point), while it looks cool just won't work, and is a total pain to strip and cut, etc. Wire is very cheap, so buy PLENTY of extra...it's not cool to learn that your speaker wires are a foot too short after going through all this trouble. Take what you think you will need and add 50%...that's what I do, and the extra $5-10 is worth the extra insurance in the long run.

Ok, here is how you tackle the wire problem in the late model hondas (this is 00 Civic specific, but should cover everything as Honda recycles parts like it's going out of style)

First, open the door, and check things out. You will see a rubber boot and condiuit that runs from the door jamb to the door.

Remove the doorpanel, and peel back the weather coating...if you get any of that white goo on your arms, clothes, etc...expect it to be there for a while. You will see a bundle of wires entering the door protected by a white plastic piece. Remove the plastic piece by taking off the tape and set aside.

Next, remove the tape from the conduit running between the door and the car. You should be able to also remove the rubber portion from the door and the door jamb. You will notice a green plug on the outside, and a whte (I think) on the inside of the door. I may be wrong on the colors, but from here on out, the "green" one is on the outside and the "white" one is on the inside.

Separate the two plugs, and take a look at what you have. If you have no power options, you are happy, as you will have more room to work. The following steps should be performed very carefully, as ifyou mess up, your power options may not work, and it will be not only expensive but a pain to replace.

You will need a drill bit, the same size as one of the 4 wires you will pass though the plug (2 +tive and 2 -tive). Clear out some of the goo that is in the connectors, but not all of it. IF you look carefully, you will see that the plug has many provisions for more connectors. You will use 4 of these provisions as centerlines for the holes you are about to drill. Carefully select 4 matching provisions that are in a square pattern on both sides of the plug (green and white). Carefully drill through each side of the plug. The green plug is the biggest pain...there is a white section that will want to shift when you drill...hold it in place. Once you are done, you should have 4 matching passages to pass the wire though...deburr the holes.

Now, start by passing the pair of wires from the kickpane area through the hole in the door jamb. Give yourself PLENTY of extra wire to work with...a wire coat hanger will work well to pass the wire through. On the amplifier/crossover ends take the time to mark the woofer and tweeter wires, along with the right/left bias. Also mark the wires (using a sharpie) before you pass the wires through...this will save headaches when you go to hook it all up.

Next, pass the wire through the rubber grommet that plugs into the door jamb, then into the rubber conduit, and finally though the rubber sheath that mates to the green plug. Make sure that the wires lay flat and have not twisted.

Next, separate all wires from their matching pair. One at a time pass the single wire through the green plug. Then pass the through the door, and through the matching hole on the white plug.

Now, slowly, draw the two plugs together. Check constantly for any twisting or binding. Plug the harnesses into each other and into the door so that they are all seated properly.

Replace the white cover on the inside of the door, and retape the conduit together. Press the grommet back into the jamb and replace the sheath over the green plug.

Make sure that you leave your self at least 3-4 feet of wire inside the door so that you will have plenty for termination and connection to your drivers. Make sure that the wires are clear of the window tracks.

That should cover it all. IF you have any more questions, post them or email me, and I'll help you out.

 

I just cut the molex connection and "bored" it out to accomodate the new wire, then popped it all back in like factory. It was a PITA but not too, too bad.

I found it is much easier to pull the entire loom piece out and run wire through, rather than trying to feed wire trough while it's still in place. If you go in through the fender well it isn't too tough to get it back in place.